Pedal Box finishing paints

[Fret Wire]

Here's two types of paint I've used alot in gunsmithing work that would be useful for pedal finishing.
  The Aluma-Hyde II is a very tough paint that is highly scuff and chemical resistant. It will do metal, wood, and PLASTIC! I've done many synthetic stocks with this, and it is one of the best paints for plastic.  The color choice is not great, but it was intended for firearm finishes. The parkerized color would make a neat military-looking box! They have two clears: gloss and semi-gloss.  These alone are worthy because they are a lot tougher than the usual clear's everyone uses. Prices are good given the size of the can.
  The Baking Lacquer is just that, a good quality baking lacquer. Once again, they offer it in a clear paint. I don't know if an inkjet label under the clearcoat would handle the baking, but I'll find out soon enough.
 
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1143&title=AEROSOL+BAKING+LACQUER

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117&title=ALUMA-HYDE+II

[ExpAnonColin]

When you bake that stuff, does it smell terrible, and should you do it outside?  I've yet to do a lacquered paintjob.

-Colin

[Fret Wire]

It dries so quickly, it doesnt fume up when you bake it. An open window and a fan, and you wont smell a thing. When you spray, it's just like any other aerosol paint, good ventilation or go outdoors.

If you dont like baking, the Aluma-Hyde II is tougher than alot of the baked paints anyways.

[ExpAnonColin]

It dries so quickly, it doesnt fume up when you bake it. An open window and a fan, and you wont smell a thing. When you spray, it's just like any other aerosol paint, good ventilation or go outdoors.

How long does baking usually take, then?

-Colin

[Fret Wire]

20 - 30 minutes. Did I screw up the links? They have a better description of the use, prep, and baking.

[ExpAnonColin]

20 - 30 minutes. Did I screw up the links? They have a better description of the use, prep, and baking.

I didnt see any info on the second one...

-Colin

[Fret Wire]

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1117&title=ALUMA-HYDE+II

Hopefully this will work.

[Peter Snowberg]

Cool.

Thanks for the tip. I've been looking for a super durable clear coat.

-Peter

[Fret Wire]

You're welcome. I actually prefer the Aluma-Hyde II over the baking lacquer. It is the most durable stuff I've used. It gets alot of use for synthetic stocks and tactical shotgun finishes. And it doesnt wear right off! I figured you guys would like the clear and matte clear finishes. They'll protect the labels better than the usual clears. I get dealer price, but I'd sure like to know who really makes the stuff. Maybe they make it in some nicer colors.

[ExpAnonColin]

I get dealer price, but I'd sure like to know who really makes the stuff.

Can you buy a bunch of them and resell it to us for a bit cheaper?  That'd be nice of you, although I can imagine that the price difference might be trivial.

I'm personally fine with plain clear non-matte finish, although I suppose a different color would be nice if you wanted to use a non-color printer.

-Colin

[Fret Wire]

I usually get the stuff for about $3 less a can. I don't know if thats worth the trouble. I'm out of the clear's. I've got plenty of the solid colors. The Parkerized Grey would make a pedal look like a military detonation unit - Rambo Fuzz! Patton-Face! Terminator-Trem! Lazer-Guided-Phaser! Or for my first project: CIA-Tone: can't hear anything (real discreet ckt)! It's a secret if it really works! Seriously, I'll be ordering some of the clear's soon and will get back to you.