Aion Azimuth - pass thru and LED. nothing when engaged.

[broomhandle]

Awesome..

I do not know how to test if the switch is bad. As for the board. I bought it from Aion.

https://aionelectronics.com/project/azimuth-hermida-zendrive-overdrive/

[Marcos - Munky]

Ok, I've checked the documentation, and you did put the switch in the correct orientation. Post a photo of your multimeter so I can tell you how to test the switch using it.

[broomhandle]

Cool.

[Marcos - Munky]

Ok, both the diode and continuity tests are in the same place. Right above the word "on", there's a diode symbol. You will use this setting for the next 2 testings. It doesn't really matter if there's a cable inserted on the jacks or if the pedal is powered.

1) let's test the diodes. Using the diode/continuity mode, check D2, D3 and D4, and also check Q1 and Q2. For the diodes, put the black probe on one side and the red on the other, check the value that shows on your multimeter, then reverse the probes and check again the new value. For Q1 and Q2, you won't check the middle pin but will check the other two pins. Do the same thing, put the probes and check the value, then reverse the probe and check the value again. Let me know the values.

2) let's test the switch. For this, we need to give a "name" to each pin. Let's just use those "names":
1 - 2 - 3
4 - 5 - 6
7 - 8 - 9
Using the same setting on your multimeter, put any probe on pin 4. Put the other probe on pin 1, then on pin 7. You will hear a beep when you check pin 4 and one of the other two pins. Write which combination gave you the beep. Then put one probe on pin 5 and check pins 2 and 8 with the other probe, one of them will beep. Then put one probe on pin 6 and check pins 3 and 9. Basically, you'll put one probe on the pin in the middle row and check the pin above and below it.
Then press the switch and check all the pins again, using this same method of putting the probe on the middle pin and checking the pin above and the pin below.
Let me know the results.

[broomhandle]

Results:

1.)

D2 = 365
D3 = 276
D4 = 368

2.)

for the switch, I could not get an accurate reading. I thought maybe it can not get a good connection.

for pins 1 and 3. I could not get anything.

for pins 7 and 9. the meter would jump up with a reading and go down to 1.

I am unsure about the results for the switch.

the switch is from Mammoth and I have had good luck with them on all my builds.

[Marcos - Munky]

Results:

1.)

D2 = 365
D3 = 276
D4 = 368

What about Q1 and Q2? And with the probes swapped? I need both results to know if your diodes and mosfets are good.

2.)

for pins 1 and 3. I could not get anything.

for pins 7 and 9. the meter would jump up with a reading and go down to 1.

For the switch, I need the results with both the pedal in bypass mode and engaged. Pins 2, 5 and 8 are related to the led, so you don't have to check them. With a probe on pin 4, check pins 1 and 7. With a probe on pin 6, check pins 3 and 9.

Also, check pins 1 and 9. It doesn't matter if the switch is in bypass or engaged for this one.

A reading of 1 means the resistance between the probes is too big for the setting you're using. This is normal and I was expecting to get this reading. By "could not get anything", do you mean the display shows zero?

[broomhandle]

Sorry I forgot to type q1 and 2.

Q1 = 655 , Q2 = 655

bypass plugged in:

1 = 1
3 = 1
7 = 001
9 = 001

engaged:

1 = 001
3 = 001
7 = 1
9 = 1

and when I mean does nothing. 1.

[Marcos - Munky]

Ok, on your switch, everything is ok. 1 means "very high resistance/no connection" and 001 means "directly connected".

On bypass, we already know your switch is working, because you have the clean sound. Indeed, you can see that pin 4 (pcb in) is connected to pin 7 (ground), and pin 6 (out jack) is connected to pin 9 (input jack).

With the effect engaged, pin 4 (pcb in) is connected to pin 1 (input jack). We already knew this, because when you did the audio probe test the guitar signal was reaching the circuit. The most important thing is we confirmed that pin 6 (output jack) is connected to pin 3 (pcb out).

So far, we know you have sound out of lug 2 of the volume pot. Now, we confirmed the switch is indeed connecting the "pcb out" pad to the output jack. That means the problem is the wire that connects the pad "out" from the main board to the pad "pcb out" of the switch pad, because that's the only thing between the output of the circuit (volume pot, where you already know you have sound) and the switch (which now you know it's working).

Replace that wire, be sure you have good solder joints, and you should get sound out of the output jack with the effect engaged. Let me know if this works, and also test again all the pots when you have sound with the effect engaged and can indeed play the guitar (instead of just hit the guitar like when you did the audio probe test).

Now, for the diodes and Q1 and Q2, I still need the other measures, with the probes swapped, to be sure they're working. Even if the measure is zero. Well, if the gain pot is indeed working, we'll know the diodes are working...

[broomhandle]

You are saying to replace this wire? If so, ok.. it looks good. but ok.




and for the other tests, what do you mean by probes?

"Now, for the diodes and Q1 and Q2, I still need the other measures, with the probes swapped, to be sure they're working. Even if the measure is zero. Well, if the gain pot is indeed working, we'll know the diodes are working..."

