EQD Tentacle Clone Troubleshooting

[airvian]

Hello Hello!
Lately, I have been revisiting old builds of mine, trying to fix stuff I never finished or never really worked, making boxes for them etc. Now I am currently working on an old vero board EQD tentacle I made several years ago I think (I believe it was my first or second build at the time). It seemed to work fine after some troubleshooting but I have the following issues now: there is a loud static pop when switching it on (that it seems to transfer to other pedals too - when it is not in the signal chain there is no pop anywhere) and there seems to be some signal bleeding through/discharging after switching it off. After switching it off, for a couple of seconds it quietly 'discharges' signal from the circuit. The signal it discharges has octave in it and I can't hear any clean signal coming through. After it finishes after a couple of seconds the signal passes through normally. Does anyone have an idea why that is? I have a feeling the static and the residual signal that passes through after switching the pedal off are connected in some way.
EDIT: I should clarify that the signal that gets discharged isn't sound that has been played before but stuff that gets played that still somehow passes through the circuit after a couple of seconds. So it isn't like a loop but more of a: switch off - tiny period where sound is normal - tiny period of no noise passing through - a couple of seconds of lower noise octave sound coming through - signal normally passing through without any octave at normal level.

[idy]

This is a green ringer clone, an octave fuzz. The layout is from tagboard effects, but we don't really need it because the board works fine... maybe.

Still:Did you change any values? That R at the end that the layout (and schematics) calls 47k looks like blue grey black red, 68k. And the C it is discharging, specified at 100n, looks like a tantalum. Polarity? Value? And there are lots of suspicious solder globs that suggest shorts on the back and even some globs on top.

You have something wrong with the bypass scheme.

It could be a bad switch.

You will need to double check the intended function of the mystery bypass board. You don't need it, although I appreciate the neatness factor. It is impossible to remove it without destroying the switch.

Are you clear how the bypass is expected to work? The signal path and LED switching, what goes where? You need to figure that out. 9 terminals. What is each one connected to?

[airvian]

This is a green ringer clone, an octave fuzz. The layout is from tagboard effects, but we don't really need it because the board works fine... maybe.

Still:Did you change any values? That R at the end that the layout (and schematics) calls 47k looks like blue grey black red, 68k. And the C it is discharging, specified at 100n, looks like a tantalum. Polarity? Value? And there are lots of suspicious solder globs that suggest shorts on the back and even some globs on top.

You have something wrong with the bypass scheme.

It could be a bad switch.

You will need to double check the intended function of the mystery bypass board. You don't need it, although I appreciate the neatness factor. It is impossible to remove it without destroying the switch.

Are you clear how the bypass is expected to work? The signal path and LED switching, what goes where? You need to figure that out. 9 terminals. What is each one connected to?

Yes I did change the circuit. When I first got it back out from the bottom of a box it didn't really work at all, so it at least functioning and sounding good when it is turned on is a tiny success. I found that two transistors were switched around. I also put in a mod to increase the gain by putting a 100uF cap in series with a resistor from Q1 (emitter) to ground. I also put a 68k resistor at the end to increase the volume a bit. The output cap is a standard ceramic one (it just looks like a tantalum cap but it is just a normal ceramic that's glossy for some reason...). I used my multimeter to check for shorts but I couldn't find any. The board should work as intended as I use those all the time (they're just some cheap ones from amazon that follow the standard true bypass 3pdt switch wiring - I hate wiring switches by hand). A dead switch could be a possiblity, but I don't understand how there would be signal leaking through after it is turned off... You say I have something wrong with the wiring scheme though. Could you specify what you mean? As the bugs I get are so weird I was thinking about just redoing the whole thing on perf which would also get rid of the unnecessary resistor and pin at the top right of the board (I always put the CLRs on the breakout board which I also wire the LED to) and would probably end up looking a lot neater as well as this was one of my first ever builds.

[idy]

I was asking how the bypass board works.
In jack to pin?
out jack to pin?
board in to pin?
Board out to pin?
"jumpers" on the board that permanently link two pins?
Are there grounded pins to mute/discharge the board in bypass?
Even the LED, which pins?

If that is a normal bypass board properly used, nothing on the board could possible cause the problem you describe, except popping. Apparently the switch is not disconnecting signal from board in bypass. Why not?

Maybe not a dead switch, maybe slight solder bridge, maybe poor contact inside. This circuit is not high gain so "wires too close together near the switch" is less likely but still a thing to check out.

[airvian]

I was asking how the bypass board works.
In jack to pin?
out jack to pin?
board in to pin?
Board out to pin?
"jumpers" on the board that permanently link two pins?
Are there grounded pins to mute/discharge the board in bypass?
Even the LED, which pins?

If that is a normal bypass board properly used, nothing on the board could possible cause the problem you describe, except popping. Apparently the switch is not disconnecting signal from board in bypass. Why not?

Maybe not a dead switch, maybe slight solder bridge, maybe poor contact inside. This circuit is not high gain so "wires too close together near the switch" is less likely but still a thing to check out.

Thanks for the input. The problem I described left me puzzled that's why I consuted the forum as I couldn't find an explenation. I took your lead regarding the output cap. I switched it for a 100nF red box poly cap and the popping and the weird bug both vanished so it is all working as intended now. Thanks for taking the time!!