harmonizer posted

Paul Perry (Frostwave) · May 06, 2004, 10:15:02 PM

Quote from: rocketi can't quite understand how the circuit works, especially around q3. is there no dc at the emitter?

Looks like the current goes from the battery, through Q3, then through the rest of the transistors to the right (via the diode at the emitter of Q3).
Or in the opposite direction, if you are an electron

moosapotamus · May 07, 2004, 08:34:18 AM

Cool! Those clips sound great, Joe!

Any idea how this might sound on bass?

~ Charlie

Phorhas · May 07, 2004, 08:59:09 AM

Thst's sweet Joe...

As always...

now how about a good old warm-analog-deep-spinning thingy-phazer...
por chorus?

Paul Marossy · May 07, 2004, 10:08:49 AM

Built it last night. It fits nicely on a 2"x2" piece of perf. (I finally used up a bunch of free perf!) I'm going to test it out this afternoon.

Marcos - Munky · May 07, 2004, 11:14:18 AM

I drew a layout for it. Now I need to put the parts value, but it will be online soon.

tsname · May 07, 2004, 12:24:54 PM

Wow, that is a really awesome effect. Something I'd like to try and work on in the near future.

Joe, I was looking at your website and saw a schematic for your "LED Trick." Is this a bypass with LED? Looks simple, since it's asking for a 2N3904 Transistor, and I actually have one laying around...

*EDIT* Ah hah! I see it, it is a bypass with LED. Danke...

Samuel · May 07, 2004, 01:27:11 PM

So if that gain stage is just to get the amplitude up enough to trigger the freq. follower, could you stick a clean booster in front of the frequency follower and get closer to the holy grail of analog clean octave down?

puretube · May 07, 2004, 01:30:43 PM

clean? :roll:

Samuel · May 07, 2004, 01:48:02 PM

Well, cleaner

Lonehdrider · May 07, 2004, 01:54:45 PM

Pretty cool, and all components I have... Yea! I'll give it a whirl...

Regards,

Lone

RDV · May 07, 2004, 01:59:34 PM

Hey, lets put a tube in front of it, & put it in a steel box. :wink: :wink:

RDV

puretube · May 07, 2004, 02:07:22 PM

rather put it behind to warm things up...

Marcos - Munky · May 07, 2004, 04:49:09 PM

Here is the link of the layout. I didn't tried it, but I think it's correct. If anybody finds a error or use it, please tell me.

http://www.geocities.com/munkydiy/shocktave.gif

Ben N · May 07, 2004, 04:56:59 PM

Woo Hoo! That has to be the simplest octave down anyone has ever devised, and it sounds great, too--kinda like an Octavia, in reverse! Joe, I wonder if a little of your diode compression might go well with the input stage.
Ben

Ben N · May 07, 2004, 04:57:18 PM

Woo Hoo! That has to be the simplest octave down anyone has ever devised, and it sounds great, too--kinda like an Octavia, in reverse! Joe, I wonder if a little of your diode compression might go well with the input stage.
Ben
Sorry about the double post--I don't know how that happened.

troubledtom · May 07, 2004, 05:28:57 PM

vary cool joe!!!!!! :twisted:
-tom

Paul Marossy · May 07, 2004, 10:40:41 PM

Well, I tested my circuit today. (Fired up the first time, as usual). Got a box drilled and painted today, too. I don't think mine sound quite the same as the sound clip, though... it doesn't seem to have enough of an octave effect. I think I know what it might be. Anyhow, it's kind of interesting to watch the voltage change on the collectors of the transistors in the ocillator section when you play something. The way mine is currently, it sounds OK with chords.

Now, I'm not bragging about having my circuits work the first time around, really. It's just that I recently have found a way to construct on perf that really cuts down on mistakes. Here's what I do:
I take a piece of this stuff I have that is commonly referred to as "stickyback". It's a clear plastic sheet that you can print stuff on and stick onto things. I use it for my graphics on my boxes. Anyhow, I take a blank piece and stick onto the side of the perfboard opposite the side that I will be soldering. This gives me a surface to write on. Next, I take an extra-fine point Sharpie marker and layout everything on the perfboard and get all the connections and layout worked out before I solder anything. I double check all of this against the schematic before I solder anything. When it's all good, I just solder the parts together per my layout, and voila!, it works. It's almost as easy as populating a PCB.

This method works pretty well for me. Maybe this might give others some ideas, I hope.

petemoore · May 08, 2004, 03:22:37 AM

Sounds like a timesaver method to me.
Could help you keep your hair younger looking too.

Sic · May 08, 2004, 04:37:07 AM

paul, i like that idea... where do you find that stickyback stuff?

wal-mart? craft store?

Paul Marossy · May 08, 2004, 09:50:12 AM

I have a couple of boxes of this stuff left over from my board drafting days. It's made be a company called "Rayven". They still make it, but it's like $100 a box, which has 50 sheets in it (I think). You could probably even use a few strips of scotch tape that has a matte surface, too.

I'm sure there is something comparable to it in a craft store/office supply place. It seems to take a little bit longer to build a circuit when you lay everything out first, but it greatly reduces the headache factor, especially if it works the first time around and you don't have to be frustrated trying to figure out whay it ain't working.

BTW, I guess my circuit does sound pretty much like the sound clip. But, with a guitar that has a built-in preamp, it does sound a little bit different.

EDIT: Joe, how much affect does the transistor Hfe have on the circuit? All of the transistors I used ranged between 720 and 820. It seems to me that it would mostly affect the amount of drive in the std. circuit. I also matched the transistor Hfe's in the oscillator section because that seemed like the right thing to do. But, would mismatching them or using two different types have a desirable effect?

News:

harmonizer posted