What matters - what doesn't

[mugan]

alwais use a paper template tapered on the enclosure to drill it. it's fast
and accurate!

[aron]

If you are a beginner start with verified schematics that are known to work correctly.

[aron]

Beginner's read the FAQ  :roll:

[Arno van der Heijden]

Search the archives before asking basic questions that have been asked thousand times before  :twisted:

[Alpha123]

if you cant find what your looking for, dont be afraid to ask. Everyone was a newbie once(some continue to be :wink: ), and we all asked/ask dumb questions every now and again...

Just look in the archives before hand... :wink:

[zenpeace69]

This is a great thread.  I figured many of these things out the hard way.   :oops:

[petemoore]

Is it hit or miss?
 Try a few FF's and see...
 Dist+'s too
 Tubescreamers
 BMP [well I don't know if that would count even as sounding 'right', I only tried one].
 Having built these in small batches [FF's would consittute a large batch], some just work 'better' than others.
 These same boxes and switches have seen circuits come and go through them, I've got them 90% filled now [lol...I'm always tweekin'] with effects I like to use regularly, which wasn't the case say 5 or 10 circuit swaps ago. Seems the more circuits I try, the better the boxes work overall.
 For me it's still a bit like shooting in the dark, for example, I don't compare and check bais voltages [other than to see that they're close enough to work] and diode clip thresholds, I suppose that's what pedal makers would do to get more perfect consistancy from one pedal to the next [?].
 I like running random experiments with them, every so often [1 in 3? or so] I get a magic one that turns out to pass the "Keeper Test' over a long enough period of time to be secure in it's home [the box].
 Consistancy experiments might be cool too though...having never run them, and in the absence of a scope, I got by ear, and the board trim or surface mount pot, and therefore can only speculate blindly as to what resultant difference such fine tuning would make. ...lol I sure have gone through alot of diode swaps...
 It is purported that using some 1% tolerance resistors, in certain places or entire build, and close tolerance caps makes a difference, I tried some 'fancy' caps, don't know that I really heard a difference, or whether it 'made' a difference...I've been kind of meaning [ :roll: ] to build something with all the most expensive components available to see if there really is a functional difference warranting the higher price considerations, and parts roundup tribulations.

[Ge_Whiz]

1. Keep It Simple, Stupid

2. Many, many NPN transistors are 'general-purpose'. RARELY do you need a specific type.

3. Doubling or halving the value of a pot may give strange results, but the circuit should still work.

4. Boxes, switches, batteries are expensive. Resistors, capacitors, diodes and transistors are cheap. If you damage a cheap component, or think it is damaged, throw it away.

5. A quick lash-up, no matter how cool, will let you down on stage.

6. Captain Scarlet is indestructible. You are not. Remember this and do not try to emulate him.

7. If it's your first build, get it from ROG.

[Paul Marossy]

Don't sit on your soldering iron!  :shock:

[analogmike]

For mad scientists who keep brains in jars, here's a tip: why not add a slice of lemon to each jar, for freshness?

[analogmike]

OK, a real one:

AC128 transistors will not sound good in a fuzzface circuit 9 times out of ten. Show me an original 1960s fuzzface with AC128 transistors and original solder joints and I'll show you hen's teeth.

Small Bear is a much better solution than buying trannies on ebay that I and people like me have already picked through for the good ones.

[ExpAnonColin]

Yes, you can use stereo jacks in place of mono jacks, and yes, you can used switch jacks in place of non-switched jacks.

[ExpAnonColin]

Don't use metal DC jacks when dealing with center negative DC plugs.

[ExpAnonColin]

Always chassis ground (if you are using metal shafted jacks, that's no problem, but if they're plastic, go out of your way to make sure that there is a chassis ground).

[ExpAnonColin]

When you can here the effect or a tone when the effect is bypassed, use a grounded input bypass scheme.

[ExpAnonColin]

Hammond boxes are always better than RACO boxes.

[ExpAnonColin]

Yes, you can use the taiwanese jacks, and yes, they will break faster.

-Colin

[aron]

Always start out with a bigger box than you need if you are just starting out. There is no substitute for having ROOM in a box. Many beginners try to start out with too small a box and have problems when  they have to cram everything in a small space resulting in shorts or broken wires etc.....

[aron]

Following up on RACO vs. Hammond 1590 series. Aluminum is much easier to drill than the steel RACO boxes. That is the primary reason why a 1590 series box is so easy to use. The RACO is functional, but tough to drill. USE A VISE to hold the box.

[aron]

When you drill a box, use goggles. It looks and feels stupid, but it works and protects you.