Flangelicious…oh no!

Started by Matthew Sanford, February 20, 2023, 05:06:45 PM

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Matthew Sanford

So, everything was going so well and building confidence in my soldering skills till I found I'd put the 7805 backwards (and Tom's printing and instructions are perfect, this was my brain fart). When pulling it out it seems I was rough and pulled the through hole plating out, so NC and turning the tl072 end of the 9v to <6v...

Is it possible to replate the insides of the hole with solder, or is it a buy a new PCB situation?

"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

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aron

You can use a jumper wire or resistor lead like we do for perfboard to make the connection. I've done it before when the trace got damaged. I wish I had one of those desoldering stations to take out ICs.

PRR

Quote from: Matthew Sanford on February 20, 2023, 05:06:45 PMIs it possible to replate the insides of the hole with solder, or is it a buy a new PCB situation?

PCB is for saving time and money.

If you already made a mess of it, and don't have a new PCB at your elbow, you can patch-up ANYthing with little bits of wire. It only has to make (reliable!) connection, not look beautiful.
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bean


Matthew Sanford

Ok, believe in the fix is what I hear. It's double sided, you can see where it goes under the 7805




I think it's enamel, but I might try filling it with copper tape around the pins to hold the solder. Thanks for the encouragement!
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

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ElectricDruid

Probably why it pulled the through-hole plating out is because you've used a TO-220 package 7805 regulator. The little T092 package 78L05 is more than enough - it's only powering one chip, after all!

One other thing, while I think about it; try to use a multiturn trimmer for the clock balance at least. The Res trim isn't so fussy, but getting the clock balance just right helps limit the background noise as much as possible.

Good luck, and keep us posted!

Matthew Sanford

Reporting back, little bits of wire for the win! At least I made it through the power test, which showed my error - I had coffee when it explicitly stated tea.

Next to put the rest together
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

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Matthew Sanford

Reporting back (again...)

The previous bits of wire decided to be inconsistent, ordered another with the other chip set figuring it was done...then I realized I'd left the 78L05 leads long so to soldered them to the previous or next in line and...it works!



Power test went well, put the pots, off board, and chips in. Finally took a moment to test and it's not working properly. The guitar goes through with it on albeit without much treble, but not much else going on. There is a very low distortion on the signal, and the middle pots add in clicking when turned down, can howl when up (though it cuts if I tap a cap), and the bal&res trims don't seem to change anything. Not that I'll have time soon (doing drywall etc to hurry my kid back into his room and get stuff our stuff back from the home insurance), but any ideas on how I should test from here? I figure with the treble cut it must be sort of working (or an accidental LPF), plus clock noise, etc...but not sure why it isn't getting going.

I'll try to get voltages on chips when I get more "free" time
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

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ElectricDruid

When you get back to it, you can try this too. This is some debugging points for the audio through the Flangelicious:


(1) is the input buffer output
(2) is the input mixer output
(3) is the pre-delay filter output
(4) is the BBD output
(5) is the post-delay filter output

If you've got dry signal but nothing flanging, it sounds like there's a problem in the wet path somewhere, so if you audio probe those points, we'll be able to see how far it gets before it dies.

One other thing: Your comment about "without much treble" is interesting because the Flangelicious actually uses a Pre-emphasis/De-emphasis scheme which means that signals after the input mixer actually have *boosted* treble. So it's possible there's something fishy going on there. But we need to get it working first, so we'll come back to this later if necessary.

Good luck with dry walling!

duck_arse


(ED - ask him for some photos of the component side build, so we can look at caps and values.)
" I will say no more "

ElectricDruid

Quote from: duck_arse on April 28, 2023, 11:30:00 AM

(ED - ask him for some photos of the component side build, so we can look at caps and values.)

You ask him! I'm busy ;)

Matthew Sanford

#11
Duck, it's the ones from the BOM https://electricdruid.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/05/FlangeliciousConstructionGuide.pdf

But I had one I took awhile back... should be the same now...



EDIT: to add the page with schematics https://electricdruid.net/flangelicious-a-super-dooper-flanger/ ...and that I remembered audio probe while walking the pup with my mind on the circuit paths
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

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Matthew Sanford

#12
Ok, took a few minutes...

I checked with an audio probe and did hear some flange (bbd tap and post filter out, light distortion too), got excited, figured out my out jack wasn't solid to ground so fixed it and ran it through the amp...no flange, but I had adjusted all the pots. So testing those, the depth pot (2nd from left pot side with them on top) gives singnal turned all the way down, starts oscillating when turned up turning in to clock noise well before halfway. The manual pot (left side) interacts with it but can go past half (I think) before being clock. With them turned down some, the whine is at all the points Tom mentioned, and even at the board input. So it does make it through if those two are turned low, other pots didn't affect it (well, bal trim changed whine frequency, best in the middle). Through that the flange wasn't really there, but I should mention the distortion wasn't really there on the low E, more as the pitch was higher, then at the top high D (22nd fret) was almost metal or at least the most distortion.

Voltages:
TL072 (top)
1. 4.63
2. 4.74
3. 4.75
4. 0
5. 4.75
6. 4.74
7. 4.74
8. 9.59

TL072 (bottom)
1. 4.74
2. 4.74
3. 4.74
4. 0
5. 4.74
6. 4.76
7. 4.76
8. 9.58

BBD
1. 0
2. 3.97
3. 3.03
4. 0
5. 5.03
6. 3.96
7. 2.05
8. 2.05

FLANGE
1. 5
2. 3.97
3. 3.96
4. 5.01
5. 5.03
6. 2.48
7. 4.16
8. 3.16

TR
E 3.16
B 3.5
C 9.6







Guess I should mention I didn't do the 3PDT as shown in the build instructions, so left (1, in, 2) nada, 9v, LED, middle is in Jack, out Jack, out to board, and right is ground(from led and to input ring), in to board, tied to in Jack. The in and out jacks sleeves are tied to their respective grounds on the board.

(Edit for quick thought: Do you think because I tied the 78L05 9v and ground pins to each side of the diode instead of the 100n right after that it would cause these issues? I'll switch that when I get a chance, just realized I removed that power cap and put it on a side branch instead of prior to the regulator...)...further edit, 5v going straight to flange chip instead of 47u. I'm going to correct these errors and report back, guessing the 5v isn't getting to those pots correctly.
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

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bluebunny

#13
You appear to have no ground (0V) connection on the flange chip - pin 8.  Check your solder connections around that area.  And your replacement voltage regulator (78L05) is facing the same way as the previous one (7805), but they have opposite pinouts.
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Ohm's Law - much like Coles Law, but with less cabbage...

Matthew Sanford

Thank you Marc. The original chip was backwards in that photo, me using the wrong one and starting the mess (pulling out vias)... so I put a new 78L05 now for good measure, put the 9v pin to the 100n and 5v to + on 47u. Ground went to the diode ground side, it didn't like the other side of the 100n. That cleared up all the power issues on the ic sockets, and now it works! I can't seem to ditch the clock noise (sounds like an aquarium), but I kinda like it.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-4_GIeeiEUVGwe0gsoDXPBWEp3gHlrVV

I haven't played around with it to much, did record some short things but the headphones weren't working during so mostly knobs all up (except rate). I did lower the res trim before the last and centered the bal one during...and maybe turned things down.

I'm guessing the distortion is the resonance turned all the way up letting the diode clip through, but that's how I like flange, like an airplane!...but maybe I'll find that thing I read by Tom on changing a resistor for hotter pickups.

Anyway, I really like it so far! Time for a box and a tap so the planes land when I want!
"The only knowledge is knowing you know nothing" - that Sew Crates guy

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