Calibrating Flintlock, Blueshif and Countdown

Started by matopotato, January 26, 2022, 08:19:18 AM

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matopotato

I am about to build a Blueshift from Aion FX (fingers crossed, recrossed and crossed again) and there is a section about calibration using a tonegenerator and oscilloscope.
I have seen an oscilloscope in a DMM (https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Handheld-Scopemeter-Oscilloscope-Multimeter/dp/B016DE1VXG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8)
Would that work, or is a "bigger" oscilloscope needed?
It can also measure frequency/Hz so it could fulfill needs if I build Flintlock and Countdown projects from Lectrix-FX.

Is there some simple way to get a test tone into a pedal without buying a tone generator? Say from an app in the phone out to the pedal. Somehow?

Apologies if this was obvious if I had only searched deeper....

"Should have breadboarded it first"

Invertiguy

I used a cheap DSO138 oscilloscope kit and an XR2206 function generator kit off of Amazon to calibrate my Blueshift (as well as my Flange-A-Rama and E.Nigma? builds from Dead End FX) and they worked just fine so I see no reason why that unit wouldn't. I had to use my DMM to measure the frequency of the signal so having that function integrated into it is definitely a huge plus. Of course a larger, more fully featured scope with dual channels and a higher bandwidth is preferable but for most stuff we deal with in the pedal world is probably unnecessary, so don't fret if you're not willing to spend big bucks on a 'real' scope quite yet because you can get quite a bit of mileage out of the cheap stuff.

eh la bas ma

#2
On Blueshift, there is a reasonably large aera in both trimmers rotation (around the center), you can tell if it's working just by listening. There is also the voltage reading, if i remember correctly, trimmers are biasing two ICs that need from 3.4V to 3.6V to work properly.

Flintlock on the other hand, an oscilloscope can probably be helpful to achieve the best possible sweep and save some time on calibration, but it's really do-able without it in my experience. I remember there was some distortion I couldn't supress at the top-end of the sweep, I had to lower the range from 2.6Mhz to 2.2 Mhz to fix this.

Great modulations, you're going to be pleased with these builds...
"One Cannot derogate, by particular conventions, from the Laws which relate to public Order and good Morals." Article 6 of the Civil Code.
"We must not confuse what we are and what society has made of us." Theodor W. Adorno.

danfrank

#3
Here's an online tone generator that is adequate to calibrate with:

https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/

With the Blueshift, it's easy to dial in one of the chorus BBDs but the second one is harder because the 2nd chorus is transposed on top of the first... It's kind of hard to detect unless you know what to listen for. An oscilloscope makes this easy.

matopotato

Quote from: Invertiguy on January 26, 2022, 09:23:56 AM
I used a cheap DSO138 oscilloscope kit and an XR2206 function generator kit off of Amazon to calibrate my Blueshift (as well as my Flange-A-Rama and E.Nigma? builds from Dead End FX) and they worked just fine so I see no reason why that unit wouldn't. I had to use my DMM to measure the frequency of the signal so having that function integrated into it is definitely a huge plus. Of course a larger, more fully featured scope with dual channels and a higher bandwidth is preferable but for most stuff we deal with in the pedal world is probably unnecessary, so don't fret if you're not willing to spend big bucks on a 'real' scope quite yet because you can get quite a bit of mileage out of the cheap stuff.
Thanks. There is a setup in Sweden online where you can borrow equipment from people, and one guy had that kind of DMM. There were some oscilloscopes as well. 1 day's rent is between say 5 to 15 USD...
"Should have breadboarded it first"

matopotato

Quote from: eh la bas ma on January 26, 2022, 12:29:54 PM
On Blueshift, there is a reasonably large aera in both trimmers rotation (around the center), you can tell if it's working just by listening. There is also the voltage reading, if i remember correctly, trimmers are biasing two ICs that need from 3.4V to 3.6V to work properly.

Flintlock on the other hand, an oscilloscope can probably be helpful to achieve the best possible sweep and save some time on calibration, but it's really do-able without it in my experience. I remember there was some distortion I couldn't supress at the top-end of the sweep, I had to lower the range from 2.6Mhz to 2.2 Mhz to fix this.

Great modulations, you're going to be pleased with these builds...
Thanks  ;D
"Should have breadboarded it first"

matopotato

Quote from: danfrank on January 26, 2022, 08:32:49 PM
Here's an online tone generator that is adequate to calibrate with:

https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/

With the Blueshift, it's easy to dial in one of the chorus BBDs but the second one is harder because the 2nd chorus is transposed on top of the first... It's kind of hard to detect unless you know what to listen for. An oscilloscope makes this easy.
Thanks, great hints!
I am a bit lost on how to get the signal out from computer of phone into the pedal. Perhaps headphone 3,5mm output to some 6,35mm plug kind of cable solution can be designed...
I tried a tone generator app on the phone and push through a pickup (like the TC Electronic Toneprint way) And it could work, but does not sound very clean 8kHz.
"Should have breadboarded it first"