Breadboarding a Phase 45

[audiobalm]

but I don't think that means I can necessarily connect all those components on the +V rail simply to positive and be done with it can I?

Why would you think that? Of course you can, and must, if you want this to work. If components are connected by a line on a schematic, then they're physically connected by a wire or trace (or "rail").

I wondered whether in the image to the right of the 9v+the 10K resistor and the diode to ground would have some effect in terms of the voltage that the other components to the right receives. Have I just made that up and is total folly?

I'll set it up on my BB take a pic and hopefully that'll clarify what I mean.

[duck_arse]

it's your breadboard - tell it to do what you want. connect those long busses to whatever you want, doesn't have to be V+ and/or ground/0V. just as long as you can remember what you've allocated where, you can stick the zener reference voltage on a bus and ease your other connections. let your wires do the walking.

[audiobalm]

OK, something that might help here is some assistance in my Breadboard logic. I've whipped together the LFO Section (With added LED Per instructions above) in Fritzing. I'm making a few assumptions but can you let me know if I've gone wrong with any of the connections? Thanks! Hopefully it's easier to see in Fritzing than in a picture.




By the way, should the LFO Pulse? Because all it does is turn on, and get brighter / darker using the Potentiometer.

[Kevin Mitchell]

By the way, should the LFO Pulse? Because all it does is turn on, and get brighter / darker using the Potentiometer.

Hmm... I suggested it as others had verified it to work - I've never done it myself.

Here's my simulation which verifies yours. You can see what happens with the LFO output when I switch in the LED.


I'm looking for the real LED mod now. Sorry about that!

[Kevin Mitchell]

Got it. Try 2.4k from the opamp's output instead of 6.8k where I had previously suggested. I probably just took the lead of someone spitballing.

[audiobalm]

Got it. Try 2.4k from the opamp's output instead of 6.8k where I had previously suggested. I probably just took the lead of someone spitballing.

Thanks for your help

Unfortunately we have the same issue. Light stays on, doesn't pulse, "speed" adjusts only brightness

Have a look at the picture. Anything obvious I'm doing wrong here?

[anotherjim]

I wouldn't drive the LED from what is part of the speed control. The LED current going to 0v will mess it up. The 6k8 CLR (current limit resistor) for the LED should connect from the opamp output pin 6.

[Kevin Mitchell]

As anotherjim said, output is pin six of a UA071/TL071. But I think you know that 
Schematic loaded with mods here

[duck_arse]

your 10uF cap is the speed cap. you seem to have connected it to pin 3 on the opamp, via that blue wire. why so? that's not what the circuit dia shows.

[Kevin Mitchell]

If this is of any use for ya...

[audiobalm]

I wouldn't drive the LED from what is part of the speed control. The LED current going to 0v will mess it up. The 6k8 CLR (current limit resistor) for the LED should connect from the opamp output pin 6.

Bingo, put the LED at the end of Pin 1 and we got a blinking light that adjusts to the speed control. Thanks very much!

[audiobalm]

your 10uF cap is the speed cap. you seem to have connected it to pin 3 on the opamp, via that blue wire. why so? that's not what the circuit dia shows.

Probably hard to see in pictures but the 10UF isn't connected to pin 3. It's on its own connected to 1 of the speed pot and the 150k resistor and ground.

[Kevin Mitchell]

your 10uF cap is the speed cap. you seem to have connected it to pin 3 on the opamp, via that blue wire. why so? that's not what the circuit dia shows.

Probably hard to see in pictures but the 10UF isn't connected to pin 3. It's on its own connected to 1 of the speed pot and the 150k resistor and ground.

You definitely have that blue jumper going to pin 3. It's very obvious in the photo 
Just remove it. Everything else looks okay at a couple quick glances.

Can't fool us 

There's some miscommunication going on with pin numbers. The LED should be powered from a resistor going to pin 6, not pin 1. Pins 1 and 5 are for correcting offset and pin 8 is nothing. All should be left discconected for this situation.

[audiobalm]

your 10uF cap is the speed cap. you seem to have connected it to pin 3 on the opamp, via that blue wire. why so? that's not what the circuit dia shows.

Probably hard to see in pictures but the 10UF isn't connected to pin 3. It's on its own connected to 1 of the speed pot and the 150k resistor and ground.

You definitely have that blue jumper going to pin 3. It's very obvious in the photo 
Just remove it. Everything else looks okay at a couple quick glances.

Can't fool us 

There's some miscomunication going on with pin numbers. The LED should be powered from a resistor going to pin 2, not pin 1. Pin 1 should not have anything. As well as pins 5 and 8.

Shit you're absolutely right. I dunno what I was thinking. Sorry about that. I think I got cross eyed from building it so many times. As soon as I plugged the LED into the output it started blinking. Anyway. And I think the confusion is I'm switching between TL072 to TL071.

Anyway it's all set now I believe with TL071s and so the output should now be pin 6 (not Pin 1)

Thanks again for the help

[Kevin Mitchell]

Anyway it's all set now I believe with TL071s and so the output should now be pin 6 (not Pin 1)

Oh you think I didn't catch my typo? 
You quoted before my correction lol. Glad you got your foot in the door with this!

Also added info on the other pins to my previous post.

[audiobalm]

Anyway it's all set now I believe with TL071s and so the output should now be pin 6 (not Pin 1)

Oh you think I didn't catch my typo? 
You quoted before my correction lol. Glad you got your foot in the door with this!

Also added info on the other pins to my previous post.

I think my foot is more in my mouth than the door but we're getting there. Slowly but surely. I purposely picked a more challenging project to work on to up my skills.

[duck_arse]

your 10uF cap is the speed cap. you seem to have connected it to pin 3 on the opamp, via that blue wire. why so? that's not what the circuit dia shows.

Probably hard to see in pictures but the 10UF isn't connected to pin 3. It's on its own connected to 1 of the speed pot and the 150k resistor and ground.

Can't fool us 

Anyway. And I think the confusion is I'm switching between TL072 to TL071.

not just that, but isn't that a UA741 in that pin3 photo?

[audiobalm]

your 10uF cap is the speed cap. you seem to have connected it to pin 3 on the opamp, via that blue wire. why so? that's not what the circuit dia shows.

Probably hard to see in pictures but the 10UF isn't connected to pin 3. It's on its own connected to 1 of the speed pot and the 150k resistor and ground.

Can't fool us 

Anyway. And I think the confusion is I'm switching between TL072 to TL071.

not just that, but isn't that a UA741 in that pin3 photo?

Possibly. It has the same pinouts as TL071 I was using it in place just to test the LFO

We're on the TL071 now

[audiobalm]

Ok Folks, time to get wacky. Here's the latest update on this Phase 45 Breadboarding Project.

I found all my efforts to force everything into one breadboard created more chaos that I could handle. As such I've split the Schematic into three sections, the ICs, The JFets and the LFO. I've put them on three separate breadboards and wired them all together. Here is the software draft.

Using TL071 to space things out even more and generous use of space and jumper wire, I think I've got these connections correct.

See what you think, I'll board it up soon and see if it works (Fingers crossed emoji). If you spot any errors that would be good to know.

Thanks!

[audiobalm]

 

Ok Folks, I'm happy to say that this breadboarding of the Phase 45 works a treat!

Thanks so much to all of you for your help with this. I thought I'd challenge myself, it definitely was a challenge, I learned a lot in the process, which was the point, and definitely leaned on your support.

Here is the breadboard image, please feel free to use it if you're interested in this project. Now it's time for some MODS!!