Flying Pan Troubleshooting

[seten]

I built a flying pan clone from a byoc pcb and the pan isnt working at all and the phaser sounds like a wah stuck at half %^&*.

Thinking Q6 and Q7 are the issue. D pins are weird and I'm using 2n5485 in place of 2n5952 - guessing I need a different replacement.

Schematics on the last few pages.
http://byocelectronics.com/soaringskilletinstructions.pdf


resistance between LDR's 100k
r22 700k

IC

One:
1- 4V
2- 7V
3- 7V
4- 0V
5- 3.7V - 4.9V (discrete?)
6- 3.9V - 4.9V (continuous)
7- 0.64V - 8.1V (I think discrete?)
8- 8.7V

Two:
1- 8V
2- 7.04V
3- 6.97V
4- 0v
5- 6.97V
6- 7.04V
7- 6.1V
8- 8.7V

Three:
1- 6V
2- 7.04V
3- 6.97V
4- 0V
5- 6.97V
6- 7.04V
7- 8V
8- 8.7V

Four:
1- 8V
2- 6.6V
3- 6.7V
4- 0V
5- 5V
6- 5V
7- 4.6-5.6V (continuous)
8- 8.7V

Five:
1- 0.6-8.1V (discrete?)
2- 4.7-5.2V (continuous)
3- 4.7-5.1V (discrete?)
4- 0V
5- 4.7-5.2V (continuous)
6- 4.7-5.2V (continuous)
7- 4.5-5.4V (continuous)
8- 8.7V

Q1
C- 8.7
B- 3.7-4.9 (continuous)
E- 3.2 - 4.3 (continuous)

Q2
C- 0.6
B- 0.6
E- 0

Q3
C- 0.45-0.5 (continuous)
B- 0.9-1 (co ntinuous)
E- 0.45-0.5 (continuous)

Q4
C- 0.45-0.5 (continuous)
B- 0.45-0.5 (continuous
E- 0

Q5
C- 8.7
B- 5.8
E- 5.2

Q6
D- jumps up a little (1.3v?) then falls back down to 0 (this might be an issue it didnt follow very consistent behaviour)
S- 5
G- 3.3-3.7

Q7
D- Same as Q6 D
S- 5v
G- 2.67-2.72 (continuous)

Q8
C- 4.2
B- 1.3
E- 0.68

Q9
C- 4.2
B- 1.3
E- 0.68

[Slowpoke101]

You don't seem to have a stable Vref rail (4.5V DC ). It would help to have it.
Check out R37 and R38 (both 30K ). These guys form the voltage divider that produces the 4.5V DC.

[duck_arse]

if you are replacing the 2n5952 end-gate package with the 2n5485 opposite end-gate, you will need to rotate it/them 180^o.

[seten]

You don't seem to have a stable Vref rail (4.5V DC ). It would help to have it.
Check out R37 and R38 (both 30K ). These guys form the voltage divider that produces the 4.5V DC.

Seems to be working fine. I've got 4.35v on the LDR's as well as between r37 and 38.

if you are replacing the 2n5952 end-gate package with the 2n5485 opposite end-gate, you will need to rotate it/them 180^o.

I flipped them, now Im getting no signal but

q6
d- 5
s- 5
g- 3.3-3.7


q7
d- 5
s- 5
g- 2.2-2.6

[seten]

I've got panning now - I think it was flipping the 2N5485 was all I needed and then I just had to adjust the trimmers. phase is still stuck.

Heres all the new voltages in the phase circuit.

OC2
+ - 8.7v
-  - 7.2v

OC1
+ - 7.2v
-  - 0.45-0.50v (continuous, speeds up w/ phase rate)


IC1

1- 4.35
2- 4.35
3- 4.35
4- 0
5- 3.7-4.9 (its continuous at fast speeds but with phase rate all the way down it just jumps back and forth from 3.7 and 4.9).
6- 3.8-4.9
7- 0.6-8.1 (discrete slow, continuous fast)
8- 8.7

IC2
1- 4.36
2- 4.35
3- 4.31
4- 0
5- 4.31
6- 4.36
7- 4.34
8- 8.7

IC3
1- 4.34
2- 4.36
3- 4.31
4- 0
5- 4.31
6- 4.36
7- 4.38
8- 8.7

IC4
1- 4.38
2- 4.37
3- 4.16
4- 0
5- 0
6- 5
7- 4.7-5.5 (continuous)
8- 8.7

Q1-
C- 8.7
B- 3.9-4.8
E- 3.4-4.2

Q2
C-0.6
B- 0.6
E- 0

Q3
C-0.46-0.5
B- 0.93-1
E- 0.46-0.5

Q4
C- 0.46-0.5
B- 0.46-0.5
E- 0

[seten]

Still very stuck   

[duck_arse]

is your C11 a tantalum? is it backwards?

