Countdown Phaser stopped seeping

[matopotato]

Some months back I built a Countdown phaser by Lectric-FX (https://lectric-fx.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Countdown-Phaser-V.1.0.pdf).
Now it was time to box it. I had just done the same for Flintlock Flanger which failed after boxing (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=130489.0) so I decided to make sure it "rocked" before I went ahead and boxed it.
Much to my surprise the sweeping had worked outside the box, but stopped once all was in place.
It seems as id the other controls do their thing, but there is no phasing-sweep.
The calibration probably survived the wait and boxing with MAXFRE 35kHz, and CLKRANGE at 350kHz. It is supposed to be 650kHz, so I tried to adjust it even if the pedal isn't working, and I only got to 400 something kHz, which leads me to think it might have been ok still if the rest was working properly. But will have to revise later on if I get it working.
Probe signal goes through as guitar to the output, but sweeping is not happening.
Probing a little bit unorganized, I found that IC3 and 4 seem ok.
But for ICs 9 and 10 there is signal "in" when probing, but not out. So the "IO" and "OI" in the schematic all carry signals for IC9 and at least IC10 but not sure about pins 1,2,3,4 and they seem not connected anyway.
But the "southside" exits marked CNTL are not giving any signal.
same for IC7 pins 12 and 9(?hard to read in the schematics)
Probing around in the lower third of the schematics, I got no signal.
So I am guessing either IC9 and 10 are broken, or IC7.
Any input and suggestions etc are much appreciated, before ordering new parts "in the dark"...

Readings, powered up but nothing in or out signal wise.
and as per
pin1  pin8
pin2  pin7
pin3  pin6
pin4  pin5


IC1 TL072
7,26   14,5
7,26   7,25
6,61   7,26
0       7,25

IC2 (LM348N)
7,25     7,23
7,25     7,23
7,25     7,18
14,49    0
7,23     7,25
7,24     7,25
7,25     7,23

IC3 (LM348N)
6,86     6,96
6,88     7,09
6,88     6,97
14,34    0
6,71     7,19
6,78     7,19
6,69     7,19

IC4 (LM348N)
7,06     6,88
7,06     6,96
7,08     6,88
14,40    0
7,15     6,27
7,14     7,13
7,13     7,19

IC5 (LM324N)
11,81                        1,51
6,46                          1,52
~2 - 10,6 sweeping    4,37
12,98                        0
6,38                          6,46     
6,50                          6,50
6,50                        ~2,9 - 10,4

IC6 (LM1458N)
4,91    14,55
5,09    5,54
5,02    0,68
0        0,02

IC7 (CD4007)
7,93      14,31
2,00        1,89
4,92        1,89
1,99      14,31
1,84      12,22
12,24    0
0          1,90

IC8 (CD4047)
12,07       14,32
2,0          12,24
8,0          0
14,31      7,12
14,32      7,06
14,32      0
0            0

IC9 (CD4016)
6,88    14,32
6,75    1,88
6,94    1,88
6,87    7,15
1,88    7,24
1,87    7,01
0        7,12

IC10 (CD4016)
2,00    14,32
1,94    1,87
1,84    1,87
2,02    7,03
1,88    7,11
1,87    6,91
0        7,07

IC11 (LT1054)
0         9,19
4,49    6,34
0         3,43
0         0

IC12 (78L15)
Seen from above like a capital "D"
14,61
0
16,11
(I am guessing pin 1,2,3 in that order but might be the other way around...)

A few pictures although I think since it was working prior to the boxing attempt they might not be all that helpful.

[Mark Hammer]

It-worked-before-I-boxed-it-up may not be THE most frequent crisis posted here, but it comes up often enough that it may yet deserve an acronym (IWBIBIU ?).

One of the reasons for failure-upon-installation is that components become unwittingly shorted out against the chassis, somewhere on the inside.

