Noob feeling like an idiot - could use some assistance...

[EBK]

The problem could be an underpowered soldering iron.  I've said before that I believe you can do more damage with an iron that is too cold than you can with an iron that is too hot (Paul's gigantic anti-tank soldering iron* aside). It is very easy to destroy a switch by taking too long to solder it.

*https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106552.msg964456#msg964456

[Grendel2000]

It's good to wet the iron tip with a little solder before each joint.  That helps the heat transfer from iron to lug, more surface area contact.  If your iron is too hot, it will repel solder and probably oxidize the tip.  If it is too cool, you won't be able to make the joint quickly enough, and the plastic stuff around the lug will melt as you've seen.  If your lugs are leaning over in the melted plastic, the switch is probably ruined, sorry to say.

I'd been setting mine to 325 but recently the solder won't stick to the tip anymore.  Is there any way to bring it back to a point where it will or do I need a new tip?

Also, I'm using a cheap iron currently (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01712N5C4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1).  Is there one in the ~$50 range that would be a better long term option?

[bluebunny]

If you're using a pointy tip like in the picture, then that's your problem: you can't transfer heat efficiently through a point.  You want one that looks more like this:



The flat edge will allow you to get that heat quickly to the joint so that you can be in and out without cooking anything.

[Grendel2000]

If you're using a pointy tip like in the picture, then that's your problem: you can't transfer heat efficiently through a point.  You want one that looks more like this:



The flat edge will allow you to get that heat quickly to the joint so that you can be in and out without cooking anything.

Well ok then - I'll change tips.  Thanks!

In the meantime how do I know if I've killed my foot switch without just wiring the whole thing up and seeing it doesn't work?

And how do I ensure my tip will take a coating of solder and keep taking it without dorking it up over time?

[bluebunny]

Test the switch with a DMM.  No need to inflict further unnecessary heat if it's already toast.

Keep the tip tinned.  Don't try to clean it with anything abrasive.

[anotherjim]

Fixing a tip can be done.
The first iron I got had a plain copper bit. My dad got some tinsmiths flux (corrosive acid concoction) and an old tobacco tin and soldered the iron tip itself to the inside of the tin. When it stuck, he pulled it off and the bit had a real tin coating! Myself, I've fixed modern tips by filing them clean and flowing fresh solder with ordinary rosin flux. It doesn't last as long as the original coating though.
I've been using pointy tips for years now. Usually on 350c but if there's a big lump of metal to solder (like back of a pot), I jack it up to 400c. I never leave the iron running all the time. It soon heats up when needed and I'm religious about cleaning the tip. I use the supplied sponge I keep wet. My tips last around 3 years or so.

[ElectricDruid]

The problem could be an underpowered soldering iron.  I've said before that I believe you can do more damage with an iron that is too cold than you can with an iron that is too hot (Paul's gigantic anti-tank soldering iron* aside). It is very easy to destroy a switch by taking too long to solder it.

*https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106552.msg964456#msg964456

+1 agree with Eric on this - 'too cool' is much worse than 'too hot'.

[Grendel2000]

The problem could be an underpowered soldering iron.  I've said before that I believe you can do more damage with an iron that is too cold than you can with an iron that is too hot (Paul's gigantic anti-tank soldering iron* aside). It is very easy to destroy a switch by taking too long to solder it.

*https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106552.msg964456#msg964456

+1 agree with Eric on this - 'too cool' is much worse than 'too hot'.

I must be doing something horribly wrong.  I put a fresh tip on less than a week ago to start this project.  Tried to "coat the tip" with little obvious result.  The blob of solder seems to just sit on the surface rather that coat or spread - or it just slides off.

I try wiping it frequently but I'm not sure why I'm doing this? Isn't that wiping off the coating I notionally put and want on?

As of yesterday the tip is no longer shiny - it looks dark gray and rougher.  It won't take any solder on it - nothing sticks. 

Clearly I'm missing some of the basics.

[Grendel2000]

Test the switch with a DMM.  No need to inflict further unnecessary heat if it's already toast.

Keep the tip tinned.  Don't try to clean it with anything abrasive.

What am I testing for exactly?  Between which points/lugs?  I'm clueless about the inner workings of the switch.

Sorry - I'm such a noob.  Ugh.

[jfrabat]

Test the switch with a DMM.  No need to inflict further unnecessary heat if it's already toast.

Keep the tip tinned.  Don't try to clean it with anything abrasive.

What am I testing for exactly?  Between which points/lugs?  I'm clueless about the inner workings of the switch.

Sorry - I'm such a noob.  Ugh.

For starters, try testing for continuity.  Put one side of the voltmeter in the middle row.  With the other, try the bottom or top row.  One should have continuity.  Press the stompswitch.  Now the other side should have continuity.  Do this for all 3 rows.  Remember the contacts should be horizontal, not vertical when testing (so that you get an up/down orientation correct).

