Soldering to tagboard/terminal strip

[j_flanders]

I noticed these two types.
Is there a reason for the second type to have terminals shaped the way they are?
Is there a specific way of connecting/soldering to those as opposed to the first picture?

[davent]

Just from the pictures, the first example you're gong to need to lift/bend up the inner eyelets to get the leads through the holes, the second one will also float resistors and similar sized components above the board which may be desirable.

dave

[GGBB]

I would imagine the second type is easier/faster since you can just wrap the lead around one side rather than having to feed it through a lug.

[PRR]

> these two types.

Those are both "economical" (cheap) but functional for most purposes. Don't over-think them.

As you get into Western Electric, Altec, and other professional builds you get turret board. Lathe-turned turrets crimped into heavy board.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/77/Turret_Board_with_a_Few_Components.png

[j_flanders]

Those are both "economical" (cheap) but functional for most purposes. Don't over-think them.

My local electronics store only had the version in the second picture. It certainly feels a bit cheap.
Musikding.de who specializes in kits and components for stompboxes also sells this type.
I definitely wouldn't use it for a tube amp but thought it might be ok to try with a simple Fuzz Face circuit.

Here's what appears the same but one step up in quality:



But once again I can't help but wonder what that notch in the terminals in the second picture could be for.

Actual single terminals are common in these two types as well but I don't see how their difference translates to soldering onto them when they're on a terminal strip.


But there are many others as well...

Don't over-think them.

Easier said than done.

[PRR]

> what that notch in the terminals in the second picture could be for.

Drop a wire in, glob solder on it. Less secure than a 3/4-wrap, but sometimes we don't want to pay for rocket-ship reliability.

[anotherjim]

Drop-in solder terminals are not necessarily for cheap work.
The Tektronix ceramic strip was considered high end...
https://vintagetek.org/ceramic-strips/

I like using solder tag boards, but don't you just hate it when the mounting holes line up so the fixing is hidden under a component?

[davent]

Drop-in solder terminals are not necessarily for cheap work.
The Tektronix ceramic strip was considered high end...
https://vintagetek.org/ceramic-strips/

I like using solder tag boards, but don't you just hate it when the mounting holes line up so the fixing is hidden under a component?

Connex Silver-Plated Ceramic Terminal Strips


https://www.partsconnexion.com/connex-silver-plated-ceramic-terminal-strips.html

Nearby retailer.
dave

[amptramp]

Any reason you are not considering turret terminal boards?



This one is 30x2 terminals and is 11.75 inches long by 2.25 inches wide.  It is CDN$ 19,90 at A-1 Electronics.  OK, maybe I just answered my own question, but the quality remains after the price is forgotten.

[mozz]

Drop-in solder terminals are not necessarily for cheap work.
The Tektronix ceramic strip was considered high end...
https://vintagetek.org/ceramic-strips/

I like using solder tag boards, but don't you just hate it when the mounting holes line up so the fixing is hidden under a component?

They even gave you a small spool of silver solder inside the unit in case you had to do repairs.

[davent]

Any reason you are not considering turret terminal boards?



This one is 30x2 terminals and is 11.75 inches long by 2.25 inches wide.  It is CDN$ 19,90 at A-1 Electronics.  OK, maybe I just answered my own question, but the quality remains after the price is forgotten.

If you like the forked turrets, Parts Connexion has a 2 x 30


https://www.partsconnexion.com/CONNEX-75534.html

[j_flanders]

Any reason you are not considering turret terminal boards?
It is CDN$ 19,90 at A-1 Electronics.  OK, maybe I just answered my own question, but the quality remains after the price is forgotten.

For this kind of money, price or cost is not an issue. If there's a high quality option I always go for that.
I've noticed in the past the huge difference 'expensive' switches, jacks, pots, enclosures etc. make.

I normally order at newtone-online.nl, musikding.de, banzai.de or tad.de
Newtone and musikding have the same cheap Chinese stuff. Banzai and tad have higher quality options.
It's just that they're really slow at the moment. I placed an order at musikding more than 2 (two!) weeks ago and they still have not shipped.

So I went to my local electronics store earlier this week. It too has mostly the Chinese stuff though you can ask them to order high quality versions, but only if you buy 10 or 100 pieces.
The cheap tagboard is all they had...

Any reason you are not considering turret terminal boards?

I thought tagboard might be convenient for a simple circuit like a fuzz face which has more wires connected to the board than components. Connecting the components to the inside lugs and the wires to the outside lugs...

[anotherjim]

I thought tagboard might be convenient for a simple circuit like a fuzz face which has more wires connected to the board than components. Connecting the components to the inside lugs and the wires to the outside lugs...

A perfectly reasonable approach.

[rankot]

What kind of soldering iron one needs for turret work? I suppose normal iron I use for PCB (20W) wouldn't be good enough?

[andy-h-h]

Just buy some and see what you like.     After reading a lot of opinions, and indeed offering them at times, nothing replaces getting amongst it it trying different options yourself. 

[amptramp]

What kind of soldering iron one needs for turret work? I suppose normal iron I use for PCB (20W) wouldn't be good enough?

It depends on how many connections you make to each point and what gauge of wire you use.  I have a couple of 48-watt irons that get the bulk of the usage here.  I occasionally use a 100/140 watt soldering gun for wire connections or component removal and a large 100-watt iron for making ground connections to a metal chassis.  You might be OK with 20-watt but I would have an alternate bigger iron if it gets too slow.

[rankot]

It depends on how many connections you make to each point and what gauge of wire you use.  I have a couple of 48-watt irons that get the bulk of the usage here.  I occasionally use a 100/140 watt soldering gun for wire connections or component removal and a large 100-watt iron for making ground connections to a metal chassis.  You might be OK with 20-watt but I would have an alternate bigger iron if it gets too slow.

OK, thanks for a very detailed answer! I'm currently building PCB-based Champ clone, but soon I will try to build something bigger with turret board, so I wasn't so sure my little iron would do the job.

[bluebunny]

+1 - what Ron said. 

I built my Champ (turrets) OK with my old 25W Antex, but managed a couple of cold joints when I subsequently built some tagboard pedals - which I had to reflow.    They certainly take more heating up than PCBs!