illuminated 3PDT Bi-Color stomp switch wiring

[petey twofinger]

Hello , - purchased  - illuminated 3PDT Bi-Color stomp switch ( tayda ).

unsure how  i wire this ?

there is three terminal posts for the led . a single post for the plus , one post for the BLUE ground , another post for the RED ground .

here is an image i made , which i am unsure if this wiring will function properly or with out catastrophic failures .





thanks and i apologize if this has been posted . i did do several searchs and came up empty handed . i also looked on diyschematics and came up with several wiring diagrams but none of them were for the bi color led switch . so sorry .

i plan to use a buffer , along with a zvex sho and a cot50 . so i will be looking for wiring diagrams , getting out a pencil , doing it wrong , fire etc .

thanks so much !

[ElectricDruid]

Looks ok to me!

The bicolour LEDs are going to need a resistor and a connection to +V too, but that's aside from the switch wiring.

[antonis]

Looks ok to me!

But not to me..!!
(sorry Tom..)

As it is, bi-colour LED is useless 'cause switch wiring calls for only 1 circuit On - Bypassed..
More specifically, only BLUE LED status (ON-OFF) is effect status indicator..

@petey twofinger: Exactly how you wish to wire the buffer and ZVex SHO & COT50..??

P.S.
You could wire board out switch lug on red led switch lug to have both IN & Out grounded when effect is bypassed..

[ElectricDruid]

Don't agree. Here's the assumptions I'm making (which may be wrong):

They've got a three-legged bicolour LED with common anode. The blue and red -ve wires are the cathodes for the two LED colours. Grounding either of those will turn the LED on in that colour, one colour for "Effect On" and the other colour for "Bypassed".

Don't see much wrong with that. I think you're trying to turn it into something it wasn't intended to be, Antonis.

[antonis]

I think you're trying to turn it into something it wasn't intended to be, Antonis.

Definitely not, Tom..

I thought (and still thinking..) OP wishes to have an indicator colour for each effect activated..

[ElectricDruid]

...so how's that going to work if you've only wired up one of the LED colours?

<not understanding>

[antonis]

I think we've get muddled a bit  so let's wait for OP to clarify his intentions..

[petey twofinger]

thank you all so much for the assistance - i could have been less vague. in order to try to eliminate speculation ,and keep things simple i will attempt to be as clear as i can be when typing here . i was trying to keep the post short , my apology's . my only goal is to get an answer , not to be typing way too much and be a pest . that is what i was trying to avoid .

for this porject that i am asking the question about bypass stomp switch bi color led wiring . i plan to use a pair of 3pdt stomp switches in this single enclosure because there is two circuits that will need to be bypassed or engauged . one is a cot 50 the other is a zvex sho . there is a buffer that i plan to have wiried in a non bypass able configuration , just off the input jack . i have done this several times and despite the fact i wired it this way out of ignorance it just worked . is this undesirable ? is there a proper way to buffer a pedal that i am unaware of ?

i plan to have a buffer that i will wire right off the input jack - so this buffer will be non bypassable .

i purchased a pair of these bicolor led stomp switches from tayda . these blue colored 3pdt stomp switches have the bicolor (red and blue) led's built in to the top of the switches chassis under a clear plastic ring. this illuminates the opaque milky colored nylon fastener used that sits just underneath the nut .

in my head - my plan is this sort of signal path wiring -first - input jack , the buffer , the 3pdt stomp switch for the first circuit (a zvex sho, then on the other side of the pedal the basic same thing , a respective second circuit being the cot50 with its respective stomp switch wiring feeding pedals the output jack .

antonis had made a comment about altering the wiring diagram in order to "wire board out switch lug on red led switch lug to have both IN & Out grounded when effect is bypassed.. "

thank you antonis !

i am unable to comprehend this modification , but i do believe i would like every thing to be grounded .  i was hoping to avoid tearing this device apart and starting over due to noise issues .


i am well aware of the fact of the crackle ok concept  (zvex sho makes a crakle sound when you adjust the pot) , but as far as wiring up the bypass and having the input or output NOT grounded this, to me in my limited comprehension of these things, sounds extremely undesirable . this is exactly why i posted this image and asked about this so thank you . now i need to start over .

as far antonis great suggestion , as how i would go about wiring it to achieve full grounding in bypass on both the input and output , that went over my head but i am not moving forward until i can achieve that goal .

i found another DIFFERENT wiring diagram that looks  to me like perhaps it would work but i am also thinking if it is different it means things will not be grounded (in bypass is that?) or something bad .

 if i found it , if i derived a sense of hopefulness from it - it is surely false and will lead to catastrophic failure noise issues or both .

as far as the concept of current limiting resistor - i have considered this and yes i would like to install a 2.2k resistor on the positive lead , that would be powering both of the bi-color leds that are situated on the 3pdt stomp switch to bypass my circuit .

