Joyo Vintage Phase Footswitch wiring

[HunkFunkPedals]

I don't have the ribbon cable in my build.

Here's the schematic:




I've been trying to trace the schematic with my multimeter but I'm not having any luck.

[idy]

That is blurry but:
Do you see and understand the part that shows the three poles of the switch? Labled SW A,B,C.
It would have been neater to label them SW1A, SW1B etc...

Can you find the terminals on the switch that go to the input jack? If you are in bypass you should find three. If effect is on you will find... three but one has changed.

Other terminals go to effect in and out, and one end of the LED, and ground. Can you find that?

[HunkFunkPedals]

weird, it is a bit blurry.

Are the A/B/C referring to lug rows and lug #s?

I didn't make the schematic so I don't really know.

[idy]

Yes, A B and C are columns of lugs on the switch.
The center lugs are the ones on the schematic down below with the arrows pointing up. If the switch is working, each will connect to either the upper or lower neighbor.

when examining your switch you will want to make sure you are not looking at "sideways." It is 3x3, and unless you know the look of the lugs on the switch, you can get confused. If the switch has flat lugs, you "look at it" with the flat sides facing up and down. Then you number them
1.  4.  7. 
2.  5.  8.
3.  6.  9.

I can't read the schematic. The artist may have numbered therm A:1,2,3, B:1,2,3 etc.
Note that the switch in the schematic is portrayed in an "impossible" state: the little arrows should all point left (Bypassed) or right (engaged.) The artist shows them all hanging in mid swing...

[CheapPedalCollector]

I made this schematic, here's the proper size.

Yes the A B C are the rows, and 1 2 3 are the columns. You might want to study how to read switch schematic symbols, they can be confusing.

[fearofmusic]

This is an old post but it seems like the right place...

I've got some confusion over the wiring on this pedal's footswitch. The original ribbon cable came loose and I decided to just replace it with six wires. Like a fool, I didn't confirm with photography that all six of the wires in the ribbon were matched in a consecutive row. As in 1 => 1, 2 => 2, etc.

Are they? Or are the wires in a different order on the footswitch.  As of now I get bypass and the LED works, but no effect.

I have included photographic evidence. I figure there must be a way to identify what the signal coming from each wire is, I'm just not currently informed on that topic.

Thanks.


I found this photo, it's hard to tell for sure, but it looks like on the footswitch the #6 wire is connected to pad #4, and the #4 and #5 wires are moved down one step.

[fearofmusic]

This is an old post but it seems like the right place...

I've got some confusion over the wiring on this pedal's footswitch. The original ribbon cable came loose and I decided to just replace it with six wires. Like a fool, I didn't confirm with photography that all six of the wires in the ribbon were matched in a consecutive row. As in 1 => 1, 2 => 2, etc.

Are they?...

I opened up my Joyo Dyna Comp and looked at how that footswitch is wired and it has each wire going to corresponding position on the board and the footswitch. Still not sure if this is universal.

[idy]

I think you are going to have to confirm where those wires go.I would start over with flexible, multi strand wires...
and the proper iron and solder. The right solder and temperature make soldering a pleasure.

You will need a meter. Power off, on continuity setting, one of the wires should attach to the input jack tip, another to the output jack tip. You may be able to use your eyes for this.

one of the wires will go to ground.
With power on, one wire will go to a voltage. Those two wires are for the LED.
Now to figure out which wire is input and which output of the pcb.

The input goes to a 10k R and a 10n C, then pin 3 of an opamp. The output to a 10k R and a 100n C, then a transistor.

[PRR]

I *think* the ribbon does a turn-over. But hard to be sure from a distance.

That quality of soldering is liable to make trouble someday. The original unsupported ribbon was a bad idea, as you saw. The finer wire now fitted is real fragile.

[idy]

PRR is probably right. Why design a PCB and daughter board that don't "line up" for ribbon cable? But so easy to flip it over end for end. Worth a bet. But understanding how the switch works and what each of those wires is valuable.