Help with Angel Chorus

Started by winnetouch, April 13, 2021, 02:14:54 PM

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winnetouch

I have no clue what I'm doing wrong. I've never had issues assembling a kit before. I built this kit: https://www.musikding.de/The-Angel-Chorus-kit

Now when it's off the LED turns on but it's dim. Then I turn the pedal on and the LED burns brighter. That's never happened before. I double-checked my soldering, everything looks fine. The wires all seem to go where they are suppose to. Also, when the pedal is off, the pedal hisses.





antonis

Could you plz post some pics of your build..??

Especially 3PDT switch wiring..
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

antonis

Nothing peculiar..

Maybe a defective switch..
"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

Kevin Mitchell

Your stomp switch is broken causing resistance between lugs that otherwise would never be connected.
It's allowing current to flow through the LED and also into your signal.
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winnetouch

#4
Could it also be the power supply? I grabbed an unlabeled plug from our gig place that I use for my multi-effect. If it's AC that could also cause an issue?  This is probably a really noob question but I'm not really versed in stuff like that. I learn as I go :P.

antonis

Despite power supply current flow (DC or AC), LED status indicator should light up for only one switch position.. :icon_wink:
(dim in case of AC due to halfwave rectification via LED p-n junction).. :icon_wink:


"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

kaycee

You've mounted you switch wrongly in the PCB. It needs to rotate 90 degrees. If you can't unsolder it, cut the wires, remove as much solder from the PCB as you can then break the PCB to free the switch. Clear the lugs and solder as per your favoured bypass scheme.

winnetouch

Quote from: kaycee on April 14, 2021, 07:49:46 AM
You've mounted you switch wrongly in the PCB. It needs to rotate 90 degrees. If you can't unsolder it, cut the wires, remove as much solder from the PCB as you can then break the PCB to free the switch. Clear the lugs and solder as per your favoured bypass scheme.

How do know that? I've been wondering that myself nad I can't find any indicator on how to rotate the switch.

winnetouch

#8
Quote from: kaycee on April 14, 2021, 07:49:46 AM
You've mounted you switch wrongly in the PCB. It needs to rotate 90 degrees. If you can't unsolder it, cut the wires, remove as much solder from the PCB as you can then break the PCB to free the switch. Clear the lugs and solder as per your favoured bypass scheme.

I just managed to desolder the switch. It can't be rotated 90 degrees. It won't fit into the PCB that way. I have a spare switch handy so I'll try to replace it and see if it was the switch.

Edit: It was the switch. I soldered in the replacement and it works fine now. Still buzzes a little but not that much. The LED goes off when the pedal is not active.

kaycee

I had the same symptoms using the same switch PCB. They don't mark on it which way round it goes, which would be helpful. The lugs on the switches sometimes need a little bend to get them to go in. I broke the PCB removing it, but wired up the switch direct in my usual bypass configuration and it worked fine.

winnetouch

Ok, but the issue was not the switch orientation. It was the switch itself. I used a new switch, installed it identically and it works as it should now.