Newb that would like an opinion

[pbsk8er03]

Ok i am gonna build this using arons instructions becuase i wanna do it from scratch to really learn everything. Where can i buy all the parts ill need???

[pbsk8er03]

also can sum1 post a pic of the finished product???Does it have any knobs or anything or just an on/of switch???

[Peter Snowberg]

For the parts, I would recommend http://www.smallbearelec.com as Steve has pretty much everything you'll need in one place and with good prices.

For reference: http://www.diystompboxes.com/sboxforum/viewtopic.php?t=941

If you look at the picture of the back of the board, you'll see the circle at the bottom which is marked "back of 5K pot". That's the pot that sits behind the one knob on this box which sets the boost level.

If you look at the second picture in that same post (the one showing the jacks), you'll see a big blue square in the center with 9 tabs to solder to arranged as 3x3. That's the back of the stomp switch.

It should be noted that the stomp switch is optional with this effect becasue you may just find out that you want it on all the time. Eric Clapton and (RIP) Jerry Garcia's guitars contain boosters that are always on. For that matter, so does anybody who plays with active pickups.

Sorry I don't have a picture of this project in specific, but here is a shot of the Electro Harmonix LPB1 which is a similar device.




I'm glad you're going for the booster first. The Tweak-O looks really cool and if you look around here you'll see that Joe Davisson's engineering is very well respected for good reason, but it's much more complex for a first project.

Here is a picture of a 1 knob booster with a stompswitch from this thread.



Best of luck with your build!

Take care,
-Peter

[petemoore]

I ttried the Tweak-O as a first and second project...boy did I have troubles...I cursed perf at the time...the first one was a hanging garden style [I started with this style build...not so good 'n sturdy like perf or PCB].
 Did you look at a soldering tips write?...different tip contact times are highly recommended for soldering joints that require different amounts of thermal mass to be completely heated [the pad, any wires or leads, pot and switch lugs all must reach a temp where the solder will 'take'.
 I prefer cleaning the big cruds off before each joint, [I use a cheeepo iron and flick the thing to get globs off...good enough...I can't recommend it, you're supposed to use wet cotton cloth or something]...anyway I find it really helps if you don't have a large glob of 'spent' [freshly added solder flows and sticks much better] solder on the tip.
 So what I like to do is with thin solder, lay the tip of the solder on the part, [this makes the heat transfer immediately, and I find it's easier to more accurately calculate tip contact times using this method], then put more solder on fairly soon [immediately I begin aligning the next application] After the heat sinks in just a bit, [adding about 1/4 to 1/2 half inch of thin solder/depending on the node connections cumulative thermal mass] and I seem to do well with this method,...there are reads about soldering technique around,
 My iron is wedged in a brickhole, I bring the work and solder to it, and the smoke goes out the tube...some joints require access which requies me to do it on the table, and bring the iron to the work.  OT...what does YMMV mean
 I found I LIKE having something stationary [I can't hold the iron, solder and board very well at all at the same time], and under the exhaust tube,  that way the iron is solid, and I can tilt the perf this way or that, and make a clean approach, consistantly not messing solder around the board...A 'third hand' would be cool, but I could never adjust the angle with that hand near as quickly one of my own....
  ...or can you just 'slide' the pivots without tightening and loosening the set bolts?
 You'll surely get your system down, by reading soldering technique reads,  thinking out, and analyzing your 'approach and retreat angles', and moves carefully at first.

[pbsk8er03]

oooo ok. Thanx. I am very new and i thought that u needed a pot for the on off switch. U just buy the switch and wire it??? i dont see the switch included in the parts list. :?