one of two bypass switches for one of two circuits . as i am aware about the idea of having to use a current limiting resistor . i was going to try a 2.2k to start as i like to be able to determine led status when i am outside , but i also do not like eye Melter leds , so that part of it for me , well it usually is kind of a pita as it has to be goldilocks'd - meaning i would take time to try several values of current limiting resistors to achieve the optimal brightness of led for use both indoors and out (in shade) .


thank you so much for the assist guys !

here is another bi color wiring diagram i found - what do you think of this one ? does it allow for grounding of both input and output in bypass and other states ?

 or if i chose to use this wiring will some things be not grounded in certain states of the bypass switch ? thank you !





now as far as how i am hoping to wire all of this , here is a diagram i saved and altered - thanks to tagboard fx , this illustrates the basics but it does not allow consideration for bi color led wiring so , it will need to be modified before i finalize . at the least - the grounding would need to be altered if i use the original bi color led wiring diagram i op'ed  . so i am fully aware that this diagram is kind of useless but it does illustarte where the buffer would be situated , theoretically ... of course .




again thank you so much for your assistance , i really do appreciate it .

[Matthew Sanford]

You're using one bi-color led for each switch? If you want both LEDs to show the same color for on and bypass then use your first one, if you want the led off when bypassing then use Antonis' scheme. Put the cathode for the color you want on the appropriate row on the switch

[petey twofinger]

yes . one led per 3pdt stompswitch.

the stomp switch that i purchased from tayda has the led assembly built into it .




this build has a pair of circuits ( two overdrives ) and a buffer which is not going to be bypassed . i am hoping to define a wiring diagram that acomplishes a few things

A True bypass

B also light a red led when the switch is in bypass mode

C and it would light the Blue led when the switch is in fx Engauge mode

D lastly this wiring diagram would not leave anything floating - the diagram i would like to employ would ensure proper grounding of both input and ouput .

now i have to be honest as far as D goes i am clueless but i did notice this coming up in comments . This is what i am confused /concerned about .

like i found this , it leads to a dead link , i dont really understand very well what is being said here , but it seems to me there is a wrong way of doing this . https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=80530.0

[petey twofinger]

so perhaps THIS is what i was looking for ...




keep in mind , this image did not have allowance for bi color led . i altered this image to reflect my changes .

what do you guys think ?

thanks so much !!

there is a redit post i found tonight that may be of interest to some of you who are not in the club , like myslef . https://www.reddit.com/r/diypedals/comments/rxb364/which_is_best_also_no_power_wiring/

[idy]

I think you have a winner there.

[antonis]

If you like to make things more complicated    (by adding an LED anti-pop circuit), implement the following configuration..



which is just an enclosure arrangemnent of the 3PDT switch wiring below:

[mark2]

so perhaps THIS is what i was looking for ...

Is that going to introduce a DC bias to the input through the LED?

[antonis]

so perhaps THIS is what i was looking for ...

Is that going to introduce a DC bias to the input through the LED?

True but there should be an input DC blocking cap..

[petey twofinger]

there is input dc blocking caps on both of the circuits .


i found a vendor with a bi color 3pdt pcb

i am curious about this pcb . i have some coming . i am curious what the layout is , does it provide input and output grounding in bypass .  i also was looking and i saw a 4pdt switch and i thought ok this will solve my problems ...

i have never used this wiring method for bypass , that i am aware of . i have also never tried robs anti pop - i have seen that but i never tried it .

worse case - it will pop , i play thru reverb and delay often , so perhaps i will use the volume pedal to mute if i need to bypass . thats what i was doing before as i have a vex sho i tried about everything to get it to not pop , except robs anti pop layout - i believe i ended up with 10m resistors on the in / out and it still popped .

this is when a cafine / aspfouse / choojigger / moopfen (27 dollar ali express 1590a clone pedal)  begins to become extremely really appealing . till you purchase one and ... it pops .

 that was the point where i gave up on it . i admit , it would be really nice to have no pop . i should consider this when i am wiring it up and try robs design .

i wont start griping about DHL ,(tayda got rid of usps shipping) . i believe i have figured out the acronym , Dont get your Hopes up Laddie .

ok , i am off , you guys have fun

on a side note , when playing around with mosfetts (bs170) on the sho , it seemed to me the crackle would be louder in correlation to the mosfet. like i had one bs170 that had more gain when testing by ear , it also made the crackle ok louder . but i am sure i am incorrect about this and there is all sorts of good reasons why .

[antonis]

i believe i ended up with 10m resistors on the in / out and it still popped

Such high value pull-down resistors form a large RC time constant (where C is the input DC blocking capacitor) resulting into inefficient capacitor discharge..

IMHO, IN (& OUT in the absence of low value pull-down resistor, like a Volume pot) 3PDT switch grounding should be mandatory..!!

it seemed to me the crackle would be louder in correlation to the mosfet

Although there are 2 different Crackle pot configurations (in series with Gate and as Source resistor) what really counts is particular device V_GSth (Gate threshold voltage)..