another Valvecaster question

Started by rangermaster, April 04, 2023, 04:45:00 AM

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rangermaster

#20
tnx everyone for all the advice.

I already started yesterday by changing some components.

i also found this online: https://www.aronnelson.com/DIYFiles/up/12AU7-6111_Valve_Caster_Summary.pdf

here is my list of parts that i have right now:
C1: 22nF
C2: 22nF
C3: Still have to solder this one in but not sure which value is best in this position because i find a lot of different values online in this position. (maybe a 3-way switch for more tonal options?)
C4: Removed
R1: 1M
R2: 100K
R3: 220K
R4: 470K




GibsonGM

The value of C3 isn't critical, some use 1u, some use half that.  I would get it working first, and then change it if you want to :)  Putting it on a switch now would complicate things, I fear.
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antonis

You can decide for C1, C2 & C3 values by calculating respective C1/R1, C2/R4 & C3/VOL pot HPFs corner frequencies, using the 159/R*C formula..
(R in kilo-Ohms and C in micro-Farads)
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rangermaster

Quote from: GibsonGM on April 05, 2023, 04:53:34 AM
The value of C3 isn't critical, some use 1u, some use half that.  I would get it working first, and then change it if you want to :)  Putting it on a switch now would complicate things, I fear.

yes it works already. i put the 1uF(c3) back.

maybe i can put a 3-way switch in to make it possible to switch input values. I've read that a 22nF on the input in better for humbuckers and so it doesn't get that muddy sounding. So if i can make it switchable with for example a 10nF, 22nF and a 47nF he can choose what he likes best.


rangermaster

Quote from: antonis on April 05, 2023, 05:02:23 AM
You can decide for C1, C2 & C3 values by calculating respective C1/R1, C2/R4 & C3/VOL pot HPFs corner frequencies, using the 159/R*C formula..
(R in kilo-Ohms and C in micro-Farads)

Yes, but I think I need to get some more knowledge of these formulas first  :icon_lol:

antonis

"I'm getting older while being taught all the time" Solon the Athenian..
"I don't mind  being taught all the time but I do mind a lot getting old" Antonis the Thessalonian..

GibsonGM

I believe the input cap (C1) will give you the most control over bass content.   When I build things like this, I use the stock input cap...it is often shown here as 47n.  If you place another 47n in series with it, you will have a total of 22n ("23.5n")  so you can see what that sounds like with both SC and HBs.  Once you find 2 values you like, more 'options' are most often not needed, but that's up to you.   Math is not required - trying a few values of cap by ear is usually more than sufficient and more informative!

To switch from 47n to 22n, you can use a switch to close a jumper across the additional 47n cap and short it.

The output cap CAN trim bass, but as-is it could be taken to be simply "all pass"...
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rangermaster

#27
i completed the pedal.

i installed a 2.2n, 22n and a 47n on a 3-way switch and this works great.

thanks for all the help.