laser priter paper {clay coated }

Started by troubledtom, March 08, 2004, 01:59:39 PM

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troubledtom

what's the name and where can i find it. office max and office depot don't know what i'm asking for or talking about. i got the laser printer and i want to make some prototype pcb's.
         thanx,
             - tom

gez

If you're doing the acetone/paper method then here's some of the info I came across:

"All you need is "Coated paper" i.e. for high resolution printing, some acetone and your etch, ferric chloride or hydrogen peroxide. Reason for coated paper is simple. It allows for better release of the toner on your copper board.

To use: Print your artwork. 600dpi resolution is more than enough.
For bottom copper no need to mirror artwork. For Top copper must mirror artwork. Clean Copper board with steelwool and rinse and dry. Take artwork placing printed surface face down on copper. Take some cotton wool and wet with acetone. Rub on back of printed artwork. Let acetone evaporate from the paper. Place board with printed artwork now stuck to board in warm water for some minutes. Peel off the paper and there is your board ready for etching.

Reason for the acetone and not hot iron on, if you transfer the artwork with a hot clothes iron (Melting the toner onto the copper) the copper board expands with heat under the iron and leads to inconsistency especially if you make doublesided boards!

Coated paper is for higher resolution printing, I use the HP premium paper. You can get it at most stationary stores, and is actually meant for inkjet printers. But Yes, you can use it in lazer printers. It is relatively inexpensive and can really improve the time from artwork to PCB."

I tried this method with a photocopy but the paper wasn't coated so results weren't too good.  But, I've read so many recommendations for it so it must work well!

If you're using photoboard, then tracing paper seems to give the best results with a laser printer.

"Tracing paper Get the thickest you can find - at least 90gsm (thinner stuff can crinkle), 120gsm is even better but harder to find. It's cheap, easily available from office or art suppliers (usually in pads the same size as normal paper sizes), has good enough UV translucency and is nearly as good as drafting film for toner retention, and stays flatter under laser-printer heat than polyester or acetate film"
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

troubledtom

why thank you gez,
      you're a good man. do you know the kind of HP premium paper, seems like the have a lot to chose from.
           - tom

gez

Quote from: troubledtomdo you know the kind of HP premium paper, seems like the have a lot to chose from

I'm afraid not, I use transparencies and photo board.  I don't think the type is that critical considering normal paper works (albeit poorly), just ask for 'the posh stuff', so to speak,  the sort of thing that gets used for fancy letters (I believe it has a glossy appearence).

Sorry I can't be more help than that Tom.  

Good luck!
"They always say there's nothing new under the sun.  I think that that's a big copout..."  Wayne Shorter

troubledtom

thanx,
   this is an art that can ., help in the 1 offs and proto work ,. test the device , before making 100 -1000 boards.
             - tom