Adding LED to "Vintage" RAT ?

[MartyMart]

I just picked up a re-issue "vintage rat" which has no status LED.
Sounds great, though I may look at some of Jacks changes.
It has a 3dpdt switch, with the middle "row" of pins unused.
can I just use that row "as normal" to wire in the LED ?
I would normally use two adjacent rows for the circuit/jacks and the `"outside" row for LED on/off. . . . any ideas if this will produce problems
before I start "hacking" up the rat   !!

Thanks,
Marty.

[p1_ind]

When ever I wire up a 3PDT switch I usually use the center row for the LED
to give the most seperation between the input and output wires.

I modded a Vintage Rat for a friend of mine and used the middle row for the
LED and it worked fine.  Although his origionally had a DPDT that I had to
change to a 3PDT.  I would also suggest making sure it uses the input
grounding switching method because it is high gain.

Good luck,
Adam

[somis9]

hey p1, I am trying to put in a 3PDT and LED on my Vintage Rat.  Not much info on the net.  I am looking for a nice diagram, but really I think I just need to know what the wires coming from the chip are.  I am not very experienced with modding.  I've only done this on my Vox wah but it was successful.  Any help you could give would really be appreciated.

[petemoore]

  I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work just fine, oscillation or bleed thru...well somebody should try it with a 'standard dpdt/3PDT [w/led] arrangement...1 row for input [*bypass/jack/circuit] 1 row for output [*BJC], and 2/3rds of the last row for the LED.
  I think standard wired switch with LED should work fine, the RATs I've re-switched [sw failure] had 'standard linear' switch wiring, but must have had the LED with a Jfet/diode separate millineum type affair...and these RAT's, stock, I've seen nor heard of unwanted whatever in bypass or Rat Distortion mode.
  I would say if you're just a bit familiar with a 3pdt, wiring it up using the 'two outside' rows replacing the 2pdt that it came with is easy...if you're not familiar with switch bypassing read GEO, get the DMM on beep mode, and with pen and paper plot out the switch until you get what it's doing inside and how that relates to bypass wiring[s...
  then just add the current limiting resistor/LED string from V+ to V_  [jack sleeve not recommended] through the side of the switch [2 of the 3 lugs is all that uses] that the bypass jumper isn't on.

[formerMember1]

For me, I ALWAYs get pops from LEDs, but one thing that i did that lessened the pop and noise was to use the far right lugs for the LED and to NOT use the center.  I used to use the center column of lugs for the LEd but found out from AnalogMike that it makes more of a chance for the power to jump to other lugs and cause noise/pops becuase it is in the center.  Since i moved to the far right lugs, it is less pops and stuff, but i still am going to stop using LEDS all together.  I like them, but i can never get them to not pop. 

I tried the grounded input wiring, but for some reason, It made the pops worse,... don't know why, because i hear it is supposed to stop/help that sort of thing....

then just add the current limiting resistor/LED string from V+ to V_  [jack sleeve not recommended] through the side of the switch...

Hey Petemoore.  Why do you not recommend connecting the LED ground directly to the jack sleeve?  I also see others saying to not connect the 1Mor2M2 pulldown resistors directly to the Jack sleeve.(think Teese said this  on analogman's in FAQ)  Where do you advise to connect it?  Directly to board ground?  I don't understand why this makes a difference, all the grounds are connected anyway,...

sorry for highjacking martymart 

[Toney]

Hey Marty,
I was looking at getting one of those too.
The big box one, right? Supposed to be an exact re-issue, but I've heard that before..
How does it look to you? Bid they use the LM308?

[petemoore]

For me, I ALWAYs get pops from LEDs, but one thing that i did that lessened the pop and noise was to use the far right lugs for the LED and to NOT use the center.  I used to use the center column of lugs for the LEd but found out from AnalogMike that it makes more of a chance for the power to jump to other lugs and cause noise/pops becuase it is in the center.  Since i moved to the far right lugs, it is less pops and stuff, but i still am going to stop using LEDS all together.  I like them, but i can never get them to not pop. 
  >>Tha's good stuff ^^^, I'd add since the output doesn't go into the RAT's amp system [bein' an output 'n all], put the LED on the far right, output next to it/in the middle row, then the input farthest from the LED.
I tried the grounded input wiring, but for some reason, It made the pops worse,... don't know why, because i hear it is supposed to stop/help that sort of thing....

then just add the current limiting resistor/LED string from V+ to V_  [jack sleeve not recommended] through the side of the switch...

I suppose it'd be easy to ask [or test] if a larger current limiting resistor would limit pop somewhat in YMMV.
Hey Petemoore.  Why do you not recommend connecting the LED ground directly to the jack sleeve?  I also see others saying to not connect the 1Mor2M2 pulldown resistors directly to the Jack sleeve.(think Teese said this  on analogman's in FAQ)  Where do you advise to connect it?  Directly to board ground?  I don't understand why this makes a difference, all the grounds are connected anyway,...
  >>Dagnabbitt...I DID type Sleeve...sorry, and was thinking Ring...anywhere ground is handy. [Ring connection might leave the LED an on even with input unplugged].
sorry for highjacking martymart 

[formerMember1]

oh, gotch ya. 

[somis9]

does anybody know what the wires coming from the chip are? There are 5. Two are labeled "ALL," 2 are labeled "R.T / V" and one is just "V."  That is really the info I need to get this baby working.

[MartyMart]

Hey Marty,
I was looking at getting one of those too.
The big box one, right? Supposed to be an exact re-issue, but I've heard that before..
How does it look to you? Bid they use the LM308?

Jeez, this is an old thread !!
They do use the 308 and it looked "100%" accurate to me, sounded pretty good too
I bought Jacks "Muff/Rat" e-book ( highly recommended) and did some work to it, but never got round to adding
the LED ...... after all with a Rat "you KNOW when it's switched on"  !!

MM

[formerMember1]

LOL!    I didn't even realize how old the thread was,... hehe... i just assumed it was new...   

[somis9]

you can definately tell when its on... when you are playing.  what about when you're about to start the next song? better remember if you switched it off or not.  sometimes not easy to do with the excitement on stage.

so not to be rude but my question has yet to be addressed, and I am the one who brought this old thread around again.  should I take it that nobody knows the answer?

[formerMember1]

jeez, no i wasn't  being rude or anything like that, i was just commenting to MartyMarts post about the thread is old.  He was just reflecting back to when he was doing this mod to the pedal and it was over a year ago, he wasn't being rude either. I just thought it was funny becuase i didn't see the thread was old until it was pointed out to me.

if i could help anymore i would, but i have enough problems with LED's, so can't comment too much.

someone will chime in for you soon, don't worry....