I have 3 veroboard circuits ready and want to know if theres any issues or not

[snow123]

Ok, so I have 1 phase 90 circuit done, 1 bluesbreaker circuit done, and 1 green Russian big muff circuit done, and I haven't done any offboard wiring on any of them yet. First 4 pics are the big muff, the second 4 pics are the phase 90, and the last 4 pics are the blues breaker:

big muff:








phase 90:








bluesbreaker:








i just need some verification on if theyre good or not

[snow123]

heres the big muff layout im using:


the phase 90 layout im using:


and the bluesbreaker layout im using

[Gargaman]

Oh man. Guys here are really tough..but this task is like finding a needle in a cornfield
Why don't you solder the main wires? Power, ground, in and out and try? Never heard about rocking before boxing?

[mdcmdcmdc]

I can see spots that look like potential solder bridges between tracks on all three. They may or may not actually be there, but I'd start by scraping the tracks.

[snow123]

Oh man. Guys here are really tough..but this task is like finding a needle in a cornfield
Why don't you solder the main wires? Power, ground, in and out and try? Never heard about rocking before boxing?

i dont have any wire rn to do any offboard wiring

[snow123]

I can see spots that look like potential solder bridges between tracks on all three. They may or may not actually be there, but I'd start by scraping the tracks.

wdym by scraping the tracks?

[Gargaman]

I can see spots that look like potential solder bridges between tracks on all three. They may or may not actually be there, but I'd start by scraping the tracks.

wdym by scraping the tracks?

I guess he meant 'between' the copper rails. Because it looks like solder must be touching from one track to another.
If you have a mini-drill with a disc you could scrap along the space between the tracks.

[Kevin Mitchell]

Eyyyyy welcome back.
Remember, rock before you box.

You'd be doing yourself a great justice by verifying the boards yourself. Get confident with your ability to check your own work. And remember, we'll always be around to lend a hand. Just not this soon! Heaven forbid we say it looks good and then we're left to do all of the debugging for you if it doesn't work 

[snow123]

I can see spots that look like potential solder bridges between tracks on all three. They may or may not actually be there, but I'd start by scraping the tracks.

wdym by scraping the tracks?

I guess he meant 'between' the copper rails. Because it looks like solder must be touching from one track to another.
If you have a mini-drill with a disc you could scrap along the space between the tracks.

ohhhhh, i try to do that with the soldering iron and braid lmao

[snow123]

I can see spots that look like potential solder bridges between tracks on all three. They may or may not actually be there, but I'd start by scraping the tracks.

wdym by scraping the tracks?

I guess he meant 'between' the copper rails. Because it looks like solder must be touching from one track to another.
If you have a mini-drill with a disc you could scrap along the space between the tracks.

like a dremel? if you do mean a dremel then no, i dont have one

[r080]

Do you have a multimeter? You can measure resistance between adjacent tracks that are not supposed to be connected.

You can scrape between the tracks with anything sharp, like a scalpel blade.

[snow123]

yes, i do have a multimeter.

[Kevin Mitchell]

yes, i do have a multimeter.

I'm pretty sure your meter had a continuity setting. In that setting the multimeter will beep if there's a short. Use that as it's less confusing than working out if certain tracks should have the ohm readings you're observing - because you will see resistance across many tracks on any board due to the components having passive resistance.

[mdcmdcmdc]

Side note, but I thought the tracks were the gaps and the traces were the copper?



But yeah, just drag the edge of a flathead screwdriver or similar in the gulley between two copper strip to make sure that no solder has created a bridge between two sections that are supposed to be isolated from one another. On the embiggened versions of the photos it looks like there are a couple spots at least where some solder has spilled over (though it could just be the camera angle etc).

[Gargaman]

Right.
And be carefull, you don't want blood on the tracks.

[ElectricDruid]

But yeah, just drag the edge of a flathead screwdriver or similar in the gulley between two copper strip to make sure that no solder has created a bridge between two sections that are supposed to be isolated from one another.

+1 this. Dremmel or something similar is massive overkill. Just dragging a screwdriver blade down the gaps is usually enough. If it snags on something that won't move, then you can clean it up with the soldering iron.

[snow123]

ok, i just did some reflowing and everything looks good. and 1 more thing, does it matter how big the spaces between the tracks are?

[ElectricDruid]

Not really. "Not touching" is the only crucial thing!

For the future, your soldering looks to me like you need to clean the tip of the iron more often. Another trick that helps is if the veroboard has been out in the air for a little while, it tarnishes (it doesn't happen so fast in a sealed bag). Cleaning it up before you start with a pan scrubber or fine steel wool helps the solder stick to it nicely.

[deadastronaut]

''Cleaning it up before you start with a pan scrubber or fine steel wool helps the solder stick to it nicely''

top vero advice right there...

[duck_arse]

what jfets are you using that you have fitted them reverse to the layout? we need all this info before we can debug whatever it is you present us, otherwise we end-up typing this question over and over.


I'll sound like a dick, but I often do - how do you feel you are progressing with your projects in general, snow123? and no, I don't have any hidden agenda or follow-up quips, I'm just interested.