Alpha SR26F rotary switch

[baloubass]

Hello everyone, does know how this switch work about the pin configuration please.
On the data sheet, I didn't find anything about the pin etc...
Thanks
The switch: https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/Alpha-Taiwan/SR2612F-0205-18F5B-D8-S?qs=yA6kp8fx8Y6aXQS1Udu%2FiQ%3D%3D

Pdf: https://www.mouser.fr/datasheet/2/13/taiwanalpha_12112018_SR2612F-1509903.pdf

[PRR]

It says but not clearly. There is a little tiny arrow on the PDF sheet. From terminal A to terminal 1. Turn the shaft counterclockwise. Use your ohmmeter (with clip-leads) to check continuity from A to 1. Then if you turn the shaft you should have connection from A to 2, A to 3, etc.



Since you bought a 2P 5T switch, there may be no sixth position (an internal pin blocks it).

Where is your other pole? I *suspect* they would use terminal C, and terminals 7 to 11. Mirror image of the first section.

[anotherjim]

I think there's a typo and it's a 6 throw. Those include a separate tab washer you can fit to make it only 5 throw or less if that's what you need. Note that part is a "shorting" switch type or "make before break"  so be sure your application doesn't mind the temporary bridge between contacts when switching. Shorting is good for jobs like guitar pickup selectors while non-shorting is the more usual "break before make" changeover action.

Contacts arrangement as Paul has marked in pink for one of the two poles. The other pole would indeed be common "C" and 7 thru 12 switched. It's a little confusing as the same body markings are for 1P12T, 2P6T, 3P4T and 4P3T versions.

[PRR]

I think there's a typo...

The Subject says 26, the link is to the 25 version. As you say they are all the same except a pin/tab.

[baloubass]

Hello thank you so much for your answer.
I had in mind about the same thing for the operation.
i will order one to make my taste.

I think there's a typo and it's a 6 throw. Those include a separate tab washer you can fit to make it only 5 throw or less if that's what you need. Note that part is a "shorting" switch type or "make before break"  so be sure your application doesn't mind the temporary bridge between contacts when switching. Shorting is good for jobs like guitar pickup selectors while non-shorting is the more usual "break before make" changeover action.

Contacts arrangement as Paul has marked in pink for one of the two poles. The other pole would indeed be common "C" and 7 thru 12 switched. It's a little confusing as the same body markings are for 1P12T, 2P6T, 3P4T and 4P3T versions.

Can you explain me more about the shorting and non shorting please.
i'm looking to use it in pedal.
Thanks

[anotherjim]

Shorting -  as you turn the shaft from 1 to 2, position 1 remains in contact with the common when 2 first makes contact to it. When position 2 "click" detent is reached, 1 breaks its contact. There is a period when both contacts make to the common pin in between detent clicks. The usage of "shorting" refers to a "short circuit" meaning a direct electrical connection between two things.
Non-shorting - as you turn the shaft from 1 to 2, 1 first breaks contact with the common before 2 makes contact with it. There is a period in-between position detents when none of the contacts makes to the common pin.

What type is best depends on your specific application? So, selecting between capacitor values in an audio filter it may be best to use shorting where it's better to momentarily have 2 caps in parallel in between clicks to maintain the signal path while a non-shorting type could cause audible click/pop noise when it monetarily completely disconnects the signal path.

[baloubass]

Shorting -  as you turn the shaft from 1 to 2, position 1 remains in contact with the common when 2 first makes contact to it. When position 2 "click" detent is reached, 1 breaks its contact. There is a period when both contacts make to the common pin in between detent clicks. The usage of "shorting" refers to a "short circuit" meaning a direct electrical connection between two things.
Non-shorting - as you turn the shaft from 1 to 2, 1 first breaks contact with the common before 2 makes contact with it. There is a period in-between position detents when none of the contacts makes to the common pin.

What type is best depends on your specific application? So, selecting between capacitor values in an audio filter it may be best to use shorting where it's better to momentarily have 2 caps in parallel in between clicks to maintain the signal path while a non-shorting type could cause audible click/pop noise when it monetarily completely disconnects the signal path.

Ok, thank for your answer.
I will use it to create a phasor stage selector. I will put it in different point for a selection between 2,4,6,8,12 stage. If i understand, it seems the shorting will be good for this application. The non-shorting will work to but with a sort of cutting.

[anotherjim]

Actually, for switching phase stages, it will probably mean momentarily shorting the outputs together. Normally, that isn't ideal for whatever drives the outputs, but as the DC bias voltage is usually very similar at each output and the signal voltage swing is small, the shorting won't do any harm, so yes, the shorting type should mean less of a click in the audio. A caveat, those Alpha rotary switches, in my experience, can still produce contact bounce even with the shorting type so sometimes still have a momentary break in contact!
There are better quality switches (I think the Alpha are cheap copies)...
https://lorlinelectronics.co.uk/product/ck
...but the Alpha are easy to find and work ok, just don't overheat when soldering, the plastic body is easy to melt and the contacts move out of line inside.

[MikeA]

...but the Alpha are easy to find and work ok, just don't overheat when soldering, the plastic body is easy to melt and the contacts move out of line inside.

Thanks for this insight, a while back I used one that tested good before installation, but was faulty afterward and it did seem that the contacts were misaligned.  I probably overheated and the contacts shifted.  I hate it when there's a mysterious failure, but it now makes sense.

[baloubass]

Actually, for switching phase stages, it will probably mean momentarily shorting the outputs together. Normally, that isn't ideal for whatever drives the outputs, but as the DC bias voltage is usually very similar at each output and the signal voltage swing is small, the shorting won't do any harm, so yes, the shorting type should mean less of a click in the audio. A caveat, those Alpha rotary switches, in my experience, can still produce contact bounce even with the shorting type so sometimes still have a momentary break in contact!
There are better quality switches (I think the Alpha are cheap copies)...
https://lorlinelectronics.co.uk/product/ck
...but the Alpha are easy to find and work ok, just don't overheat when soldering, the plastic body is easy to melt and the contacts move out of line inside.

Thank for your answer.
It's seems the good one with Lorlin is :https://www.mouser.fr/ProductDetail/Lorlin/CK1055?qs=VJkHNLJxjTc5i6L%2FV4Cajg%3D%3D
It's a 6 way but look like to have an adjustable stop.
If i can't adjust the stop, i will put one more phase stage.
The real game will be put it inside a 1590bb with all the other components