[Marcos - Munky]

You are saying to replace this wire? If so, ok.. it looks good. but ok.

Yep. If the pedal when engaged is dead quiet, it's because somethig is cutting the signal. This is the only thing between the volume pot, which we know have sound, and the switch, which we know it's working.

and for the other tests, what do you mean by probes?

This:

1) let's test the diodes. Using the diode/continuity mode, check D2, D3 and D4, and also check Q1 and Q2. For the diodes, put the black probe on one side and the red on the other, check the value that shows on your multimeter, then reverse the probes and check again the new value. For Q1 and Q2, you won't check the middle pin but will check the other two pins. Do the same thing, put the probes and check the value, then reverse the probe and check the value again. Let me know the values.

[broomhandle]

Wire replaced. No go. no sound engaged.

I recaptured values.

D1 = -587
D2 = 364
DS = 272
D4 = 366

Q1 = 649
Q1 = 649

I don't get it...

[Marcos - Munky]

Wire replaced. No go. no sound engaged.

The only things between the last working point (volume pot lug 2) and the output jack is the switch and that wire. Solder that wire directly to the output jack and check if there's sound.

For the diodes reading, you're just posting the same reading and missing the other one. Like I said, I need the reading with the black probe on one leg of the diode and the red probe on the other leg, then you swap black and red probes and do the reading again. That makes two readings for each diode and transistor. And D1 is just for reverse power supply protection, you don't need to measure it.

[broomhandle]

the measurements for d2,23,d4,q1 and q2 all equal (1)

as for the wire, can I just use a jumper wire and leave that wire soldered? it was kinda a pain to replace...

sorry this is a mess.. I am just at a loss...

[Marcos - Munky]

For the wire, I'd remove it. But you can try a jumper before removing it.

For the diode measures, you can't have them all equal on both ways. The best way to measure a diode is off the board, because other parts can interfer on the measurements, and on the zen drive they indeed interfeer, but the measure one way is different from the measure the other way. I just checked my zen drive and confirmed that. What exactly are you doing to get those values?

Anyway, the best idea is to get sound out of the output jack firstly. Maybe it's fully working but you coudn't notice it because you weren't really playing while doing the audio probe.

[broomhandle]

so I tried a jumper wire "alligator clips" on out pos and out from the board and nothing. (If I did that correct)

attached are photos of how I got the measurements.

Red on pos (1):




Black on pos (reading):




nothing touching (1):





I am at a total loss. I really have no idea what to do next...

[Slowpoke101]

You have proven that the particular diode that you tested is OK.
Now do the same test for the other blue coloured diode and the germanium diode.
You should see similar results.

[Marcos - Munky]

the measurements for d2,23,d4,q1 and q2 all equal (1)

Now I understood what you were saying. They are all equal to 1, not all equal to each other. Language barrier works against us sometimes. The results are still way different than mine, but it could be the multitester. Anyway.

so I tried a jumper wire "alligator clips" on out pos and out from the board and nothing. (If I did that correct)

Then the problem is somewhere between volume lug 2 and the output from the main board. Using this same alligator clip jumper, put one alligator clip on volume pot lug 2 and the other one on those places:
-directly to output jack sleeve.
-output pad on the switch board.
-output pad on the main board.
Be sure to have volume pot turned to about middle of the rotation and check if you get sound out of the pedal with the alligator clip connected to those places.

[broomhandle]

So...

I did the jump cable from Vol pot lug 2...

1.) the out jack: SOUND!!!!!  it is a higher volume. and the volume knob does not do anything.

2.) out main board: no sound

3.) out switch board: I selected the switch unless you wanted the out jack: no sound.


I also worked on the DS-1, I will start a new thread....
https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=124235.0

[Marcos - Munky]

So, something is very wrong here.

1.) the out jack: SOUND!!!!!  it is a higher volume. and the volume knob does not do anything.

It was expected to be sound in this point. But the lug 2 is the output of the volume pot, so it should work. You indeed have a big volume boost with the pot not working if you get the output from lug 3, which is located before the volume pot. Are you sure you used the correct lug?

2.) out main board: no sound

If you indeed checked lug 2, you should have sound on this point, or else you have a broken trace here.

If you by mistake checked lug 3, you should have sound on this point if the volume isn't setted to zero.

So here what should you do now:
1) repeat the test 1 again. One alligator clip directly to the output jack, the other one to lug 2 of the volume pot. Check if the pot changes the volume. If it doesn't, move the alligator clip from lug 2 to lug 3 and check if the pot changes the volume.
2) with your multitester on continuity mode, press the switch so the effect is engaged. You don't need to connect any cables or even keep the power supply, as long as the effect is on. Check the continuity between those points:
-volume pot lug 2 and main board output;
-volume pot lug 2 and switch board effect out;
-volume pot lug 2 and output jack;
-main board out and switch board effect out;
-main board out and output jack;
-switch board effect out and output jack.

Those readings should tell us a lot of what's happening here.

[broomhandle]

I am testing the "Middle" lug if we are calling that "2". Is that correct? and testing the vol pot or voice?