help re: java boost clone

[dansamp]

ok, i have everything wired up !!!!
how do i wire up the LED ??
:cry:  :cry:

[bryantbr]

The LED is mounted to the board.  From the Power supply - to RL (5.62K) - to LED (anode/+) from LED (cathode/flat) to 3PDT lug (7)

[bryantbr]

Sorry Dansamp.  Are you building Torchy's stripboard version?

[dansamp]

yeah i am using torchy's strip board
but i guess it doesn' really matter 'cause the thing doesn't work!! :evil:
i plugged in the battery and i am getting no voltage to the transistor

is this layout verified???

[bryantbr]

Enough people on this board have stated that the keeley schematic is wrong for me to believe it.  I posted the picture of the board and if you compare the components that connect vs. the schematic it becomes obvious.  The schematic listed above is real close but I can't get everything to match up from it.  I'm confident with the people on this post alone the schematic will be cracked within day and Torchy will probably revise his layout.  I'd hold off on the build until then.

[bryantbr]

Keep in mind it's not Torchy's fault.  He's doing alot of layouts by request.  So someone probably requested it and he whipped it out using the schematic available.

Sorry to keep dropping you name Torchy.

[modmod]

Thx bryan for your post, something i can't see ,is that r3 go to Rb lung 1 to Re lung 1 ? there is also a wire from the bottom to the R3,where does that wire connect to ? thanks again  

[cd]

Enough people on this board have stated that the keeley schematic is wrong for me to believe it.  I posted the picture of the board and if you compare the components that connect vs. the schematic it becomes obvious.  The schematic listed above is real close but I can't get everything to match up from it.  I'm confident with the people on this post alone the schematic will be cracked within day and Torchy will probably revise his layout.  I'd hold off on the build until then.

Which part are you having trouble with?  Kusi's schem is correct, look at the other GGG one I posted above, it's simplified and also works.  There are some traces obscured by wires and the trimpots, but it's a Rangemaster, how hard can it be?  The input cap switching simply adds another cap in parallel (caps in parallel add together for more capacitance).  More capaciatance = less of a LPF effect.  The tone control is another LPF, same as in a guitar.

Don't worry about this/that schematic, go with what you know works (the booklet that RG has posted on geofex.com), then makes mods to that (you want negative ground? flip the power and ground rails and all the electrolytics).  Variable boost ranges?  Input cap switching.  Tone control?  Simple "in the guitar" style LPF.

[Torchy]

Layout redone with Kusi's schematic. Will be up tonight.

[Dragonfly]

why dont you just build a Rangemaster with a 100k trim in place of the 68k resistor, and tack a simple tone control (hi end rolloff) on the end... ?

if you use a dpdt switch for the input cap(s), you basically have a Java Boost...if you want to get fancy, you can reverse the electrolytics and the battery connections to make it negative ground, and then you are almost identical to a Java...

Andy
Dragonfly FX

[petemoore]

Bias a Ge...GEO Tech of Rangemaster covers that completely.
 The rest is just voicing  the circuit ...[?]

[bryantbr]

Everybody knows it's a Rangemaster.  I've built the RM from GGG but i wanted to build an exact copy with locking Alcoswitch and everything.  I could never get all the leads to match up in PCBExpress to match what's actually on the board.  Even with Kusi's schematic almost everything matches up except for C4 (negative) to R2.  Maybe it's something I'm doing wrong?

Look, I am a beginner.  I've got (4) builds under my belt and none of them were what most here would call difficult (RM,DOD250,BSIAB,OS).  Reading a schemtic, input cap switching, biasing transistors, etc. is becoming more clear to me thanks to people here.  This is just something that I wanted to copy 100%.  That means board (less smiley face), parts, etc.  

I really appreciate everyone's help and input.

[cd]

This is just something that I wanted to copy 100%.  That means board (less smiley face), parts, etc.

You don't need to copy it 100%.  Have some confidence in your own skills, you know it's a RM, you know it's re-wired for negative ground, so the 470k goes to ground, C4's positive is tied to the 9V supply (it's a filter cap) so its negative side has to go to ground.

[bwanasonic]

This is just something that I wanted to copy 100%.

Aah! The true spirit of DIY...  :shock:  :?  :roll:  

not


Kerry M

[dansamp]

thanks for updating the vero board layout !!!
R6's value is not listed (the one by the LED)
is it still 4k7 ??

[stm]

Bias a Ge...GEO Tech of Rangemaster covers that completely.
 The rest is just voicing  the circuit ...[?]

Which article is that? I searched //www.geofex.com but there was no "technology of the rangemaster".

[Doug_H]

Bias a Ge...GEO Tech of Rangemaster covers that completely.
 The rest is just voicing  the circuit ...[?]

Which article is that? I searched //www.geofex.com but there was no "technology of the rangemaster".

Look for the "austin treble blaster". That article's been there for years- an oldie but a goodie.  

Doug

[Fret Wire]

It's under "schematics and more", but this link should work.

http://www.geofex.com/Article_Folders/Rangemaster/drm.htm

[Torchy]

thanks for updating the vero board layout !!!
R6's value is not listed (the one by the LED)
is it still 4k7 ??

Sorry I'll change it - thats just the LED series resistor.

[dansamp]

thanks
i figured that out