Securing a breadboard inside the pedal?

[bill0287]

How do you secure a small solder-able breadboard inside a pedal enclosure like a 1590B? There are no mounting studs or anything in the enclosure. Forgive me, I am new to this.

[Ben N]

You can do any number of things:
1) mount standoffs inside the enclosure either with screws or epoxy, & screw the board to the standoffs.
2) mount the board to (a) pcb-mount potentiometer(s) or switch(es).
3) double sided tape; this works pretty well, but is a PITA if you have to remove the board for troubleshooting.
4) don't mount it to anything - just put in some kind of bag or put some kind of non-conductive pad between it and the enclosure to keep it from shorting out or moving around. MXR used to have a free-floating pcb with just a foam pad to keep the board away from the box.

[antonis]

5) Do NOT mount the board on IN-OUt soldered jacks..!!

P.S.1 Welcome..

P.S.2 You can drill the back of the enclosure and use flat-head screws (preferably 100^o angle instead of 82^o ordinary ones) with  spacers of proper lenght inside..

[Phend]

Bought some nylon stand offs like these in the picture.
Check the dimensions since they do come in different sizes.
Never used them.
1 they stick real good. So be prepared.
2 after I had the pots and foot sw and jacks wired to the board I didn't need them. The wires did the job.
3 that assembly allows, after de nutting those things, the entire thing can be removed. But there is lots of air in that build !
.

[Ben N]

Yes, indeed, welcome! And best of luck with this projects and all those to come, which we look forward to hearing about & helping with, if you need any help.

Point of terminology: Around here, when folks speak of a "breadboard", they generally mean the solderless variety, like this:
. They are the nuts for test-building, trying out and tweaking circuits.

The soldered kinds of prototyping boards, such as

are generally referred to as perfboard (or "pad-per-hole"), stripboard (or "vero"), or protoboard.
Although you aren't wrong, these can be "breadboards", too. Then again, so can this:

[GibsonGM]

I build on perf almost exclusively.  I used to use standoffs (attached to the enclosure's inside with JB Weld), but now I just put some non conductive padding in there and let it be as in "Ben's #4" above.   Never have any problems - the wiring is firm enough to keep it from moving around.  Just have to be sure there's no way to short the board out on the enclosure.

If it was something really involved and precious, I might consider doing the standoffs again for a neater, 'more complete' build.

[Phend]

After searching lo and hi I found what I wanted.
A solderable breadboard.
There are different sizes.
You can take a breadboard project and direct transfer it for soldering.
I downloaded the Hammond 1590B stp file so as to make a solid model assembly.
And locate all the components,  switch, pots, board, jacks.....
There are jumper wires on the back, these isolate.
But nylon standoffs are an option.
I believe solder is for points, not lines.
Problem, you aren't going to build a large circuit on that small board !

[amptramp]

Some people use cast potting material to encapsulate a circuit board.  This makes it easy to mount and it is insulated but not that good for repair:

[antonis]

but not that good for repair

IMHO, both epoxy heat transfer ability (greater than air) and oxygen-sealed encapsulation minimize components failure possibility..

[duck_arse]

Yes, indeed, welcome!
Point of terminology:  ......

Antonis - do flat-head screws have countersunk heads?

[antonis]

Antonis - do flat-head screws have countersunk heads?

Absolutely..

[blackieNYC]

My perf boards float in the nest of wires. I use a small sheet of electrical tape - folded over on itself so it is not sticky- to insulate the solder side of the board. 
I consider it "shock-mounting". Kinda.

[Phend]

Aluminum studs with aluminum solder works for me.
Solder the studs right to the inside case of the 1590B.
Make sure the studs are smaller than the hole.

[Ksander]

I use electrocookie solderable breadboards. The fit exactly inside the lid of a 1590b. On the lid, I put a layer of insulation tape. The board then snaps into place, and wires running from pots, jacks and switches keep the board from moving around. So far, this works perfectly. Except sometimes when a cap or something touches a jack or gets crushed when squeezing it all in...

[amptramp]

I expect to see a lot of duct tape on the inside of metal housings because that would be a line of defense against things shorting out if you just have the board held in place by wiring.  Double-sided tape would allow you to mount things but if you have some other means of mounting, double-sided tape would still allow you to clean up the internals like the getter method of making hybrid circuits.  When the early hybrids were made, there was often some microscopic piece of wire or solder waiting to create havoc.  The getter method (named for the getter in a vacuum tube that absorbs residual gas) was the use of an adhesive on the lid of the hybrid.  You just shook the device and supposedly, anything that was loose stuck to the adhesive and wasn't going to short anything out.