Tremulus Lune As-Built (from tonepad)/w pics NOW FINISHED

[KMS]

Hey everyone,

I'm going to post the day to day results of this build like an as-built/debugging report, so others can learn from the mistakes that I'm pretty sure I'll make.

12/21
Printed circuit on Press-n-Peel Blue (PnP Blue) at work today with HP laser printer. I used the PnP Blue saver method of making a paper print first and then cutting a small piece of PnP Blue and taping it over the first print and then manual feed back into printer. I used Scotch Tape and only taped the two corners on the leading edge. Set printer on 600 dpi. Came out perfect.

Note; last time I printed my noise gate circuit at Kinko’s Kopy, with unknown printer and set iron on the synthetic setting moving the iron around slow on the circuit board with a piece of regular print paper between the PnP Blue and the iron.  Took about two minutes and it was my first PCB and it turned out great. (Beginners luck!).

With the different toner used at my work, the synthetic setting was too low.  They buy the cheapest toner around.  

I did everything right just as I did with the noise gate, quenched it in water after the iron and waited until the PnP Blue started lifting on its own then finished pulling the PnP Blue off and only about half of the circuit stuck.

I was determined to make it work so I carefully and thoroughly dried the PnP Blue and the PCB (under a lamp) and re-aligned the PnP Blue over the partial circuit on the board (this took some time and a steady hand) and set the iron on the wool setting, moved it around on half the PCB while I held the other half in place (no print paper medium between the PnP Blue and the iron).  Then when it got too hot to hold I released my hand and moved the iron over to finish heating the entire PCB.  I kept the iron moving slowly for about three minutes and quenched in cold water, waited for the PnP Blue to start to release on its own but it was stuck down pretty hard so I went ahead and slowly pulled it off.  It was a good “stick” with no gaps in the continuity but I touched up some areas with a Sharpie (single coat) where I could see a smidge of copper shining through the traces.  Let the Sharpie dry for an hour under a lamp.  Etched in Ferric Chloride in large Pyrex Measuring Cup (one quart) in my office with no mess. Took 15 minutes to etch and turned out perfect.

I am going to use the digital camera at work to take some pics of broken Flanger and I will also take a pic of this PCB and post on my next as-built/debugging post.


KMS

[KMS]

This is the board that I made last night.




Tinning and drilling holes tonight.



KMS

[Fret Wire]

That answers what schematic you're using.  I'm going to try the Tonepad version also. Are you going LED/LDR or Vactrol? I'm going to try the Vactrol first. I'm going to lay mine out for a 1590b, Z-Vex style. What are you tinning your boards with? I used to use Tinnit, I liked the results but hated the process. Now I use MG's Liquid Tin. More expensive, but no mess, and great plating results.

Now we'll have two build/debugging reports.

[KMS]

I used to use Tinnit, I liked the results but hated the process. Now I use MG's Liquid Tin. More expensive, but no mess, and great plating results.quote]

I'm just learning the hard way as usual.  I never heard of the stuff you mentioned, but now I will look for it.

I'm using silver bearing solder (real thin gage and low temp)  It took a while for me to get the hang of it but I can go around the vias quickly now.

I think it looks like crap, but I will try to dress it up as much as possible.

I was going to try the LED/LDR.  I haven't bought the parts yet but my supplier has everything in stock so maybe I'll pick up a Vactrol too as I will most likely be trying to debug this thing over the holidays and the store will be closed.

I use a large box with a layout that I designed for all my boxes (that I might change).  It includes a stomp bypass with a MOM. The MOM has an inverter toggle. My plan is to empty all the boxes when I'm done and put it all in a floor counsel.  I need to get my chain finished and splitter/buffer/loop/mixer set up for variety and then put it all in one with a power supply. Until then I don't know how I want it all set up.

Thanks for your comments; I learn something from everyone right now. Even the seemingly insignificant comments are important to me.

I will watch for you build/debug posts and learn plenty from them I’m sure.


KMS

[Fret Wire]

I didn't like Tinnit because of the mixing and heating, and resulting fumes. It does plate good, however. Liguid Tin saves me time and mess, because all you do is pour it in a non-metallic container, drop in the boards, and in a few minutes it's done. No heating or mixing. The plate is just as durable as any other method. It's $17 a bottle, but you'll get a lot of use from it. It stores indefinately too.

http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/421.html

For solder, next time you need some, try the 63/37 solder. It works and flows great. Big difference between it and standard 60/40 solder. A pleasure to work with. It was one of the best tips I ever got on this forum(from Peter Snowberg).
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6262

[KMS]

Horizontal drilling;

You can do this with any small bit job (1/16 in or smaller) and not break any bits.

Don’t try it on bits larger the 1/16 in or you will cut your hand when the bit comes through the back side as the piece of work will spin out of control.

