Foxx Tone Machine Help - General Guitar Gadgets

[Need More Pedals]

Hi Everybody.  I'm so happy to be here.  I am a noob to building pedals and forums.  I have a Foxx Tone Machine Replica from GGG that I am building for a good friend.

Here are the Build Documents:

Schematic
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ftm_sc.pdf

Wiring and Layout
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_ftm_lo_2fsw.pdf

Web page.
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/effects-projects/octave/foxx-tone-machine/

This is my 4th build.  I have built BYOC Classic Fuzz, BYOC Large Beaver Ram's Head, and www.diyguitarpedals.com.au/ One Knob Fuzz.  I confess, the FTM may be a little out of my build level.  I feel confident in the PCB population.  I did have minor outboard wiring issues with all three previous builds, but they were easy fixes. I Multi Meter the resistors and triple check before soldering.  I have not learned how to test anything else.  I am disabled and needed a good hobby to stay engaged, so I take my time and concentrate as best I can.  It's something I am passionate about.  I did box it before testing as I am still learning that step as well.  I have used alligator clips to debug the One Knob Fuzz wiring issue.  I don't really have the level of skill to debug this.  I am ready to do anything to get this finished and to my friend.  I have stared at it for a week, checking wiring and pcb many times, to no avail.  Overall, I feel rather confident in the build, wiring excluded, and I think the issues are minor.  If I could get help with any "easy" fix, I can get back to Beginner projects where I belong.  btw, I'm hooked, I love building pedals! 

There were no parts substitutions.  This did come as a kit. 

I don't know anything about positive or negative ground.  I would assume it is Negative ground.

What it's doing:
I am getting signal through when off.  With no power to pedal the Octave switch does nothing and the Fuzz switch kills the signal.  Same thing with power to the pedal, LED's work but act wacky.  Each LED turns on when the correct switch is engaged, but they will not engage at the same time.  One shuts off when the other is pushed.  I did question the workings of the wiring layout in this detail.  Power to both LED's through a 1K resistor split to each LED.

I have detailed pictures of the build if needed.

I am reading debugging and YouTube attempting to actively learn from the experience.  I want to progress as a builder.

Thank you for your time, I really appreciate it!  - T.J.

[Need More Pedals]

the pots don't work either.

[GibsonGM]

Hi NMP, welcome to the forum!  No worries, you're in the right place to ask these questions, and we're glad you are as addicted to building as you are, ha ha!

I'd suggest - sure, upload a couple more pics...if you have the tech, can you label where each switch wire is going?  It does sound like the switching could be an issue; a very very common occurrence.

I usually test all my builds with only jumpers before adding switches/jacks, so I know it works first!   If we can't debug the switching, maybe an audio probe would be of use, but lets have the bypass crew take a look first      

You will want this as you progress:  https://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/debug.html 

[bluebunny]

Also check out the sticky "Debugging" thread.  Follow the instructions there and report back! 

[Need More Pedals]

I don't know how to put the arrows on the wires etc.

on switch one
1 and 2 are jumpered
3 is jumpered to 7
4 runs to LED
5 connects to 5 on 2nd switch
6 runs to output jack
7 has jumper to 3 and connects to input jack
8 runs to LED
9 runs to Volume pot 2

Switch 2:

1-4, 6, and 7 are not used
5 Three way split to 5on sw1, G on top right of PCB board, and D2 on top middle of PCB

[Need More Pedals]

oops.

8 runs to LED
9 runs to D1 on the PCB


Unsure of the jack and dc wiring also.

[radio]

It sure does help to use different colors of wire to get less confused and others to see how it is connected

[Need More Pedals]

Agreed.  Last time that happens.  Bought a 6 color box.

[Need More Pedals]

I will start dismantling it tomorrow and see how it goes...

[anotherjim]

A least you don't have all black wire. You can give wires IDs with marks from coloured Sharpies at each end.

[aelling]

It looks like you might have the wire from D2 on the board going to middle lug (which is ground) on the octave switch, it needs to go to the right middle lug.

[duck_arse]

What it's doing:
I am getting signal through when off.  With no power to pedal the Octave switch does nothing and the Fuzz switch kills the signal.  Same thing with power to the pedal, LED's work but act wacky.  Each LED turns on when the correct switch is engaged, but they will not engage at the same time.  One shuts off when the other is pushed.  I did question the workings of the wiring layout in this detail.  Power to both LED's through a 1K resistor split to each LED.

if you have two leds, and you expect to be able to have them both on at the same time, you will need two resistors, one for each led. if the two [different colour?] are wired parallel on a single CLR, whichever led has lowest forward voltage [when turned on] will "win", and light. your diagrams don't show the two led wirings. so:

supply > resistor > red led > switch > ground -and- supply > resistor > green led > switch > ground

if the fuzz/octave switch is affecting the signal when no power applied, it suggests to me that you have a bypass switch wiring error.

[Need More Pedals]

thank you so much!  I've got it out of the box. I will work on those changes when I can and report back!

[Need More Pedals]

D2 on PCB changed to right middle lug on Octave switch.  Good call!  Thank you. 

I did not change the led's yet as I assume it will not interfere with the effect switching/working...

The pedal acts the same.  signal through.  Octave does nothing, Fuzz kills signal.  Pots not working.  led's work in same way(have not addressed).

[Need More Pedals]