Switch not working

Started by Marcseo, January 12, 2021, 12:10:40 PM

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Marcseo

Hi, I am soldering a bunch of different switches for a number of different pedals I will be building in the upcoming months. I am building 20 switches at the moment as I have some spare time and all the components. I am using this daughterboard by Fuzzdog http://pedalparts.co.uk/docs/3PDTDC.pdf .

I have built many of these without any issue. But I am looking at one now that does not work. It is a super simple circuit, so I am not sure what could have gone wrong. I have tested for voltages and I am getting 9v on the voltage pad, as well as on the anode pad of the LED and on one of the pads of the CLR. I do get signal through when in bypass, but no LED light nor sound when I press the switch. Is there a way of knowing if I have a broken 3pdt switch? The 9 legs measure 0v.

Thanks in advance :)

Marcseo

Oh yeah, I have also checked for continuity between the pins of the 3pdt and everything seems ok (central pins have continuity with their corresponding external ones depending on the switch position) and also checked continuity between input and output jacks.

idy

OK, so the switch seems good.

I would also make sure the LED is not in backwards, or damaged, or even a mislabeled UV (invisble.) There was also a recent thread on LEDs that had the long lead (usually+) on the - side.

Marcseo

Would this affect the actual signal? I thought putting the LED the other way around just meant the light would turn on when the pedal was on and vice versa. If I plug my guitar to the input jack I do get sound, but when pressing the switch it cuts.

Marcseo

Cool, just changed the LED and now it does turn on :)


I am going to connect it to a test circuit I have to see if it passes signal and everything

Marcseo

Nah just soldered it to a circuit but no sound :(

The LED does turn on now, though. And I know that circuit works cause I have used it to test several switches.


Marcseo

Any idea what could be happening? I am thinking of maybe trying to desolder the 3dpt (although I am sure it will take some time and patience) and just doing this without a daughterboard PCB. This would be my first time doing all the cableing for a 3dpt. Could be a cool exercise

iainpunk

what does the pcb look like, maybe post some detailed pictures of both the component side and the solder side of the board, it could be that there is a bad solder or bad component on the board.

did you try the multi meter continuity check? (its the one that gives a beep when the probes touch each other)
try to test the individual internal switches, maybe its a bad switch.

cheers, Iain
friendly reminder: all holes are positive and have negative weight, despite not being there.

cheers

Marcseo

Not at home right now, so cannot take a picture.

The pcb only has the switch, CLR and LED, plus all the pads for cables to the main board, power and jacks. But I am not using using those pads at the moment as I am "stocking" these daughterboards for future pedals. I do have continuity through out the PCB (from both jacks and the switch legs), I do get measurings on the power pads, LED and CLR. Now that I swopped the LED for a new one, the light does turn on. But when testing the board with a pedal, it was not powering it. I will redo the test tonight and update. Also send images.

thanks