Juggler 4 (CMOS Effects Order Switching) Clarification (4013 Flipflop Too)

[anotherjim]

Yes, just like that. They will connect to 0v, but only when the Q output does. When the Q goes to a 1 state when the FX are engaged, the diodes will be reverse biased and can't do anything.

[Andon]

So I breadboarded this this morning, and the LED flashes in time with the LFO (success there!), but neither of the switches work. I double checked my connections, and it all seems correct when compared to the schematic, so is there perhaps something I messed up on the schematic? Here is the latest version:



Full size available here: https://i.imgur.com/2WqBI8N.png

The BAT41 diodes connect to pin 13 on the 4013 and not ground, correct? And the FXOUT should be from pins 1 and 5 of the effects switching 4053 into pin 1 of the bypass 4053, correct?

The only things I've done different are doing away with R6 from the anode of the dual LED, as it seemed redundant (and didn't make a difference whether it was in the design or not). I also haven't connected the respective effects, but I figured that the switching would work regardless since the inputs and outputs are all biased to 4.5V.

As a side note, this whole configuration - even with the LFO - only draws about 30mA, which is impressive.

[anotherjim]

You have got momentary switches to operate it? Don't use latching ones.
See what the voltage is on the 4013 Q outputs. It should change between 0v and 9v every time you operate the switch.

[Andon]

Yup, momentary. I'll check voltages when I get home tonight!

[Andon]

So on the 4013 pin 1 is a constant 0V regardless, and pin 13 is a constant 2.86+/- regardless. The LED is a red/blue dual LED, and is flashing a purplish color in time with the LED with no probing, BUT when I connect the multimeter probe to pin 1 it flashes a pretty solid red, and on pin 13 it flashes a pretty solid blue. Current draw is now around 53mA for some reason - haven't changed anything.

[anotherjim]

Shouldn't get those voltages on logic chip pins. Check all pins that either connect to the +supply or 0v.
Do the power strips of the breadboard need linking up? Photos would help.

[Andon]

All voltage readings seem nominal (ground is around 0.01V, V+ is 9.3V, VREF is 4.3V-4.5V). I can get the bypass switch to turn off the effect, but it doesn't turn it back on. Also, if I move R2 (10K to 9V, shown just to the left of the black ground wire at the top of the first picture and to the right of the two 0 ohm resistors) I can get it to switch between red and blue on the LED, which points to a typical breadboarding issue, but I can't tell what, since everything SEEMS to be seated properly.

Here are some breadboard shots:

Top view:



Top view full size: https://i.imgur.com/TucdnB3.jpg

Front view:



Front view full size: https://i.imgur.com/uYYhksJ.jpg

Back view:



Back view full size: https://i.imgur.com/M8h8QLt.jpg

Power rails on the top of the breadboard are 9V and ground, and power rails on the bottom of the breadboard are 4.5V and ground, with ground rails connected via wire. Bottom momentary switch (closest to bottom rails) is bypass, top momentary switch (closest to top rails) is effects order.

[anotherjim]

Ok, that's a very dense breadboard. It looks like the power strips are continuous - some have a break in the middle, yours are ok.

Start with the operation of the switch and Q1. Q1 voltages should be pins 1=0v, 2=around 0.7v and 3=0v. When switch is pressed, then  2=0v and 3=9v. When switch is released, then 3=0v.
Then U1a. pins 4 & 6 are 0v? Pins 2 and 5 are the same voltage? Pins 1 and 2 have different voltage. If pin 1 or 2 can't get near 9v then disconnect everything from them except the link to pin5 to show if something else is shorting them out.
Check R5 and R4 are 10k and not something lower like 1k.

The same procedure for Q4 and U1b.