A second reason is that, during the process of getting everything in place - especially things that have wires connecting them to the board - leads may get fractured.  I make it a point to put a small heat-shrink-tubing "sleeve" over wire/lug connections that may risk fracturing during the twisting around into place.

A third reason I am constantly guilty of is not verifying that all ground connections needed are actually made.  I may have several temporary ground connections, while a board is sitting naked on my bench, and getting tone-tested to see if I like it as-is or need to change some component values.  Installation may involve undoing those ground connections, and then resuming them once everything is in place.  Non-functionality often means that not all the requisite ground connections were resumed.

But all of that is MY own common miseries, and may not be yours.

[matopotato]

It-worked-before-I-boxed-it-up may not be THE most frequent crisis posted here, but it comes up often enough that it may yet deserve an acronym (IWBIBIU ?).

Thanks, if my failures act as an inspiration for a new acronym in this society, I'll be honored and proudly accept it. 

...pedal still failing though... 

One of the reasons for failure-upon-installation is that components become unwittingly shorted out against the chassis, somewhere on the inside.

Yes, I thought of that. Now they are all out of their boxes though and still not working. So I might have shorted something to cause the failure. Still need to figure out where the failure is.
At one point, in the box, I pressed one corner of the board a little (to ensure the IC was in place) and it seemed to work again. In a glitchy way. Press-works, Release - not-working.
Also wondering if static electricity might have zapped an IC.

A second reason is that, during the process of getting everything in place - especially things that have wires connecting them to the board - leads may get fractured.  I make it a point to put a small heat-shrink-tubing "sleeve" over wire/lug connections that may risk fracturing during the twisting around into place.

Yes, good tip.

A third reason I am constantly guilty of is not verifying that all ground connections needed are actually made.  I may have several temporary ground connections, while a board is sitting naked on my bench, and getting tone-tested to see if I like it as-is or need to change some component values.  Installation may involve undoing those ground connections, and then resuming them once everything is in place.  Non-functionality often means that not all the requisite ground connections were resumed.

But all of that is MY own common miseries, and may not be yours.

Good point. In my case this might apply more to strip-board builds and a little bit less to ready PCB kits, but point taken. Thanks.

[ElectricDruid]

The op-amp ICs 1,2,3,4 all look basically ok.

IC5 is sweeping on pins 3 and 8, so it looks like the LFO is working. However, by IC6, the sweep has disappeared, so I'd be checking over the connections around IC6 and the associated parts as carefully as possible. Until you can get the sweep to appear at pin 1 of IC6, you're not going to hear any phaser movement, even if everything else is working (and it may very well be).

[matopotato]

The op-amp ICs 1,2,3,4 all look basically ok.

IC5 is sweeping on pins 3 and 8, so it looks like the LFO is working. However, by IC6, the sweep has disappeared, so I'd be checking over the connections around IC6 and the associated parts as carefully as possible. Until you can get the sweep to appear at pin 1 of IC6, you're not going to hear any phaser movement, even if everything else is working (and it may very well be).

Thanks!
IC6 being a dual opamp, if needed, could I try with something like TL072 just to verify if the IC6 itself has issues?
First I plan to check the surroundings, but good to know what options I might have.

[eh la bas ma]

First the Flintlock, and now this ?

I think you just earned a new title, dear Sweep Destroyer. +1000 xp : I'd humbly suggest to invest them in your put-everything-in-the-box skills ?

[ElectricDruid]

IC6 being a dual opamp, if needed, could I try with something like TL072 just to verify if the IC6 itself has issues?
First I plan to check the surroundings, but good to know what options I might have.

Yeah, TL072 should be ok as quick replacement for the 1458. It's simple to try, and if it fixed things, that'd be great, so definitely give it a whirl if you have a spare dual op-amp around.

[matopotato]

First the Flintlock, and now this ?

I think you just earned a new title, dear Sweep Destroyer. +1000 xp : I'd humbly suggest to invest them in your put-everything-in-the-box skills ?

