zw od

guitarmonky55 · November 26, 2004, 11:00:09 PM

anyone know if theres a place on the net i could get my hands on the schematic for the mxr zakk wylde overdrive pedal? im a big zakk fan and would kill to be able to build that one

cd · November 26, 2004, 11:21:16 PM

Take an SD-1, remove the output buffer, double the value of the tone caps. That's all.

guitarmonky55 · November 27, 2004, 12:06:16 AM

sounds pretty easy, ill check it out. thanks!

G Kresge · November 27, 2004, 05:59:29 AM

For those of us without the SD1 schematic, could someone post which cap numbers these are and the location of the output buffer? Thanks.

Quote from: cdTake an SD-1, remove the output buffer, double the value of the tone caps. That's all.

petemoore · November 27, 2004, 10:23:08 AM

I dunno...
Did you look at Fuzz Central ??

cd · November 27, 2004, 03:06:05 PM

Use the schematic links above for the SD-1 schem. And read "Technology of the Tubescreamer" at GEO for more info.

G Kresge · November 27, 2004, 03:51:35 PM

Thank you.

Quote from: cdUse the schematic links above for the SD-1 schem. And read "Technology of the Tubescreamer" at GEO for more info.

G Kresge · November 28, 2004, 12:01:27 AM

Quote from: cdUse the schematic links above for the SD-1 schem. And read "Technology of the Tubescreamer" at GEO for more info.

Okay, I guess I was trying to kid myself by thinking I could actually follow the scematics. I haven't got any idea what the heck I'm looking at. :cry:

Phorhas · November 28, 2004, 04:14:00 PM

QuoteTake an SD-1, remove the output buffer, double the value of the tone caps. That's all

He cd, what caps are these exactly?

BTW - did you open one up?

G Kresge · November 29, 2004, 05:05:23 AM

Quote from: Phorhas
QuoteTake an SD-1, remove the output buffer, double the value of the tone caps. That's all

He cd, what caps are these exactly?

I'd appreciate some help with that one as well. Just reading through some of the threads here, I feel a bit intimidated by the vast amounts of knowledge that I do not have that many others here DO have. :wink:

MartyMart · November 29, 2004, 05:15:50 AM

On the SD-1, caps C2, C3 and C12 will be the ones you want, I think thats at "Fuzz Central" too
Their original values are:
C2 .1uf ( 104 )
C3 .1uf ( 104 )
C12 .027uf ( 273 )
Before anyone like "wampcat1" jumps in, NO they are not stolen mod values !!!
If you do follow the Fuzz central details, you will get a great sounding SD-1

Cheers,
Marty.

WGTP · November 29, 2004, 12:18:22 PM

Look at the ROG Tube Reamer, it is very simple and there are some mod's floating around. Just add an extra diode to one of the pair for the SD-1 deal. No buffer to mess with.

cd · November 29, 2004, 12:33:26 PM

Are you working from a stock SD-1? Sorry, I didn't pick up on that - there's actually no way you can mod an SD-1 to a ZW44 without some extensive (and complicated) rewiring. Not to sound like a d*ck but if you can't read a schematic I don't think it's something you should be doing to your pedal (i.e. mess it up for good!)

If you want to cop the ZW44 tone, it's easy. Take your SD-1 on your favorite setting... then just turn the TONE knob to the left about an eighth of a turn. The ZW44 is basically a stock SD-1 with a MORE pronounced mid hump.

AL · November 29, 2004, 01:10:55 PM

G Kresge wrote

QuoteI'd appreciate some help with that one as well. Just reading through some of the threads here, I feel a bit intimidated by the vast amounts of knowledge that I do not have that many others here DO have.

Sounds like you need a "primer". Check out the DIY FAQ and the GEO FAQ at the top of the page. Those are good places to start.

AL

G Kresge · November 29, 2004, 04:03:27 PM

Thanks for your input guys, that's a big help to me. Don't worry about coming off sounding like a d*ck. I didn't take it that way at all. I am a total novice and I know that. I'll check out the links for a "primer". Thanks. I appreciate the tip.

rama claproth · April 06, 2007, 05:45:12 PM

If you have an SD1 boss pedal, you can convert it into MXR ZW44 specs!

1. Remove one leg of the resistor 33K (R5) that goes with 4K7 (R6) and connect to the diode's leg (D1) that goes to pin 7 at the opamp chip. Remove yellow wire # 4 at the PCB and also remove red wire # 2. Connect yellow wire at # 2, # 4 stays EMPTY. Connect red wire to where the 33K resistor's leg USED to stay that connects with the resistor 4K7 at R6, now this automatically goes to the opamp at pin 6.

2. Replace C4 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

3. Replace C5 with a 0.047uF capacitor.

4. Replace R3 with a 22K resistor.

5. Replace C7 with a 3.3uF capacitor.

6. Remove Q6, R15, R16, R17, and C10. These NO NEED jumpers. The white wire # 12 at the PCB must be removed and has to be connected into the hole where the base pin of Q6 used to stay.

7. Remove brown wire # 1 at the PCB and connect into ground.

8. Change Q5 with MPSA14 transistor. This is OPTIONAL.

DONE!

Hanglow · April 06, 2007, 08:01:50 PM

that's really nice, but why have you posted the same things on three threads, this one being amusing of course as it's three years old

rama claproth · April 07, 2007, 07:31:44 PM

so many people had tried to mod their sd1's into zw44 specs but never did it right, so here i would like to share and how to do it right. it's been 3 years with no replies maybe because these fellows gave up on how to do it, so i just want to help and share. i bet there are lots of people trying to get infos on how to mod an sd1 into zw44 specs but unable to get enough infos, so i guess it will be helpful for them. i'm sorry i post the same thing in other threads cuz i checked those threads they are in the same topic. but next time i'll follow your advice bro..

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