Opinions on Chipquik No-Clean Water-Washable Solder.

[Aviator18]

I am new to pedal building and soldering PCBs.  I have done some soldering in the past, but nothing this small (it all looks so much bigger in the pictures online than what shows up at the door when you receive the parts ). I bought some 60/40 Chipquik No-Clean Water-Washable solder in 0.31 and .0.20 diameter.  I have always used 60/40 in the past and bought this before I started reading about 63/37 which I wish I would have got instead.  I have never used a water soluble solder before and wonder if it has any serious draw backs.  My question is does anyone have any experience with this solder and how well does it work. I will be using a Xytronic LF-389D soldering station.

Thanks in advance, Jay

[fowl]

I think rather contrary "no clean" and "water-washable" terms refer to the rosin flux, not the solder.  I've used 60/40 and 63/37 and can't really tell any practical difference, so I go with whichever is cheaper.

[Aviator18]

Thanks for the reply, fowl.  I got some 63/37 Chipquik No-Clean Water Washable today and used it a Velleman Universal Mono Pre-Amplifier kit I got from Small Bear for $4.  I figured it would be a good PCB to practice on.  No idea how well the solder worked compared to anything else as I have no previous experience to compare it to.  I started at 600F and later turned it up to 620F. It was definitely a different experience than any previous solder I have done - much smaller scale components.  I have a long ways to go on my technique, but got it done.  I did determine I need better light and magnification.  Any recommendations on what to look for in a magnifying lamp? 

[fowl]

I just use reading glasses, and have a good light over the workbench.

[Aviator18]

I was using my reading glasses and a magnifying glass on a cheap third hand.  The glass on the third hand helped some when it worked, but was very difficult to get positioned right.  Also hard to pick up the iron tip in the small lens when approaching the board. My eyes aren't what they use to be and I can really use some magnification.

[Aviator18]

I got these today:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GWM9QN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They make a real difference. I no longer have to deal with the awkward transition as the iron comes into view and can see much greater detail. $15 well spent!

[fowl]

I bet the chicks dig 'em too.

BTW, what do you aviate?

[Aviator18]

Retired Army helicopter pilot.  I've flown UH-1s, AH-64A and D, UH-60A, L, and M.

[fowl]

Retired Army helicopter pilot.  I've flown UH-1s, AH-64A and D, UH-60A, L, and M.

Nice.  Thanks for your service.  Odd question for you: in the Apaches, how common were failures of the monacle (helmut-mounted) displays?  If that's a sensitive or classified topic, don't answer of course.

[Aviator18]

Monocle is very reliable.  You end up developing the ability to switch vision back and forth between eyes at will, using the left eye to see unaided and the right using the FLIR and symbology that gives you lots of flight data.

[fowl]

Cool, good to hear.  Kind of a long story, but I've wanted to ask an Apache pilot about that for a while.  Don't run into Apache pilots often though.