Yes, build confidence took a deep plunge.
Perhaps overdrives and dirt is my limitation, but even there is one with boxing issues. That is a stripboard though with 7 knobs and 3 switches in a tight enclosure, so more expected in my case.

[matopotato]

IC6 being a dual opamp, if needed, could I try with something like TL072 just to verify if the IC6 itself has issues?
First I plan to check the surroundings, but good to know what options I might have.

Yeah, TL072 should be ok as quick replacement for the 1458. It's simple to try, and if it fixed things, that'd be great, so definitely give it a whirl if you have a spare dual op-amp around.

RC4558 and 4559
OPA2132P
OPA2134PA
LM358N
MC1458P (oops... not LM but same thing?)
NE5532P
JRC4562D

Opamps seem to find their way to my component rack..

[ElectricDruid]

Loads of options then!

For a quick test, it's really not going to matter much. You're looking for a "go/no go" type of result, not a "maximise every performance parameter" result.

That said, MC1458 is going to be basically the same thing, yes. The RC4558/9 look like slightly later/faster chips, but still not exactly modern - and the choices in that Countdown circuit are all resolutely "old skool".
I'd avoid the 5532. It might work, but it's a slightly different beast with different needs and benefits. The OP-series ones I'm not really familiar with. I'm pretty sure they'd work if you dropped them in, but they're probably overkill for something that's not audio and designed for some frankly-shocking part from the 70's, lol!

The question is only "does a known-good chip make this part of the circuit start working again?". If it does, the original chip is probably bad. If not, we'll have to keep looking.

HTH

[matopotato]

Loads of options then!

For a quick test, it's really not going to matter much. You're looking for a "go/no go" type of result, not a "maximise every performance parameter" result.

That said, MC1458 is going to be basically the same thing, yes.

Makes sense to test with this if the existing IC is faulty or not.

The RC4558/9 look like slightly later/faster chips, but still not exactly modern - and the choices in that Countdown circuit are all resolutely "old skool".
I'd avoid the 5532. It might work, but it's a slightly different beast with different needs and benefits. The OP-series ones I'm not really familiar with. I'm pretty sure they'd work if you dropped them in, but they're probably overkill for something that's not audio and designed for some frankly-shocking part from the 70's, lol!

I got them for something where I got some extras, but plan to use in Blueshift. Just need to get it working. I doubt I'll be able to tell the difference, but fun to try anyway

The question is only "does a known-good chip make this part of the circuit start working again?". If it does, the original chip is probably bad. If not, we'll have to keep looking.

HTH

Yes, and thanks. Will have to wait until next week though, so I will pause the troubleshooting a few days.

[matopotato]

So I decided to check once more before changing the IC6 (LM1458N) for a spare MC1458.
As I am plugging cables in, I probably accidently touched something to something as there was a fairly loud sound. Similar to touching a cable that was in the amp already.
Anyhow, it then turned out to be sweeping.
Can't explain it. Time ago it was sweeping, then it wasn't and now it is back to sweep. I suspect some wire glitching or touching.
Anyway, I went to check the clock frequencies, and they were back where I had left them months ago, 35k and 650k. The odd reading a few days back of 350 was not restored.
So I started the assembly again. This time I kept the pedal on once the build was roughly in place. Adding a washer, tightening a screw for a connection, 3PDT or pot. Strumming guitar to make sure it did not leave as magically as it had come back. Next screw. And so on.
It was quite an awkward experience.
But now all is in place. And working.
It sounds a bit like a sweeping Vocoder or phaser-wah if that makes any sense. The intensity will do crazy things when pushed a bit.
I might have to open up and adjust the trimpots at some point, but now it has deserved to just "be the pedal".

Many thanks for all tips and help I got here. Even if some are not the cure, I (hope I) still learn new things. And it is quite comforting to just know that someone else on this planet is also thinking about my issue.
I really appreciate all replies!