Hold a portable drill with a flat bottom battery down to the table. This keeps the drill stable and you don’t have to judge the difference between the weight of the drill and your own strength like some people who try to drill in a vertical position.

Chuck the bit up short, about 1in to 1/2 in sticking out of the chuck.

Move the PCB into the drill bit while keeping the portable drill tight to the table.

Check your alignment to insure that you a near perpendicular (90 degree angle) so you parts will fit on the board like they are supposed to. A little slop in alignment won’t hurt as the leads are flexible. Watch the IC holes a little closer as IC leads are not as flexible.

Be careful when drilling on the index finger side of the PCB as you cab easily drill into your finger.  I just flip the board over.  This is the same drill bit .0032 in that I used to drill all of the holes on my last Stomp Box PCB.  I’m not done drilling yet but I can easily say that I won’t break this bit on this job either.

If you tin your board it will center the bit in the via as you star drilling, so no center punch needed and if you push through a “little” too much, the chuck will not damage the copper clad that is protected with the tinning. Don’t push through as habit though, I said a “little” too much.

Keep a bright light behind your work so the center of the via is illuminated through the epoxy of the PCB and you will be able to easily and quickly line up the bit.

My last board was about 100 holes and it took me about 30 minutes to drill.  I’ll time this one tonight and report it later.

KMS


Thanks for the info Fret Wire, by the way; can you get some fret wire? I don't know where to get it from around here.

[Fret Wire]

Thanks for the info Fret Wire, by the way; can you get some fret wire? I don't know where to get it from around here.

fret wire, plus all the tools and files to install, level, and crown it.
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Fretwire.html

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies.html

[Hal]

oh mannnn that picture is intese.  I thought i was hardcore using my standard drill press rather than the 'ideal' dremmel with press.  That takes skill.

you can get fretwire from stew mac...

www.stewmac.com

[KMS]

Thanks guys for the diy guitar sites.  I will need new frets soon (I have two that need it now but I’m adjusting as I play with no problem).  

That would have made a good Xmas present if I could have insisted earlier.

The holes are done. Took 28 minutes and I counted 92 holes.  

The drill bit is dull but it is not broken.  I’ll try to sharpen it on my sharp stone.  Shouldn’t take but a couple of passes.

I sanded the lumps out of my silver solder tinning and it looks pretty good now.  I have to wait until after midnight to post a pic as the free image uploaded site that I’m using is doing maintenance from 10:00 pm to 1:00 am.  It is 10:35 here right now. I could just find another site.

I bought all the parts today, $45 and they had everything but the Vactrol.  I got a CLM6000 (for the LED/LDR).  I also got Cds cell and LED just in case.  The CLM6000 is 500K to 500 ohms.  Not quite perfect but I think it will work.  The thing I’m worried about is it has 500 ms speed to 100K.  That might limit my depth quite a bit. They had a whole bin full of the CLM6000 and CLM8000.  Not much difference in the spec sheet between the two.  I think they can get a sub for the Vactrol but they were real busy today and the place is 10 min. from my work so I go by at lunch any time.  

Now the fun begins, putting parts on the board!

KMS

[Fret Wire]

http://www.bgmicro.com/prodinfo.asp?sid=06715393518518526319024077&prodid=ICSVTL5LC2

[KMS]

Boy that's a good price.

The CLM6000 was $2.95 and I got two, I do that a lot and usually for no reason.

I can see now that the rise and decay times are going to be what primarily sets the type of wave form for this pedal (I think) and I also wonder if a Vactrol/CLM600/and a LED with Cds cell and shrink wrap would each produce a different wave form. If so, extra room in the box would be handy to set up a rotary switch and select different wave forms.
I could be wrong about this, I'm still a noob.

The CLM6000 decay is 500 ms at 20 ma and the rise is 3.5 ms at 63% of final condition and 40 ma.

It has 50mw current consumption. Reverse current at 4v is 100uA max. Forward current is 40ma max. Forward voltage at 20ma is 2V max. Cell voltage is 60V max.


There are a lot of variables to consider with this stuff.  I hope it works, and it will be fun to experiment with it.


KMS

[KMS]

Here is the tinned board with the holes and IC sockets.




KMS

[KMS]

A shot of the CLM6000




KMS

[KMS]

The board now Populated;



KMS

[KMS]

And my solder job;




Now to hook up the pots and switches and stuff and fire it up.


KMS

[Fret Wire]

Nice work.   It took me a second before I realized that was a vertical mount trimmer. Are those yellow electro's 1uf? Well, you're ahead of me right now. After Xmas I'll etch the board and populate. I already have all the components in stock. I plan on adding the sawtooth wave switch also.

[KMS]

Thanks. The yellow caps are 1uf, 65V.  

Yeh, the Sawtooth mod.  I saw that over at commonsound.com and it looks easy.

Could put another pot yet (100K) on the box in place of the vertical trim on the board and have a gain control.

