Removing Solder from PCB Holes

[mkel2010]

I put the wrong component in the wrong place on a PCB. I've been able to remove the wrong component but can't get the last little bit of solder in the holes that's preventing me from installing the correct component. Any tricks or suggestions on getting that last bit of solder out?

I have a solder pump and solder wick, neither seems to work.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Mark

[Phend]

Now this might sound rediculious,   how about using a compressed can of air, with tube, for dusting to blow solder away (depending on quantity and location). Wear safety glasses. Experiment . Do not this if you think it is stupid. I have not tried this so be careful.

[PRR]

Drill it. (You should own some super skinny drills.)

Heat it red hot and bang it on the floor. (Probably poisons the dog and ruins the PCB but it feels good.)

Bring it just to the melting point and push a cold steel needle through the hole.

[Marcos - Munky]

I used to melt the solder then blow as strong as I can to remove the solder.

As Paul suggested, you can drill it if you have a small drill bit.

Or, since you have a solder pump, add more solder to the hole (yeah). The added solder will melt with the solter that's already in the hole, forming a bigger blob of melter solder, which is easier to be removed by the solder pump that just a little bit of solder is.

[davent]

 After heating the hole and solder, compressed air, a stainless steel dental pick, a toothpick, anything small enough that will go through the hole not melt or solder in place when the solder cools.
dave

[Phend]

PRR missed this one..

[Rob Strand]

If it's only a small number of holes sometimes you can just push the part in while heating that hole.    Adding a tad of solder.
With some care you will often do less damage than trying to clear the holes.

[EBK]

+1 for Dave's dental pick idea.  Quick and easy, with minimal risk of heat damage.

[willienillie]

Is your solder pump working well?  They seem to require a lot of maintenance, regular cleaning out, lubing the o-rings.  I stick mine on my palm and release it, if the plunger doesn't go all the way up, it's good to go.

Plated through hole or simple single sided PCB?  Sometimes the best approach is to heat one side with the iron, with the solder sucker on the other side.

I hate desoldering wick, can barely get it to work at all.

[mkel2010]

Is your solder pump working well?  They seem to require a lot of maintenance, regular cleaning out, lubing the o-rings.  I stick mine on my palm and release it, if the plunger doesn't go all the way up, it's good to go.

Plated through hole or simple single sided PCB?  Sometimes the best approach is to heat one side with the iron, with the solder sucker on the other side.

I hate desoldering wick, can barely get it to work at all.

The soldering pump is brand new and does create enough suction to latch onto my finger when I tried it. The holes are plated through holes from an Aion Electronics PCB. The pump on one side and the soldering iron on the other is something I hadn't considered.

[mkel2010]

Now this might sound rediculious,   how about using a compressed can of air, with tube, for dusting to blow solder away (depending on quantity and location). Wear safety glasses. Experiment . Do not this if you think it is stupid. I have not tried this so be careful.

For the amount of solder that is left (only inside the hole) your idea doesn't seem to be a bad one. I have plenty of compressed air handy so I may give it a try. Since I burned a finger pretty good trying to get the component out, I will definitely be as safe as possible.   

[mkel2010]

Thank you for all the suggestions. I should now have enough ideas to help make some progress.

[DrAlx]

Been doing a LOT of this recently with plated through holes.
I get a small sewing needle and have it pushing into the hole from the bottom of the board while heating the pad on the top of the board, and wiggling the needle through the hole. Wiggling helps stop the needle getting soldered in.

It's a sort of balancing act, with table on bottom, then pointing-up needle (have needle locked in a vice or pushed into an eraser or something), then board pushing down on the needle (wiggle the board rather than the needle while heating the top pad).

[bluebunny]

+1 for the cocktail stick.

[Ice-9]

Fill the hole with new solder then de-solder again with the de-solder pump.

[amz-fx]

I keep a box of toothpicks on a shelf next to my work bench. They have a variety of uses, including freeing holes of unwanted solder. Works better than a wire or needle since the solder will not stick to them, and there is not enough heat mass in a small hole to set them on fire.

If you drill the hole, you will run a substantial risk of ruining the pad (either top or bottom). I have a Dremel press with tiny bits, and have about a 50% success rate with drilling out pads. (Maybe in part to my declining vision). 

Best regards, Jack

[amptramp]

I have circular section toothpicks that taper on both ends.  Solder does not stick to them and you can buy a plastic can of 100 of them the size of a large pill bottle at the dollar store.  I have given up on solder wick although it does make great braid for grounding.  I used to work with technicians who could use solder wick without leaving any parts that were not soldered but somehow this never worked from me.  I have a solder pump and it works for some things but not others.

[MikeA]

+1 on toothpicks, and if you can find bamboo ones rather than wood, they have a finer point and hold up to pressure better.

[mozz]

As was said, add more solder then use the pump. I use solderwick and it works great, you need to buy the expensive kind as the cheap stuff is useless. I hope you are not using that leadfree crap.

[R.G.]

Davent's got it: wooden toothpicks. I keep a box of the round ones on the work bench. They work GREAT for this, when nothing else will. I've quit trying to suck, blow, bang, or siphon holes open. One box is years of workbench stock.