Continuing Issues with Fuzz Face Clone

[Phend]

Looks like a simple enough circuit,  hate to say but take it completely apart and start over and measure the new resistors before putting them in. Don't heat the transistors to much, be quick or use a clip on heat sink. Double check all grounds including the input output jacks.

[SightsSetStudios]

I'll check my resistances when I get home  this is the third board I've built with issues, so it almost seems like a circuit issue, though no one else seems to have it.

[aron]

I would just hand wire it on perfboard. Check out this old article I made:
https://www.diystompboxes.com/wpress/?p=8

[SightsSetStudios]

Still no luck

[SightsSetStudios]

I'll pull it apart and check all my values.

[Phend]

Have you shown the actual circuit drawing you are using?

[duck_arse]

please observe the following image:



those green lines point to what appears to be whiskers of copper, from one of your imgurs. check resistance as shown, please.

also, as Phend sez, circuit diagram you are working from, please. also, whose board design/layout is that, is it one you etched yourself? what documentation are you working from? details, details.

have you built this three times on the same board each time, or the same design but different instances of that board?

[Slowpoke101]

The board appears to be a CNC milled type, which can have tiny shards of copper all over the place. It can be hard to tell if there is a short so testing may be the only way.

From the last batch of voltage measurements there does appear to be a short between the base and collector of Q1 or the transistor is faulty.
I also note that the last picture posted of the component side shows that the 1N4001 protection diode is installed the wrong way around.

[duck_arse]

The board appears to be a CNC milled type, which can have tiny shards of copper all over the place. It can be hard to tell if there is a short so testing may be the only way.

as I often say, "interesting". my take on the board was that there are some areas which appear under-resisted, as opposed to over-etched. some areas of copper are missing in very narrow runs, but the board doesn't look over-etched. to me, anyway.

[SightsSetStudios]

I thought I posted the schematic in my original post, but here it is regardless: Clone https://imgur.com/gallery/V247sbr

The diode was originally the other direction, as the layout I followed showed, but it was engaging and not allowing signal to pass. When I flipped it I was able to get signal.

The board was milled by me. I cleaned the cuts with a probe, but I suppose there could be some strands I didn't catch. I'll check when I get home from work.

[duck_arse]

I thought I posted the schematic .......... as the layout I followed showed ,,,,

you have posted a layout. we wanted a circuit diagram.



is this the current state of the board? because ....

The diode was originally the other direction, as the layout I followed showed, but it was engaging and not allowing signal to pass. When I flipped it I was able to get signal.

the diode in your shown layout, and your PN2222 shown built version, is a reverse-shunt type, for negative ground. if you have reversed that diode, as in that pic above, then, either, it is forward biased and conducting all your supply to ground, or, you've wired the supply backwards, as for positive ground, as for pnp transistors.

[SightsSetStudios]

Ah, I don't have a circuit diagram, just the layout, sorry. It was 2n222s at first, but then I swapped in bc108s.

[Slowpoke101]

I can see where some confusion may be occurring.

2N222 transistors are (were ) Germanium PNP types....I admit that I thought that you were meaning 2N2222 Silicon NPN.
This particular circuit layout is for Silicon NPN transistors. It can be modified to use PNP types but why bother.

The direction that you have the 1N4001 diode installed is one of the modifications for PNP and POSITIVE ground. Is there any chance that you can upload some pictures of your wiring too?

[SightsSetStudios]

Wiring https://imgur.com/gallery/3y1mkmv

[Slowpoke101]

Thank you for the picture. Now for some other silly questions based on what can be seen.

You appear to be using an external power source. Do you know its polarity? The way that you have wired the DC connector appears to be for a "tip centre positive" supply. Usually pedals use a 'defacto' standard of "tip centre negative" - but it pays to always check.

The other wiring that I can see appears OK.

So, check polarity of the power supply. If it is "tip centre negative" then swap over the wires on the pedal's DC connector and reverse the 1N4001 diode to what is shown on the layout diagrams. Now also based on the voltage readings of Q1 - replace it. If Q1's emitter goes to ground, which it does, then there is no way that it can have over 3 Volts on its base and be working. It really can't have over 0.7 Volts on it.

[SightsSetStudios]

The supply shows +8.9v when the positive probe os in the centre and the negative is on the outside of the barrel.

[Slowpoke101]

If you place your meter's test probes onto the DC socket's terminals (red probe to red wire terminal, black probe to black wire terminal ) does your meter read +8.9V DC?

[SightsSetStudios]

It does, yes.

[Slowpoke101]

OK. No polarity mismatch there.

Now, leaving the meter's black (negative ) probe attached to the DC socket's negative terminal (the one that has the black wire soldered to it ). Apply power and remeasure the voltages on both of the transistors and the 1N4001 diode (both leads ) please.

I do apologise for my rather simplistic instructions. I'm just trying to make certain that there is no ambiguity which may lead to errors.

[SightsSetStudios]

I definitely appreciate it. I'm obviously missing something here, so this is the best way to find it.

The diode is 0v on the ground side and 9v on the hot side.

Q1: C -  3.932v
       B -   4.517v
       E -   3.928v

Q2: C -  5.112v
       B -  4.511v
       E -  .869v