And don't feel bad about asking.  If we can, we will help you get this done (I already saw your solder, and you are starting WAAAAAYYY ahead of where I started).  I am still learning from the guys here, but they have all been extremely helpful always!

[Grendel2000]

Test the switch with a DMM.  No need to inflict further unnecessary heat if it's already toast.

Keep the tip tinned.  Don't try to clean it with anything abrasive.

What am I testing for exactly?  Between which points/lugs?  I'm clueless about the inner workings of the switch.

Sorry - I'm such a noob.  Ugh.

For starters, try testing for continuity.  Put one side of the voltmeter in the middle row.  With the other, try the bottom or top row.  One should have continuity.  Press the stompswitch.  Now the other side should have continuity.  Do this for all 3 rows.  Remember the contacts should be horizontal, not vertical when testing (so that you get an up/down orientation correct).

And don't feel bad about asking.  If we can, we will help you get this done (I already saw your solder, and you are starting WAAAAAYYY ahead of where I started).  I am still learning from the guys here, but they have all been extremely helpful always!

Thanks for your help!

As for the solder - I can generally follow instructions reasonably well and I found a great video tutorial for that.  But MAN!  The unknown-unknowns are killing me here...

[Grendel2000]

Continuity checks good - thanks for your help!  Looks like I didn't kill the switch (yet)!

[anotherjim]

Sometimes, cheap flux-cored solder contains a variable amount of flux - from zero to normal along its length. Could explain why the iron won't carry it well. To wet the bit, you could use a more active flux like plumbers use, but you must clean/neutralise it thoroughly before going anywhere near circuits.

[PRR]

I have often used a wet paper towel. The steam gets under the oxide-crud and lifts it.

Wiping a tinned tip will remove excess solder but not the protective layer.

[willienillie]

I have often used a wet paper towel.

I always use a damp paper towel.  Wet with water then squeeze out the excess, too wet will cool the tip too much.  Use good quality paper towels, white with no printing.

[Grendel2000]

New (hopefully easy!) question: I'm making progress but I'm having a hard time with soldering the wires into the pads marked "M1" and "9v" without the solder spreading so much that they connect. 

I THINK it looks like those pads are both on the same trace/path so it shouldn't matter.  Is that correct? 

Also, I'm clueless as to how I might be able to do incremental testing before I'm done to see if my work is correct.  Any suggestions on tutorials showing how I can employ my multimeter to do some testing of the parts before I just plug it in and pray?

Thanks!

[patrick398]

Yes it looks like those two pads are linked so don't worry too much about a bridge there, as long as you don't have a big blob of solder covering both, blobby joints are bad joints.
As for testing gradually you can't really. Having said that itself always a good idea to test the board before connecting the off-board stuff. I usually add wires to the in, out, 9v and ground and hook them up to my breadboard where power and audio jacks are connected so I can test the board before wiring. Then the board can be soldered to all the off-board stuff inside the enclosure to keep it neat

[Grendel2000]

Yes it looks like those two pads are linked so don't worry too much about a bridge there, as long as you don't have a big blob of solder covering both, blobby joints are bad joints.
As for testing gradually you can't really. Having said that itself always a good idea to test the board before connecting the off-board stuff. I usually add wires to the in, out, 9v and ground and hook them up to my breadboard where power and audio jacks are connected so I can test the board before wiring. Then the board can be soldered to all the off-board stuff inside the enclosure to keep it neat

Thanks!  No blobby joints - I'll cross my fingers I guess.

[Grendel2000]

Ok.

I completed assembly and I've started testing to see if it works (spoiler: NO)...

The pedal does not appear to power up.  I initially thought it might have been a bad joint at the spots marked M1 or 9V but I desoldered each of those as well as checking all three joints at the power jack lugs and the center lug (SLEEVE) of the input but I still don't get any indication of power being on.

I'm not sure where else to start for additional troubleshooting.

Any suggestions?

Also, are there only certain points that need to be correct to get power on the pedal or must EVERY pad be working (i.e. even the ones that are just about the audio path)?  I only ask to wonder if there are areas I can focus on to troubleshoot more effectively or do I need to essentially check every single thing?

EDIT:
Another question: I assume the components that are lighter and pictured at C6 and D3 are optional.  I have nothing in those spots.  If correct and those are optional for derivative versions of the pedal, do I need to jumper anything in lieu of the skipped components?

[bluebunny]

Check out the sticky "Debugging" thread.  It will basically ask for voltage readings from each leg of your active components (two transistors in your case) and your power supply.  And some pictures of what you've actually built - top and bottom of PCB please.