Phase 90 circuit won't work

[snow123]

Here is the circuit, some of the offboard wiring, the offboard wiring diagram I followed, and the pcb layout I followed.












2 things I should note about the wiring and stuff is that I used a 22uf polarized cap instead of 15uf and I'm not using a battery clip.
Also, when I turn it on, I just hear static and popping noises from my amp.
Can anyone help me out?

[tonyharker]

Its definitely not going to work if you use the wrong sort of board.  The layout shown is on veroboard/strip board whereas you have used matrix board with no copper strips on it. So many of the interconnects are not there.

[andy-h-h]

Unfortunately you can't just solder the connections either, as that board is double sided, and it appears a lot of parts are in contact with the other pads on the surface.  If it was a single sided board, maybe an easy fix.

If this is your first build, a phaser might be a hard way to start.  The JFETS can be tricky.

Anyway, good luck with it, even if you have to start again.   

[duck_arse]

for when you rebuild - what fets are you using that they are fitted backwards to the layout diagram? and the 15uF cap at the bottom next to the diode is fitted backwards.

[kaycee]

As mentioned above, you used the wrong type of project board, you needed vero-board/stripboard. That said, your soldering is good and part placement neat, so had you of used the right type of board, you'd of had a fighting chance of a working build. I'd suggest that you buy a PCB for the circuit, or even a full kit and you should find it a breeze to build one. I like building on vero, but for this size of circuit, I'd usually get a board if there is one available, its a lot easier.

[snow123]

Ok, I used the correct pcb and it turns on and let's my dry signal through, but it doesn't do the phaser thing.

[Marcos - Munky]

You're using a single turn trimpot. A few days ago I built a Phasor 201 using a single turn trimpot and a Phase 90 using a multiturn trimpot, and it was way harder to set the single turn trimpot than the multiturn one.

Basically, you have no phase on one end of the trimpot. You start to rotate it, still no phase. Then, on a very small rotation range, you suddenly have phase! But you turn a bit more, and the phase is gone... So you have to turn it back a little and search again for that sweet spot.

Just try to rotate the trimpot as slow as you can, while you play something on the guitar (like open strings) at the same time. I spent like 20 minutes to set the trimpot on my Phasor 201, so take your time.

[snow123]

i tried that and still got nothing. and when i flip the switch to switch to script phase 90 it gets quieter,

[snow123]

Also here's everything in the enclosure/the offboard wiring

[andy-h-h]

Without looking at placement of components, the bottom left quadrant looks problematic with solder bridges.   I'd be reflowing those joints, get some flux on it first.








There's also a join missing here - possibly other joins missing as well (blue circles on layout)







I'd suggest testing it before you box it, AKA rock it before you box it.  If you don't have one, buy a breadboard, and you can do some testing prior to boxing.  Saves a lot of time.   

[snow123]

Without looking at placement of components, the bottom left quadrant looks problematic with solder bridges.   I'd be reflowing those joints, get some flux on it first.








There's also a join missing here - possibly other joins missing as well (blue circles on layout)







I'd suggest testing it before you box it, AKA rock it before you box it.  If you don't have one, buy a breadboard, and you can do some testing prior to boxing.  Saves a lot of time.

how do i apply flux to it? do i just dip the iron in the flux?

[andy-h-h]

I use a flux pen to apply to the existing solder on the board.  Flux is what helps solder flow - with no flux, you can actually make more of a mess than you started with.   

[snow123]

[andy-h-h]

That's looking better.   

Can always give it a scrape down the lines with a knife and/or give it a scrub with an old toothbrush and some pure alcohol or circuit cleaner.   Just lightly wet the toothbrush, don't soak the board and wait for it to evaporate before powering it up.

Testing with a multimeter set to continuity mode is also good if you are unsure.  I would not normally do that unless I know that I have issues somewhere.

[duck_arse]

for when you rebuild - what fets are you using that they are fitted backwards to the layout diagram?

question stands.
also, please post a full set of voltages - all IC pins, transistor pins, and that zener diode voltage.

[snow123]

oh, im using 2n5457s instead of 2n5952s, and everything else is the same as the layout.

[pacealot]

I'd suggest testing it before you box it, AKA rock it before you box it.  If you don't have one, buy a breadboard, and you can do some testing prior to boxing.  Saves a lot of time.

I heartily second the breadboard recommendation. Several years ago I was starting out from scratch building various vero and perfboard layouts, and I had about a 20% success rate, at best. Breadboarding really helped me figure out the little mistakes I tend to make and significantly slowed the direct-to-landfill component trajectory! 

[andy-h-h]

oh, im using 2n5457s instead of 2n5952s, and everything else is the same as the layout.

They should work, and it looks like you have them orientated the right way around given their pinout.  JFETs can be pesky things...  you will soon find out.