Power from adapter does not power pedal

[antonis]

I'm not sure what we're talking about anymore..

[GibsonGM]

One could use a simple continuity test with a DMM or ohm meter to be sure it is wired correctly...or to prove to themselves how the switching works.

[bluebunny]

I believe your DC socket is indeed wired correctly.  But I can't tell if your battery -ve (black) lead is wired via the input jack socket.  That's mostly my problem because I'm not overly familiar with the type of socket you've used and I'm too tired to work it out for myself.  But either way, the intention of the switched or stereo input socket is that the battery is only connected when there's a lead plugged into the input socket.  Were you checking for battery power with a guitar lead plugged in?

[Badcircuit]

I'm sorry to be such a dunce.  I'm sure it is something stupid. 

One more thing I noticed, when the pedal is plugged into the amp and on the adapter power, when I put the guitar plug in, the pedal shuts off. 

I really appreciate your patience with me.  We all have to start somewhere.

[Badcircuit]

This is the diagram I used to build the pedal.

https://postimg.cc/SYN61Fwn

[bamslam69]

OP, I went off that picture for my last build and stuffed up also.
The main issue is with the way that switched dc jack is drawn. Its not really that clear.

Look up the specs & pin out for that switched dc jack, that way you can determine your wiring your 9v supply and battery lead correctly.

Same goes for the stereo phone jacks, and the switching on the input jack.

I've made a little book full of cheatsheets for quick reference.
Drill sizes, pinout diagrams, even one for LED leg polarity! It's a helpful guide.

Keep at it, you'll get there!

[bluebunny]

I'm sorry to be such a dunce.  I'm sure it is something stupid. 

One more thing I noticed, when the pedal is plugged into the amp and on the adapter power, when I put the guitar plug in, the pedal shuts off. 

I really appreciate your patience with me.  We all have to start somewhere.

Oh, it's always something really daft!      Don't worry, we've all been there...

If the pedal shuts down when you plug your guitar in, then I think you might have something mis-wired badly enough to short the power and upset the protection magic in the PSU (which is what's shutting down).

[GibsonGM]

Using a DMM, ensure the barrel of the power supply is in fact CENTER NEGATIVE, exterior sleeve positive.  I forget if you said that your adapter works with other pedals, does not hurt to be sure it is a "Boss" type and that it has voltage present when plugged in.  If it was dead it would mimic 'shutting off' when you plug it in.

Verify that the input jack is wired correctly, and that ring and sleeve are both grounded when a cord is plugged in (refer to drawing posted previous page).   Then verify the correct DC jack tab goes to the sleeve of that jack.    Look up the 'pinout' for your jacks if you must, there is no shame in that. 

Be sure the jack is wired as described in this article: http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/pedalpower/

[Badcircuit]

I've decided to rebuild the layout using Adonis' recommended schematic.

[antonis]

There is no difference from the one you've used, as far as power and IN-OUT jacks is concerned..

[GibsonGM]

I've decided to rebuild the layout using Adonis' recommended schematic.

ADONIS??        That's far better than "sir"...


"Adonis, like Narcissus, was a beautiful youth in Greek mythology. He was loved by both Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty, and Persephone, goddess of the underworld."

[bamslam69]

Using a DMM, ensure the barrel of the power supply is in fact CENTER NEGATIVE, exterior sleeve positive.  I forget if you said that your adapter works with other pedals, does not hurt to be sure it is a "Boss" type and that it has voltage present when plugged in.  If it was dead it would mimic 'shutting off' when you plug it in.

Verify that the input jack is wired correctly, and that ring and sleeve are both grounded when a cord is plugged in (refer to drawing posted previous page).   Then verify the correct DC jack tab goes to the sleeve of that jack.    Look up the 'pinout' for your jacks if you must, there is no shame in that. 

Be sure the jack is wired as described in this article: http://beavisaudio.com/techpages/pedalpower/

Yep, read this link.
Gives a very good description of how the dc switching works.
Double check your wiring. Make sure there's no short circuits between any terminals.

A lot of this hobby is problem solving and fault finding - good mind exercise!

[bluebunny]

I've decided to rebuild the layout using Adonis' recommended schematic.

ADONIS??   

Oh boy, he's gonna be impossible now...   

[GibsonGM]

I'm going to have to stop posting...how can anyone follow ADONIS??   

[antonis]

Plz guys..

Focus on OP's issue and let me look after my own perfection..

