Securing components in sockets

Started by javacody, March 14, 2004, 11:52:09 PM

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javacody

I have a bunch of sockets in my effects, they work great. However, once I've decided on my final value, what's the best way to permanently attach the components to the socket? I was thinking epoxy? It is non-conductive, yes? This isn't much of a concern for opamp sockets, but it is a large concern for cap and transistor sockets, as I've actually had them fall out on occasion.

Greg Moss

I've used the Mill-Max sockets, and the parts seem to sit in there pretty darn snugly.

Maybe hot melt glue?  It' dries fast, and isn't quite so perminant as epoxy, in case you change your mind....

Paul Marossy

I believe that epoxy is non-conductive.

You could also use some hot glue to secure them in place. I have done this on occasion with electolytic caps to keep them from moving around. You see that a lot with commercially manufactured electronics, too. (That's where I got the idea...)

javacody

Good idea! Craft stores give away hot glue guns like every 2 months, so my wife has several. I'll have to commandeer one for myself.

petemoore

Ok...here goes...
 I'ts not hard to solder one end right to the socket.
 For transistors I don't think it's necessary, provided the legs bent then trimmed to fit straight in the socket.
 caps, if you leave just a bit more lead on one end can be soldered in on one side, all they need to stay in ... oops
 I had a recent post about bypass pops, but the DIST+ has the soldered in caps and it's a silent one...who knows? how much heat a cap can take...
 It's a littel messy and might burn caps...anyone else try this...
cats out of the bag now, don't be shy...
 Before that I was 'strapping em down with urethane...hard to find urethane, or whatever plastic or even duct tape...I don't like the way duct tape decroedes, or the way electrical tape [doesn't] stick.
 I think epoxy would be fine.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

petemoore

NEvermore
 ...Hot Melt Glue...don't see how yer gonna beat it...less mess, not too stinky, dries Fastintantly...look 'Pro' [lol]
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Dai H.

Quote from: javacodyI have a bunch of sockets in my effects, they work great. However, once I've decided on my final value, what's the best way to permanently attach the components to the socket? I was thinking epoxy? It is non-conductive, yes? This isn't much of a concern for opamp sockets, but it is a large concern for cap and transistor sockets, as I've actually had them fall out on occasion.

you have the *sockets* fall out? That would seem to mean that the soldered leg side was not properly soldered. Or is it something else? I have had trouble w/breakaway SIP sockets where the socket didn't make good contact after MANY repeated parts insertion/removals. The effect didn't work until I found that. Also, how about just soldering the lead to the socket? Would that work? Having a bunch of things socketed is great to facilitate experimentation, but I doubt that's the best situation in terms of reliability, though.

niftydog

once you've decided on the final value, pull the socket and solder the part!  It's the only way you're going to get any reliability.

if the parts are falling out of the sockets, then they won't be making good electrical contact and you'll get strange stuff happening like high impedance junctions and intermittent connections.  No amount of hot glue will save you from these headaches.  Just bite the bullet and solder the suckers!


Quoteand isn't quite so perminant as epoxy, in case you change your mind....

Solder isn't permanant either, but it's far simpler and cleaner to work with than hot glue!
niftydog
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Hal

silicon?  

It deff. has ease, no gun or 2 parts or anything.   Pretty strong, too.  

Or you could solder out hte sockets, and just solder in the cap or trannie or whatever it is...

javacody

I'm a little hesitant to desolder the sockets. I'm using perf, and it seems like every time I desolder a component, the copper pad falls off. I get a nice firm connection, but a small drop will cause the component to fall out of the sockets.

Jay Doyle

Quote from: javacodyI'm a little hesitant to desolder the sockets. I'm using perf, and it seems like every time I desolder a component, the copper pad falls off. I get a nice firm connection, but a small drop will cause the component to fall out of the sockets.

Are you using an iron with an adjustable temperature? If so you may be running it a bit hot. If not, I would suggest using a desoldering braid, it takes up a lot of the heat from the iron and I find it protects the traces that way.

As for making them permanent, hot glue sounds like the best option, of course super glue would work just as well. As long as the components are functioning properly I wouldn't worry about desoldering everything. If you find that you are getting intermittent problems then replacing the whole socket/component package would be the best idea.

Good luck,

Jay Doyle

petemoore

Seems like Super Glue might try to go all over and around a parts surface area [maybe cause conduction problems after heat expansion or sometheing]...hot glue would tend to stay away from the conduction points.
Convention creates following, following creates convention.

Samuel

I usually solder two of the transistor legs (or whatever) right into the socket. I think it's the easiest way to go.

Jay Doyle

Quote from: petemooreSeems like Super Glue might try to go all over and around a parts surface area [maybe cause conduction problems after heat expansion or sometheing]...hot glue would tend to stay away from the conduction points.

Good point.

Nasse

:) Sorry this my comment is little of topic but a tongue-in-the-cheek written computer fixing tip came to my mind. I have two Atari ST computers in some junk pile and some great "public domain" file collections was the only way to find info about your Atari (no net was available for masses back then).

Older Ataris were famous about those big LSI chips popping and jumping up their sockets, because of temperature variations. I dont have the original text at my drive but the fix was told something about like this:

"If your Atari stops working, here is the first thing to do. You don´t need to open the box. If you are afraid to follow these instructions after reading till the end, ask your wife, some half mad fellow of yours or someone to do it for you. All I can say *** THAT´s THE FIRST THING THE PROFESSIONAL REPAIRMAN DOES FOR YOUR COMPUTER ANYHOW; AND IT COSTS YOU XXX bucks ***. Raise your computer 20-30 inches above a flat rigid surface, like wooden table or floor. Slam your computer evenly against the flat surface using moderate force. This will do the trick nine times of ten"

That was the funny story but here is my 2 cents: I had a problem with some prototype dont remember what but I was experimenting with 4049 or 4001 inverter chips and one reused chip with bended legs tried always jump off a low quality socket. I drilled small holes to the pcb board near the chip and socket and tied it with stiff insulated wire
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Gringo

Quote from: NasseI drilled small holes to the pcb board near the chip and socket and tied it with stiff insulated wire

Yeah, baby!! Now try to escape from THERE, you bastard!  :twisted:  :twisted:
Cut it large, and smash it into place with a hammer.
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