Pin-header type connectors, Molex? Which for pcb board>board connectors

[Jbassfunk775]

Hi my main issue when building fx with "ready to solder" PCB's is the wiring. Stranded or solid high or low AWG# inevitably at least couple wires break. And more often than not break right at and inside the pcb eyelet, requiring me to reheat the joint attempt to remove the solder as well as the tiny bit of hookup wire stuck in the joint. This takes multiple try's and requires excessive time and heat over stressing the pcb holes and traces. And also often exposing components to heat accidentally on a complete densely packed board.

* If I could get some of the connectors with two, three etc wires and the female connectors which can be snapped in place and removed if necessary I believe this would cut down on mistakes, wire breaks, damaged PCB's and burned components significantly.
I just don't know exactly what type, dimensions, etc needed to fit inside the board/enclosure pad spacing brands etc.. Ive looked on mouser but there's so many variables any help would be greatly appreciated! Thnx

[bean]

I've used these with good success. 2.54mm spacing in several different pin #s.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32954418743.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.457e4c4dbnOzoT

There are some 2mm spacing ones like this you can find. It really just depends on the pad spacing on the board you are building and whether not not you have room. At the very least, the 2-pin used for a DC jack connector means you can easily remove a PCB without having to desolder anything.

[ElectricDruid]

Another "traditional" way of doing this to avoid wires breaking at the PCB is to solder pins in the PCB holes, and wire to the pins. Bonus points if you add heatshrink or sleeving over the joint to help support the wire. This sort of thing:



This came up in another thread recently:

https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=128133.0

Molex-type connectors are good, but expensive, and not every board is set up for their use.

[anotherjim]

I know where you're coming from but...
First, hardwiring is pretty much standard, so question why it isn't working for you.
Are you damaging the wire when you strip it? The slightest nick in the copper from the stripping tool can cause solid wire or strands to break.
Is the wire any good? Some wire intended for crimping can be brittle in the first place and it doesn't take solder too well either. If it isn't bright tinned or a dull looking untinned wire, it's probably no good.
Are you handling it too much? Always try to function test your project before boxing it up!

A halfway measure, especially useful for the DC power jack, is to buy ready-made jumpers with male to female connectors. Cut into two and solder the wires as usual. The connectors will couple in between. RC/Robotics model supplies are a good source for these as they are used for battery & servo connections. You don't care what type of connector it is so long as you have matching male & female ones. Some I got for LiPo batteries have extra-flex wire as used for DMM probes etc.

Other than that, the JST (Also JYK) type are almost an industry standard. It's the pin spacing that will cause trouble. There are 2.54mm (that's 0.1") but also 2mm and 2.5mm around.

[Jbassfunk775]

Are you damaging the wire when you strip it? The slightest nick in the copper from the stripping tool can cause solid wire or strands to break.
Is the wire any good? Some wire intended for crimping can be brittle in the first place and it doesn't take solder too well either. If it isn't bright tinned or a dull looking untinned wire, it's probably no good.
Are you handling it too much? Always try to function test your project before boxing it up!

Hey thanks for taking the time to reply! So in response to your questions;

-Yes I understand hardwiring is the most common method.. And one which I can, and have used more times I could ever count. I prefer it in most situations and actually favor hook-up wire over using 3pdt switch PCB's.
-The wire I use I bought from a diy pedal parts supplier (like smallbear) that went out of business a couple years back (for the life of me I can't remember their name). Better than average pre-tinned #24 awg ptfe jacket. Nice stuff..
-I have good sharp strippers and never bite or scratch the actual conductor.

** You pretty much nailed the cause of breakage and my reasoning for header connectors right here ~> "Are you handling it too much? Always try to function test your project before boxing it up!"

[Jbassfunk775]

-@bean "Mr MadBean"
Thanks so much!! By the way I've always loved the madbean PCB's and the website is a fantastic resource! The articles explaining pcb design (ground planes, via's, multi layer and dual sided tracks) as well as the one explaining and showing in detail the path the signal takes around a pcb was a massive help. Really excellent work!! I just wanted to show my appreciation, so again thank you! 

[bean]

-@bean "Mr MadBean"
Thanks so much!! By the way I've always loved the madbean PCB's and the website is a fantastic resource! The articles explaining pcb design (ground planes, via's, multi layer and dual sided tracks) as well as the one explaining and showing in detail the path the signal takes around a pcb was a massive help. Really excellent work!! I just wanted to show my appreciation, so again thank you! 

Too kind, thank you