AION Stratus TS9 - Led is on, bypass works. No sound engaged

[broomhandle]

I have go thru all my trouble shooting. I do not know what to do next for trouble shoot.  It works in bypass, but once engaged I get no sound. I feel it is something dumb. The caps and resistors are from Tayda.

Any help would be great. Pictures attached.

[antonis]

Check for Q1 and/or Q2 proper socket placing..

As far as I can see, Q2 is 180^o flipped, according to PCB marking..

P.S.
Despite of proper pinout placing, I'd suggest to make firm contact with sockets with a smear of solder..

[broomhandle]

I fixed Q2 still no sound.. good eyes!

as for solder. are you saying for Q1 and 2?  (Despite of proper pinout placing, I'd suggest to make firm contact with sockets with a smear of solder..)

I took the board out and confirmed everything was proper connected.

[idy]

R7 missing would do it...it connects the two OpAmp stages.

[idy]

R16 missing will also mean no sounds. It is half of "VB."

[broomhandle]

Holy F... LOL...

This was a project started and finished way after...

I can't not believe I did that. thank you, will get that fixed..... LOL.. for reals..

[stvmgn]

Hi all,

I too have the same issue. LED is always on. It will get slightly brighter when the effect is engaged and slightly dimmer when the effect is bypassed. Bypass will pass audio through.

I tested all my resistors on the PCB's with no power connected. The only one that gave me a reading that was weird was R15. Supposed to be 10k, the reading was 0.5ohms. Schematic shows that R15 is the last resistor in the audio signal path.

Could this be the cause of my issue? If not, what else might be?


Cheers

[ElectricDruid]

Welcome stvmgn!

LED is always on. It will get slightly brighter when the effect is engaged and slightly dimmer when the effect is bypassed.

That's not right. Something is wrong somewhere. The LED should go properly off when the pedal is disengaged.

Bypass will pass audio through.

Well, that's good at least!

I tested all my resistors on the PCB's with no power connected. The only one that gave me a reading that was weird was R15. Supposed to be 10k, the reading was 0.5ohms. Schematic shows that R15 is the last resistor in the audio signal path.

Could this be the cause of my issue? If not, what else might be?

"0.5 ohms" is basically saying "shorted" - that's so little resistance it hardly counts as resistance at all. So check for shorts around R15 and the related components. Are there any little whiskers of solder that might be touching another track, or bridging acoss two pads?

From the top side on the photo you've posted, your soldering looks very neat, so that's a good sign. Nice work. I hope the bottom side looks as good!

HTH

[stvmgn]

Nevermind what I said above. I took out all pcb's, created a audio signal tester with tone generator and ran through the entire audio signal path. The problem came when going from main pcb to foothswitch pcb. I found some solder had oozed out from under switch to the LEDR. I trimmed that away but still there was no difference. The audio signal stops when I plug in the footswitch pcb to the main pcb. I get tone on pin 3 of the right 3-pin header, which is all correct. What I am thinking happened is I messed up the footswitch and footswitch pcb when I changed solder. I ran out so I used some unidentified solder that came with a soldering station. I had to move from 375 C to like 475 C just to melt this stuff. I'm pretty sure I messed it up.

[idy]

Maybe test continuity on switch, make sure it is working. Yes, the switches do not like high heat.

Before you solder any more make sure you have proper solder and iron.Do yourself a favor.

[stvmgn]

Thanks for the advice. I purchased a Weller WT-1 and a spool of Kester 44.

I desoldered the bad footswitch from the board and successfully installed a new footswitch. To my delight, the pedal wnow orks properly.

As a noob I thought it didn't matter the kind of soldering station I used. I did know that solder was important but didn't know enough. Now I know. Cheers 🍻

[antonis]

As a noob I thought it didn't matter the kind of soldering station I used. I did know that solder was important but didn't know enough.

FWIW, you'll have to establish your own standards relatively to soldering station temperature and shape/dimensions of particular soldering tip..
(my English language poor skills prevent hydraulic and heat transfer correlation.. )