Cleaner DS-1?

[protokurios]

Hi everybody,

I'm new to the forums, but I have visited the site many times to pick up all the great information here.  I'm trying to make my Boss DS-1 cleaner so that when the distortion is rolled all the way down and the guitar's volume is lowered a bit, it will sound clean.  I took out the clipping diodes (D4 and D5), but it's still distorting a lot.  It also sounds muddier.  Do you guys know of a solution to this?

Also, when I close up everything and put the screws back in the panel, the pedal doesn't let the guitar's signal through when it's off.  When I turn the pedal on, I hear the sound coming from the amp, but when it's off, I don't hear anything coming from the amp.  I don't think any wires are touching inside and shorting the circuit, but I could be wrong.  Is there any other way that this could be happening?

Thanks,
Sam

[strungout]

Hmm I dunno why you would want to have to turn down two knobs to get a clean sound when you could get it with one switch (stompswitch, or other) to switch to bypass... alot quicker. If bypass volume is too low, you could stick a booster on the bypass path.

As to the pedal not working, the bypass is definately not working if when the pedal is off, the signal doesn't get through. Bypass is usually just a wire going from the input jack to a switch and out to the output jack, so I'd check the solder points on that.

Ciao.

[petemoore]

IIRC the DS-1 wouldn't be the optimal place to start for 'clean' boost.
 I think it will always be a better Distortion that Booster.
 I would do the above wiring check, try frist getting it to work again.
 I'm looking for an inexpensive DS-1, [used to have very different earlier/later Boss DS-1's] and pulling the OA for starters, and putting something nice in there, then work on the tone knob [if it's one that needs it/probably], then maybe try some diode tweaks.
 Rather than turning it into something else, I would retain most of what it is and simply improve what's there. This IS a reputable cct. with a  [more recent] checkered past.
 I don't know of the Newest ones, the new ones didn't work like the old ones.

[Fret Wire]

I agree with what Pete said. After you sort out your wiring, put D4 back in, and put a 3mm red LED in D5. That decreases the amount of distortion, the unit has more than you'll need anyway. It will allow it to go cleaner on the other end. Not into clean boost territory though. Phillip over at Fuzz Central has a nice set of mods for the DS-1, based on some of Keeley's mods.

http://fuzzcentral.tripod.com/

http://www.robertkeeley.com/home.php

http://www.robertkeeley.com/audio6l6/dstech.html

[protokurios]

Thanks guys for your help.  The only reason I wanted to make the DS-1 cleaner was because the bypass wasn't working.  I guess the best thing for me to do is get the bypass working again.

So here's the situation on the bypass:  When the back panel is off, and the circuit board is lifted out of the pedal, it works when it's off.  But when I put the board back in and replace the panel, it doesn't work.  I'll check the input, switch, and output solder points.

The Fuzz Central website is really interesting.  I might follow his directions to mod my SD-1 and maybe get a new DS-1 and mod that one, since this current one is dying.  On the current DS-1, I put in a 1N4001 in D4 and a low current 5mm red LED in D5.  Does it make a difference if I use a low current LED or just a regular LED?  Have you guys tried out Phillip's mods on your SD-1 or DS-1?  How are they?

Thanks again.  Pete, can you explain your acronyms there?  I figured IIRC, but I don't know OA and cct.  Also, is the Weller Marksman SP23L an okay soldering iron?  It wasn't very expensive, and it seems better than the old RadioShack one I had, but it seems to oxidize really quickly and not transfer heat very well to the traces.  Maybe I need to relearn how to solder...

[Fret Wire]

cct. = circuit & OA=op-amp (chip). Good idea to check what you mentioned. Sounds like somethings shorting out. BTW, there is a plastic sheet that goes between the circuit board and the bottom of the pedal. It's meant to prevent the solder traces from shorting and grounding out on the pedal chassis (bottom plate). Is it still in place? If it is, here's another thing to try: remove the board, plug in, and have someone strum on the guitar while you take a pencil, chopstick or other non-conductive probe, and move the wiring around. If one is loose, it'll cut in and out when you move it with the probe.

Different size and voltage LEDs will change output and sound somewhat. Originally the mod was a 3mm red. Yes, the mods on Fuzz Central work great. They're based on Keeley's mods which also work real good.

[protokurios]

Yes, the plastic sheet is still there.  Thanks for the suggestion.  I'll try it out soon.  What kind of op amp is a good replacement?  Does it make much difference?

[Fret Wire]

Is the OA an inline, like in the photo of Keeley's (3rd link I posted)? Or is it the standard 8-pin DIP, which looks more like a little square? Plenty of options for the standard, not many for the inline.

[protokurios]

It's inline.  Stock OA is Mitsubishi M5223AL-145002, if I read the numbers correctly.  I've never heard of replacing the OA of the DS-1, but if there's an option, maybe I can try it.

[Fret Wire]

Anolog Mike says that there is a JRC version of the inline chip that sounds better than the original, but I still haven't been able to find it. I've done all the other mods, and would like to try that OA.