Jacks and Stomp on same side of PCB in 1590A - can it be done?

[mark2]

I'm trying to design a PCB that can be assembled with jacks and a 3PDT and dropped into a 1590A, and am stuck on finding jacks that would work.

Because I'll have trimmers on the top of the board, I need the 3PDT seated all the way down against the face of the enclosure, so the jacks need to be shorter than its body (i.e. < ~15mm)

Neutrik NMJ4HCD2 almost fit the bill, especially because of the ferrule that allows you to stick the board into the enclosure without tilting it back and forth to feed the jacks one at a time. Unfortunately they're too tall unless you

The Neutrik NRJ6HM-1 is oh-so-close in that it's nice and short, but unfortunately it's a bit too long so would be impossible to mount into regular side holes, and would instead need a "U" shape cut out all the way to the edge.

Any other options I'm overlooking, besides the obvious one to use NMJ4HCD2 and put the 3PDT on a separate board?

[mark2]

Maybe with Cliff S4 jacks.

[iainpunk]

have you looked at the NRJ4HM-1, it looks to me that its a tad smaller, than the NRJ6HM-1

OFF TOPIC (RANT): now that i really think about it, cant you just have a hole where a 3 conductor cable leaves the enclosure through the top and on the end are 2 female jack connectors, this gives you the flexibility of the small enclosure, but without the hassle of bulky internal connectors. also, the biggest problem i have with 1590A is that the width of 2 L shaped jacks is more than the room you save on the board, if i want compact, ill top-mount the jacks. (not that i want to discredit the skill and precision involved in building something in a 1590A)

cheers, Iain

[mark2]

Looks like the NRJ4HM-1 is discontinued though there are potentially a couple places with some in stock. I"ll look closer later, thanks.

By the way, I think i'm just going to find a way to make the taller, more common NMJ4HCD2 (or the tayda knockoffs) work. It won't be ideal but I think I can get it done.

I think you're on to something with the external jacks! Especially if you use thin profile ones so they're not much wider than a patch cable anyway.  Or maybe make a male cable version if you're always going to have it in the middle of a pedal board.  1590LB here I come!

[drdn0]

I know this is an old post, but did you ever get it to work? I'm having the same conundrum myself.

[mark2]

I know this is an old post, but did you ever get it to work? I'm having the same conundrum myself.

Yes, but with different criteria.  I have the components, foot switch, and the common 6 pin insulated jacks all on the same side of the board.

[drdn0]

I know this is an old post, but did you ever get it to work? I'm having the same conundrum myself.

Yes, but with different criteria.  I have the components, foot switch, and the common 6 pin insulated jacks all on the same side of the board.

Awesome, I'd love some photos

[mark2]

Sure, here are some quick and dirty photos that hopefully illustrate it. Forgot to mention I put the pots on a separate board to account for the height difference.

[drdn0]

Sure, here are some quick and dirty photos that hopefully illustrate it. Forgot to mention I put the pots on a separate board to account for the height difference.

Ahhh ok, SMD stuff would definitely make the job easier. I'll see what I can do - I can get everything along with a pair of Neutrik jacks, but don't have the real estate to throw a board-mounted DC jack in.

I'm making a series of kits that I can use in my pedal building classes that have universal footprints/jacks/etc, and decided to get the smaller projects into a 1590A because I'm a sucker for pain. Aiming to get as much of the kid on-board as possible, with only a short JST-XH patch cable running between the switching an effect boards. I've got some 3-pot builds into a 1590B without any difficulty, but struggling with the smaller stuff. I'll probably just give up and put the single-pot builds into a 1590B too, but it's a real waste of real estate

[mark2]

Even with the specially designed boards, and even if you can fit everything, I still wouldn't recommend this for a pedal building workshop. I can put these together fast but only because I know the exact steps and tricks and have done it a bunch. But for anyone else they'd run into problems if not precisely following the right sequence.

When it comes to learning or enjoying the build process, the wasted real estate of a larger enclosure is well worth the breathing room and forgiveness it gives, in my opinion.

[ElectricDruid]

When it comes to learning or enjoying the build process, the wasted real estate of a larger enclosure is well worth the breathing room and forgiveness it gives, in my opinion.

+1 agree. Not recommended for beginners or people learning the process, although your PCBs should help everything a lot. But learners won't be so concerned about real estate and might be plenty happy with a 1590B, so why make life difficult?

That's for Pro's and crazy people, both of which we have in spades around here