Q2 puzzles me. what is the range of voltages at the base of Q2 as you adjust VR3 from end to end? is that circuit section drawn right? [page 41]

[seten]

is your C11 a tantalum? is it backwards?

Q2 puzzles me. what is the range of voltages at the base of Q2 as you adjust VR3 from end to end? is that circuit section drawn right? [page 41]

I had two electrolytic caps in parallel because I couldnt find a 15uf - just now replaced it with a single 10uf to make sure i hadnt twisted up the leads. Positive to phase rate wiper and negative to ground. (will that 10uf be close enough or should I add another 4.7uf in parallel again?)



Fully CCW:

C- 2.21V
B- 0.52V
E- 0V

Midway:

C- 0.8V
B- 0.6V
E- 0V

Fully CW:

C- 0.6
B- 0.6
E- 0

[seten]

I think I got it - the optocouplers are always at 100k resistance (Give or take) while the - pin of OC1 is fluctuating (listed the voltage ranges below, depending on the position of the 2 trimmers. I'm guessing the LED's in the optos are burnt out, I'm going to take them out of the circuit to test them but before I do (I'm not great at desoldering) I wanna get confirmation thats the (or at least an) issue. Also, to test them I should be safe putting 9v across them with a 5k resistor in series?

0.519-0.544
0.365-0.399
0.448-0.506
0.605-0.607

[seten]

OOOOkay after a month break finally decided to get back in there. Pulled out the optocouplers and definitely have an issue there. I guess I'll just contact BYOC (they make the dual element optos themselves) but before I do I wanted to see if I'm missing something or if theres any way I could have messed them up myself before I go asking them for replacements.

One opto (I think was in OC1) works, but only if the LED leads are flipped. The second opto does not work at all. I tested them by testing the resistance between the middle LDR lead and either of the other ends and putting 9v across the LED side in series with an 8k resistor.

Also found a strange thing when I went to check the resistance across the now empty LDR slots. Checked the resistors first, all four were indeed 100k. Then went to OC1 slot and one side was 100k but the other was ~85k. same exact situation on OC2 slot. Back to the resistors, two were 85k and the other two were 100k. Flipped the board around, all four were 100k. Kept going and getting some variation of those. Any ideas whats going on there and if I should be worried?

[duck_arse]

what markings are on the optos - how are you decoding them?

if you get no change in the ldr resistance readings, they should be stuck way high, when you juice-up the led, either direction, then yes, they [led] gorn. but, now they are ded, you can open them [!!CAREFULLY!!] and frankenvac the ldr's w/ a led of your choosing.

the resistor values are not meaningful while mounted on the board. you need to lift one end so you are measuring ONLY that resistor, and not the network in parallel with.

[seten]

what markings are on the optos - how are you decoding them?

if you get no change in the ldr resistance readings, they should be stuck way high, when you juice-up the led, either direction, then yes, they [led] gorn. but, now they are ded, you can open them [!!CAREFULLY!!] and frankenvac the ldr's w/ a led of your choosing.

the resistor values are not meaningful while mounted on the board. you need to lift one end so you are measuring ONLY that resistor, and not the network in parallel with.

One side has three leads and the other has two, so the triple side is a pair of ldrs sharing the middle lead and the other side is the led. theres a white dot marking the positive led (which in my case on the working opto is actually the negative leg), though since theres three leads on one side and two on the other I couldnt have put them on the board wrong if i tried.

Unless im reading the schem wrong theres nothing in parallel with those resistors except the ldrs which are out of the board - thats not what im hung up on though, im confused because sometimes i get 100k and sometimes i get 85k probing the same place (and/or two different places that are continuous, the leg of the resistor itself and the empty ldr slot its connected to) Guessing theres just something getting jostled around and yall would have to inspect my board to help - doesnt seem like a big deal either way.