Battery and Wart power

[savethewhales]

yes it totally makes sense... and that's why you have to chose to either
1. not use a TRS plug
2. not use a stereo jack, in other words power is still connected.

Ok.. I thought, as the example 5 says, that using a Stereo 6.3 Jack on the input would work with this diagram..

So, how can I make it work with a Stereo 6.3 mm Jack? Because I only have 2 6.3mm : one stereo and one mono, and I would like to use these..

Thanks in advance.

[bluebunny]

Your stereo jack is the input and the mono jack is the output.

Are you confusing "jack" with "plug"?  The plugs (on the ends of your leads) are always mono.  The mono plug inserted into the stereo input jack shorts ring and sleeve, thereby completing the battery circuit and supplying power to your pedal.  With no plug inserted, the battery is open-circuit (and doesn't drain).

[savethewhales]

Your stereo jack is the input and the mono jack is the output.

Are you confusing "jack" with "plug"?  The plugs (on the ends of your leads) are always mono.  The mono plug inserted into the stereo input jack shorts ring and sleeve, thereby completing the battery circuit and supplying power to your pedal.  With no plug inserted, the battery is open-circuit (and doesn't drain).

Ok.. this is kinda hard for me, I guess I was confusing them yes.

I have a stereo 6.3 plug and a mono 6.3 plug (that will be connected with 6.3 jack tips) . What I want to do is to, together with the DC power jack, to switch between 9V from battery to power supply when the power supply is connected.
Also, I would like to have a LED which turns on when I switch on the 3PDT and off when the opposite happens.
And true bypass too.

I was thinkin that the 5th diagram of that pdf would help me, but it seems not.

I hope I explained myself better.

[bluebunny]

I don't know what you're hoping to do with a stereo plug?  Guitar leads are mono.  These wiring schemes are intended for mono guitar leads.  Stereo plugs belong on headphones.

[antonis]

I was thinkin that the 5th diagram of that pdf would help me, but it seems not.

5th diagram is just fine for you..!! 

It has a stereo IN jack, a mono OUT jack, a battery switch, an LED indicator (plus IN grounded when effect by-passed..)

[GibsonGM]

Plug a guitar (mono) plug into the stereo jack.  Note what happens...   

[antonis]

Plug a guitar (mono) plug into the stereo jack.

DON'T DO IT...!!!!! 

(or do it with a dry wooden stick keeping safety distance..)


More seriously: Stereo IN jack Sleeve and Ring are shorted by mono plug Sleeve..
In case you use a stereo plug you have to short plug's sleeve and ring..

[savethewhales]

Ok so, again I guess I failed the names of things.

What I have is a 6.3 mm Stereo connector (in which one mono plug inserts) and a 6.3 mono connector (in which other mono plug inserts too) and I would like to make it true bypass with 3pdt and a LED, as well as switching from the battery to power supply.

I guess with hours of banging my head around this, that it seems fine for me to use the 5th diagram as antonis said.

One big mistake was to assume a mono socket (with 3 connections and whatever) was a stereo socket, which I showed to my "electronics experient" friend, and he was telling me that no way, I couldn't do what I want with that.

Now I understood my error and I guess it's fine for me to use the diagram.

Thanks everyone.

[savethewhales]

So unfortunately here I am again with doubts.

I have this 6.3 stereo connector which is like this



It has 4 "possible connections", including the one on the right which is kinda to the side.
Yes, the connector is cheap, and no, I didn't know the difference bewteen cheap and expensive ones.

Because it is cheap, it started moving the connection of the far right when I was turning the piece to be stable in my pedal box.

Now it's kinda loose but the question for now is:

How do I solder this connector in respect to the 5th diagram we were talking about? I'm kinda confuse because I see 4 connections instead of 3.

Thanks in advance.

[bluebunny]

If you turn that view slightly so that the connection at the back (the tip) is towards the left, you'll see that there's an extra tab which makes contact with the tip connection.  But when a plug is inserted, the tip connection is moved out of the way and the extra connection is broken.  Anyway, find the lug that is connected to this extra tab and disregard it (or cut it off!).  Now you have an ordinary stereo jack with three connections.

[savethewhales]

If you turn that view slightly so that the connection at the back (the tip) is towards the left, you'll see that there's an extra tab which makes contact with the tip connection.  But when a plug is inserted, the tip connection is moved out of the way and the extra connection is broken.  Anyway, find the lug that is connected to this extra tab and disregard it (or cut it off!).  Now you have an ordinary stereo jack with three connections.

Ok. Actually I was aware that the tip was shorted with the ring (right?) when the jack is not inserted and opened when the jack is inserted. But however for what you said about cutting of a lug, I didn't understand if you were actually mentioning the lug which I said was moving (the one to the far right of my image, which is the ground) or if you were talking about the lug which is connected to the tip.