I have used online tremolos, several, and the Sawtooth is just what the name suggests, very rough sounding.  It can be smoothed out with the depth.  There are already 5 pots on the top of the box; six would make an even number.  I'll have to think about my layout and decide if the Sawtooth is worth it.  I think there are other waveforms also, but I’m not sure how to do them.  I fairly sure the Tremulus is set up stock with the sin wave.

I'm got all the pictures of my broken Flanger and I’m going to start a new thread to help me fix it.  Hopefully.

KMS

[KMS]

Well I guess I'll keep this going all the way into the box, not that I'm that proud of my box design, but so all can see the final product.

The CLM6000 is as smooth and fast as ever.

I fired it up tonight and it worked the first run.  Very versatile selection of wave forms.  I won't need any mods, this FX is great.  Depth is very good but only about half the pot rotation is used and then the depth is 0.
The spacing and smoothness controls combined will make just about whatever kind of wave you'll need.

I'll definitely put 100K log pot in place of the 25K trim pot.  This FX has a lot gain. Something tells me that as the battery current decreases I'll need to adjust the level.

I'll post a pic tomorrow showing the bench test.


I always like it when my project works the first time I fire it up!


KMS

[KMS]

All done and ready for a new project.

The bench test




The SPDT MOM swithch I built, because it is very durrable.

This is best MOM that I found to be satisfactory for the heavy stomp MOM.
Take the guts out and modifyit just happens to be a SPST, bummer.




Use double sided copper clad PCB and tin it to extend the mounting frame. The actuator and spring of the old swicth are shown along with a micro SPDT MOM.





Heat a steel rod to get uniform heating while soldering the PCB frame apparatus to retrofit the new switch.  Stop when you hear poping sound as the copperclad is trying to lift off the epoxy.





Apply flux to the steel frame before tinning the PCB aparatus to the old frame.





Apply solder blob to frame to monitor heat transfer across the the steel frame when tinning second apparatus to other side of old frame. Also put a compression shim between both PCB apparatus to hold the second one in place while keeping pressure on it durring the final heating.  I used a hard rubber shim (old window glass setting blocks).





Heat a plate to use as an heat-iron for tinning the PCB aparatus to each side of the old frame.  I use MAPP GAS because it gets the meatal real hot, real fast.





Use a vise-grip plyers to the iron frame for a handle and as a heat sink when tinning the second PCB aparatus. Whatch the solder blob and make sure to take it off the heat immeadiatly if it melts or if you hear a poping sound, if so, the tinning is finished.




Finished SPDT MOM. Now I can use a toggle SPDT together with this switch and change from a NO MOM to a NC MOM.  This function I find needed as I like to beable to push and release the stomp in exact time with the music and I infrequently need it ON MOM and OFF MOM, depending on the song.  You will see this on the finished pedal marked as NC/NO MOM.


AND THE BOX



I start with the stomp holes since I know where they will be.




First night’s work on the box.




Ready to test and add mods.




All the mods done and ready to get the big hammer out and smash it all in the box.
Notice the second LFO (gray cap 50uf) on the left of the wire mass.  Just to the right of the purple (looks blue) cap “100uf” there is a hand made LED/LDR that I used for noiseless switching on the Rate Doubler MOM marked RC on the top view.  I made the Rate Doubler with two different LFOs and three different options on the RC MOM via a 3 Position rotary DP3T.




The final product:

Far left you can barley see a very sturdy micro MOM (DP3T) marked "RC" with three different options for switching the Rate Doubler.  It is low enough that it does not interfere with the Master defeat stomp.

Far Right is a DPDT True Bypass that I use when the power is off only so I don’t have to pull this thing out of my chain I can conserve Battery life.

The Defeat is a master to the slave NC/NO MOM which is between the lug 3 of the depth pot and the PCB circuit.  Note when the depth is “zero” the LFO is defeated and the gain still works so it is totally noiseless switching with no tone sucking, better than true by pass.  The unit works as a preamp in the defeat mode.  




Going from right to left;

IN/OUT then the NC/NO MOM selector (the slave)
The 3 Position Rotary that controls the RC MOM
The Sawtooth selector
Power on and Power off
A Ni Hyd Rechargeable 9V and the AC adapter.





I call the two LFOs a 50uf and a 100uf but they are really two 50 uf caps and two 100uf caps in each LFO because of the Rate Doubler mod. You should be able to make out the three functions of the RC MOM from this now.




This is what it looks like with my size 11 foot on it.



Now I’m going to build a compressor.  What do you think the OS, the DOD, or the ROSS?  How about all three in one box?

KMS

[Fp-www.Tonepad.com]

NICE!

...

Now I’m going to build a compressor. What do you think the OS, the DOD, or the ROSS? How about all three in one box?

All three in one box sounds good... Those three compressors are VERY different from each other.

I'd build the ross in one box and the other two in another one. (Actually That's what I did! )

Fp