What to put into a wah shell with a 10k wah pot?

[Focalized]

I have a not working EHX Wailer Wah passing no signal. It's almost all SMD and is some inductorless design. I don't think I'd ever figure what's wrong unless the switch is bad. Works bypassed.

The pot reads about 8k. I guess it was maybe to be a 10k I can't find any circuit info.

Looking through all my layouts to find something that can make good use of that Wah pot. Some modulation or the fuzz maybe baby ideas? Lots of room for pots. And an easy to drill plastic enclosure.

[antonis]

[Mark Hammer]

Make another wah.  A great many autowahs use a bandpass filter, whose centre frequency is dictated by a resistance to ground.  Schematics will often show an NPN transistor used AS that variable resistance, with a parallel fixed resistor to achieve the desired resistance range.  But you can simply remove them and use that pot as the intended variable resistance.  A series trimmer to situate the sweep into the desired frequency range is probably advisable.

[Focalized]

Thought about that.

Or a Fuzz Factory with the comp or gate. But just made one and with it's sensitivity it might get silly tweaking it all the time.

Was thinking of some sort of Manuel control like in a Flanger. The ADA Flanger and others have a 10k Manuel but I'm not going crazy with that build unless I buy a proper pcb and proper ICs.

[Focalized]

Make another wah.  A great many autowahs use a bandpass filter, whose centre frequency is dictated by a resistance to ground.  Schematics will often show an NPN transistor used AS that variable resistance, with a parallel fixed resistor to achieve the desired resistance range.  But you can simply remove them and use that pot as the intended variable resistance.  A series trimmer to situate the sweep into the desired frequency range is probably advisable.

I think I want to get away from another Wah. I've built like 10 all ok not great. Lots of cash into just pots and inductors. Have 3 auto wahs which I use a lot. If a want another Wah I'll probably get a Crybaby Mini. They seem like a good choice.

[duck_arse]

wow. that input jack, wrong sort. shows as switched mono instead of stereo. and the bypass switch, drawn inpossible with A up and b/c down. and the backwards led won't indicate anything, not even reversed supply.

ohh, and cap select switch needs a centre-off position. is it meant to be centre off?

but you could use a millenium indicator on that circuit.

[Focalized]

This looks interesting. Have everything but LM567. Smallbear has lots of them and I have a to buy list anyway.


http://dirtboxlayouts.blogspot.com/2024/04/capitalist-death-cult-just-give-up-v2.html?m=1

[antonis]

wow. that input jack, wrong sort. shows as switched mono instead of stereo.

Frankly, my dear, you should visit an Ophtalmologist..

[Kevin Mitchell]

wow. that input jack, wrong sort. shows as switched mono instead of stereo.

Frankly, my dear, you should visit an Ophtalmologist..

I'll have to agree with the duck.
The tip connection is facing the opposite way making it look like a normally closed tip switch.
But really, those switching connections are typically drawn as arrows.

[antonis]

wow. that input jack, wrong sort. shows as switched mono instead of stereo.

Frankly, my dear, you should visit an Ophtalmologist..

I'll have to agree with the duck.

That's becoming a clinical case..

[Rob Strand]

I get the idea of it being a stereo socket used as a switch.  Sometimes you have to draw things a bit dodgy on those simple packages, well unless you want to make your own symbols (if the package even lets you).

The root problem is symbols which use the same shapes for signal connection contacts as they do for switch contacts.  Far better is to have symbols which show narrow and/or solid arrows for the switch contacts.

Normally a stereo socket would put the ring contact on the opposite side of the schematic symbol.  The contact type is a signal connection as opposed to a switch, even though we use it as a switch.

[Rob Strand]

[duck_arse]

wow. that input jack, wrong sort. shows as switched mono instead of stereo.

Frankly, my dear, you should visit an Ophtalmologist..

I'll have to agree with the duck.

That's becoming a clinical case..

I wouldn't have mentioned the jack if it weren't for the other gaffes. in my opinion, the ring and tip should both be down pointing arrows to indicate connection dingers. also in my opinion, it isn't drawn 100% correct for mono switched, because the "switch" should be drawn longer to indicate it will 'make contact w/ inserted plug and 'break' with fixed contact. in my opinion, that is. (I would allow Rob's top two dia's, but I'm not so sure about the third one.)

I should at least visit an optometrist.

[Rob Strand]

I wouldn't have mentioned the jack if it weren't for the other gaffes. in my opinion, the ring and tip should both be down pointing arrows to indicate connection dingers. also in my opinion, it isn't drawn 100% correct for mono switched, because the "switch" should be drawn longer to indicate it will 'make contact w/ inserted plug and 'break' with fixed contact. in my opinion, that is. (I would allow Rob's top two dia's, but I'm not so sure about the third one.)

It's possible the actual diagram for the third one doesn't have the permanent contact on the switch contact as shown - so remove the dot and add another "free" contact for the switch.    (FWIW, that socket came from a circuit which linked the ring and tip to pass Preamp Out to Power amp In.  When you insert the plug it have access to Preamp Out and Power amp In.)

Unfortunately stereo sockets can have complex switching.  The connectors where the socket contacts intermingle with the switch contact (like the old metal and isolated plastic 6.5mm socket) have much simpler switching.  The switch contacts almost always make switched connections to the signal contacts.  The old square types that break the speaker connection on the headphone jacks tend to have separate switch contacts.