[duck_arse]

with an empty jack socket, the tip dinger [the longest metal finger there] is shorted to the tip switch [the hidden, shortest metal finger], not to the ring. when the plug is inserted, the tip switch opens, unshorting the switched connection. the tip and ring are NEVER shorted, unless you specifically wire your socket to do so [and use a stereo plug]. but why would you do that?

[savethewhales]

with an empty jack socket, the tip dinger [the longest metal finger there] is shorted to the tip switch [the hidden, shortest metal finger], not to the ring. when the plug is inserted, the tip switch opens, unshorting the switched connection. the tip and ring are NEVER shorted, unless you specifically wire your socket to do so [and use a stereo plug]. but why would you do that?

Ok thanks!! All I wanted was to know if, for the 5th diagram posted above, if I need to use those 4 connections, including the one on the far right of my image?

I didn't want to short ring and tip, it's just cause I thought the short metal finger that is shorted with the tip was the ring, now I know it's not.

[bluebunny]

You would be better off just buying unswitched stereo jacks.  Three lugs.  No confusion.

[savethewhales]

You would be better off just buying unswitched stereo jacks.  Three lugs.  No confusion.

Ok.. I understand. In my case, do I need to connect the part that I referred it was moving? No, right?

[PRR]

...he part that I referred it was moving?...

Aside from connections (you know what to do): don't buy cheap junk!! When stuck with cheap junk, fix it (or break it). This one, the bushing is not crimped tight enough.

Get a 3/8"(8mm) wrench socket and a 1/8" drill bit. Set the jack in the socket so you can beat on the back of the bushing. Lay the small drill bit -across- the rolled part of the bushing. Beat it tighter. Rotate, beat, rotate, beat, so you have six good dents in the rolled portion of the bushing.

If it breaks, kismet.

[savethewhales]

(you know what to do)

Actually I don't. There's an "extra" connection, the bushing is not crimped tight enough, I don't have a store nearby that sells good stereo sockets , because it is unavailable right now, etc..

Get a 3/8"(8mm) wrench socket and a 1/8" drill bit. Set the jack in the socket so you can beat on the back of the bushing. Lay the small drill bit -across- the rolled part of the bushing. Beat it tighter. Rotate, beat, rotate, beat, so you have six good dents in the rolled portion of the bushing.

If it breaks, kismet.

And I don't know if it's because of my english , but I didn't understand well what to do. The names you wrote are too technical for me. Anyway I don't seem to have enough tools, neither the ones you said, probably, so I'll have to stick with trying the socket like it is just to see if the pedal works and further I'll buy a right one.

Thanks anyway.

[bluebunny]

Show us some close-up pictures of the socket from all sides.  We'll annotate for you what connections to make and which one to ignore.

[kraal]

(you know what to do)

Actually I don't. There's an "extra" connection, the bushing is not crimped tight enough, I don't have a store nearby that sells good stereo sockets , because it is unavailable right now, etc..

Hi,

About the jack being loose: If it is too loose, place a spring washer. It will help keeping everything in place.

About the 4 solder lugs on your connector: There is one for the sleeve, one for the tip, and one for the ring + one for brake or make a connection (with the ring or tip) when you plug in a cable. If you don't have the datasheet for this connector, you can check if it is a break or make as follows:

With your connector not soldered to anything and no cable plugged in, take a multimeter to check for continuity (or a battery with a led connected to a resistor on one pole and a wire connected to the other pole), and touch the different solder lugs with the wires (different combinations):

• if the multimeter bips (or the led lights up) in one combination: this pair of lugs is connected and the connection will break when the plug is inserted (break jack).
• if the multimeter doesn't bip (or the led doesn't light up) in no combination: this is probably a make jack

If it is a break jack, plug a cable and check that the connection is really broken (do the same test as above, you should not get any bip/the led should not turn turn on).

• if yes you now know what each lug is for (if you don't see below)
• if not: tell us

If it is a make jack (you had no bip in the previous test), plug a STEREO cable and do the same test:

• if the multimeter bips (or the led lights up) in one combination: this pair of lugs have their connection made (make) when the cable is plugged in
• if the multimeter doesn't bip (or the led doesn't light up) in no combination: tell us

Once you've done these checks and if you still don't know what the lugs are for (which one is tip/ring/sleeve), do the following: with your stereo cable plugged in the connector, touch one lug and the different parts of the opposite end of your stereo cable. When you get a bip/light you know that the two are connected (and now you know what the lugs are connected to).

Side note: if you reached any "tell us" part of the above tests, consider the option of changing jacks...

I hope it's clear enough.

[savethewhales]

So these are the pictures I was able to take. Hope it can help.
If not, warn me and I'll try to take better photos.