[amptramp]

I prefer to operate from schematic diagrams where the intent of the design is obvious rather than layout drawings where you have to guess at what the jack pins are.  Looking at this schematic:



you have input, power and output jacks from top to bottom.  The power jack shows that the battery is connected to the internal V+ line unless external power is plugged in, in which case, the battery connection is open circuit.  But power goes nowhere unless the input cable is plugged in since that connects the negative supply to the ground side of the input jack through the plug barrel.  The intent is obvious with a schematic.  Follow the jack switching part of this diagram and you should be operational.

[GibsonGM]

^  Yes.  I'm a 'prove it to myself' guy, and since I don't assemble permanent pedals TOO often (3, 4x per year), I will take the steps needed to assure myself that something like the DC jack functions the way I remembered it to.   

Steps such as using a meter to follow the path from battery thru the jack (continuity), and then plugging in a dummy plug (just a cut off from a dead power supply that I can attach battery leads to if needed) and confirming that the switch closed and now the PLUG center has continuity thru the jack, and the battery terminal is open.    A little thing like that - keeping a plug around that fits these things - can save a lot of debugging time!   

And this plug also has the added use of allowing you to plug it in and attach a battery to any of the Boss style pedals to ensure that they work on a PS, too.  Mark the + and - wires, use a battery snap w/alligator clips soldered to it, off you go. 

[Rodgre]

I prefer to operate from schematic diagrams where the intent of the design is obvious rather than layout drawings where you have to guess at what the jack pins are.  Looking at this schematic:

BEAR IN MIND that if this is the schematic you're using, the DOD 595 is from the Performer series, which used a proprietary 1/4" 18vdc power supply, not one of the modern/standard "Boss" style 9vdc 2.1/5.5mm barrel connectors.

I don't know if that is what's tripping you up here or not, but when I saw this schematic referenced, I knew that the Performer series was unique.

I think the main lesson in this whole thread, though, is that having a decent meter is as important as your soldering iron when it comes to building/repairing/troubleshooting pedals.

I don't think I could live without a meter. I hope I never have to find out!

EDIT: I see that this schematic was posted as a generic reference to show power jack switching. I just saw the schematic and panicked that someone was trying to power a Performer with 9v and shorting + to ground.

Roger

[GibsonGM]

Over time, you do learn some work-arounds.  For instance, maybe 15 yrs ago I took a very small screwdriver, filed the end nearly to a point, and mounted an LED (green) with CLR to it, and taped over them so they are secure.  One end of the CLR has a lead with alligator clip soldered on to go to ground.  This is to 'find a voltage', and with the CLR I chose, it would be safe up to 30V or so.  I even put in a 2nd LED facing the OTHER way (red) to show a reverse voltage condition (so you're not left with no light at all if connected backwards).     This could be used here to verify power on those jack pins, likely faster than with a meter, and anywhere else you expect your supply voltage to be.  Cost me nothing but a couple of junk box parts and a stripped phillips driver.

I rarely if ever USED this thing...til a month ago when my car's radio and 'navigation display' went out.   It made VERY short work of testing all the fuses, and I found a single 20A that had blown up in the engine compartment.  The wires passing into the hatch back had flexed to failure and the antenna amp back there caused it to blow.   Easy enough to splice in new wires and shrink tube them.     The meter probes were not fine enough to quickly and reliably make contact with all 50 or so fuse ends while they were in the box(es).

Like the 'audio probe' of great fame around here, sometimes small home-brew devices can REALLY make debugging a whole lot easier!! 

[Badcircuit]

Adonis and the gods are against me.  Sorry Antonis, I apologize.

So,  I am going to use the mutimeter; but, I know this adapter works as stated.  But I will check it.

Here is my latest saga.

I rebuild the pedal according to Antonis' diagram.  Checked to ensure the battery jack is wired correctly.

Now the pedal gives me battery power but no 9 volt power.  And the 9 volt adapter shorts out when the plug is inserted (the 9 volt is a standard pedal 9 volt with a red light on it.  the red light goes off when I insert the plug).

This is exactly the opposite of the previous wiring whereby the battery would not power the pedal.

I have even reversed the battery wire and the adapter wire to the power jack.  Same outcome, battery power to the pedal, no adapter power (using Antonis' diagram).

I'm thinking I have the stereo jack wired incorrectly.  I am using a 5 pin enclosed pbc mount jack.


Has anyone looked at my board diagram I posted to see if they are okay?

Sorry for repeating myself I'm just desperate.