Hate waterslides as much as me? Well theres a better option....(Pictures)

[ShadSunsCrash]

Hows that for click bait of the week? Ok but really, i HATE waterslides. Sure ive gotten some decent results with them but the whole process is just unreliable and too time consuming. So i went on a search for better options and I happened on a forum post about using Vinyl sticker paper (printable vinyl paper). So i thought id give it a go.

My current project is a Chasm Reverb with mods. I initially used a waterslide with graphics I designed in Inkscape and after a few attempts placing the waterslide on the pedal i got something passable but after i drilled the enclosure (i normally drill first then do the waterslide design based on a scan of the enclosure but this time i decided to do it the other way around) and i went to take off the frog tape and i had some waterslide lift so i decided to do another but with this new media (vinyl decal/sticker paper).

Now i realize that you can absolutely get great results with waterslides if youre patient and willing to scrap a few. And i also am completely aware that my waterslide in this case lifting with the tape was due to a couple things that certainly could have been avoided. But the point here is that waterslides are time consuming and are just to F'ing fiddly.

So i removed the rest of the waterslide and sanded down the pedal with 400/600 grit sanding film (its great stuff, used for models and such. You can find it online and in places like Hobby Lobby. I prefer to use it and Micro Mesh for finishing. Its great for in-between traditional sandpaper and micro mesh. I found it when i was building my telecaster last year). Anyways so after sanding down the enclosure to level the spots where it had a lip i printed another decal but this time on clear gloss vinyl decal paper i got from Amazon.

After printing the decal i noticed right away it looked great. It looked like a waterslide but with a coat of glaze over it. Now they say you can touch the ink once it dries but i think thats bullshit they say to get people to buy it who wouldnt buy it if they knew they had to seal it. But unlike with waterslides i was able to get away with one coat of Rustoleum crystal clear. After the one coat of Rustoleum had dried the next day i was able to handle the decal without any ink disturbance. Its also important to mention the vinyl had no issues with being clear coated.

Next i cut out the vinyl decal and got it lined up on the pedal. Then i taped one edge down (a trick i learned from placing pickguards on acoustic guitars) after that i used a fresh x acto blade to lift the back from the decal (WAYY easier than i expected. didn't give me any trouble at all). Then i slowly rolled the decal down the pedal while removing the backing as i went. And it looked great. But this was only a tester. I also want to try the sudsy water method which should allow me to adjust the decal just like with waterslides but without having to worry about the decal stretching or the water getting to the ink etc.

So below is a picture of the waterslide with a coat of clear over it and of the vinyl decal with a coat of clear over just the decal. I noticed after placing the vinyl decal down that the OSC ON and OSC OFF where crooked. The rest of the crookedness wasnt an issue since i knew this was just a tester but i corrected the crooked text and other inconsistency's before printing my next batch of vinyl decals.

So I plan on using these vinyl decals from now on for sure. They have a slight edge but that isnt an issue at all to me. With these i can cut right up to the decal and not worry about water ruining the ink on the edges like with waterslides. And they feel really sturdy and dont stretch at all. When i took the vinyl decal off it was on really firm but not so much that i couldnt get it off. It came off cleanly and left no trace of being there. I plan on clear coating over the pedal again once the permanent vinyl decal is in place. I hope this makes someone's life a little easier. Im certainly happy to have found out a better alternative that will save time and money.


Below is the Waterslide (Black Knobs) And the Vinyl Decal (Green Knobs)






EDIT: And heres a picture of the sheet i just printed for the final decal. This is without any clear coat right after being printed.

[iainpunk]

i never did any computer designed graphics on any of my pedals, i always just used paint pen, but my next project is a bit more proffessional so i might give this cool and good method a try

cheers

[GibsonGM]

Nope, no good, man.  It's too easy!! 

[ShadSunsCrash]

LOL

See thats what i was thinking, everyone knows the pedal sounds better when you work much harder than you need to on the aesthetics. And those NOS waterslides are the best!

[amptramp]

I'm still waiting for someone to modify a printer so it can print right on a painted aluminum enclosure.  This could even work for etched enclosures - just print the resist.  But until that happens, this looks like one of the best methods.

[ElectricDruid]

I'm still waiting for someone to modify a printer so it can print right on a painted aluminum enclosure.  This could even work for etched enclosures - just print the resist.  But until that happens, this looks like one of the best methods.

That's a UV printer, isn't it? The trouble is the price of the damn things!

[schrectacular]

I've recently found a pretty decent method - not quite as easy as this I suppose. I print the plate with a laser printer on photo paper, color it with sharpies (if desired), glue it on with Elmer's glue, then cover with epoxy. Dealing with the epoxy is a bit annoying but easy enough. And I really like the shiny, hard finish. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

[Jarno]

I do not hate waterslides, although it is a finicky process, but vinyl is also easy to f up. Also, the waterslides are compatible with clearcoat and do not yellow (much) over time, both of which are uncertain for vinyl stickers.
I have used them for synth modules, using a laser printer to print them.
But yeah, let's hope uv printing equipment gets cheaper, that would be fantastic.

[schrectacular]

Ok here are some examples, I'll do these chronologically. The general idea is the same - do something on the box then seal it with "artist's epoxy resin".

First idea was to paint on the box with paint marker. That works well but requires artistic talent  . The rocket turned out really well I think, but it was mostly straight lines. I included a second image to show the mirror-glaze. Makes it look very clean and professional in my unprofessional optionion. The Naga Viper my wife did and she's an artist.



Next idea was to print something out and paste it underneath. I had previously tried paper but it just gets wet and doesn't look good. So I tried some "waterproof" paper. The result doesn't look bad but the marbling was not intentional.



So then I decided to use photo paper. This works really well I think. It doesn't soak up the water, is easy to color with Sharpies, and is generally easy to work with.



I think your vinyl method is definitely faster; the bit downside of my method is having to deal with the epoxy. It's sticky and doesn't smell great, and you have to use a hairdryer or heat gun to get the bubbles out. It also has a tendency to drip down the sides. If you are careful you can keep the surface tension, and you can wipe it if it drips.

A few additional tips that I've found useful:

• Use a kitchen scale to weigh the portions. Poor slowly so when you get near your desired number (you don't need much, like 6 grams will cover a pedal fine) and just as it ticks over, stop and tare the scale. Do the same and you'll get it even and it will set hard.
• Pour the epoxy into a small plastic bag. This makes it super easy to mix up. Cut a corner off the bag and it's easy to apply evenly to the face. I use a plastic spoon to spread the epoxy.
• Find a less dusty place to do the epoxying. Cover the pedal with a cardboard box to keep the dust out while it cures.

Sorry for co-opting your post. Figure it fits given the title. Hope it inspires someone!