Mounting perfboard

[new2diy]

Hi, I'm new to DIY, and I just ordered parts to build my first pedal (FuzzFace). Now, I know how to solder, and all that.. but I have no idea how to mount the pad-per-hole perfboard to the casing! :?:

I read the 'Tweak-O' project on SBE, and it mentions "studs" but I have no idea what that is. :roll:

[smashinator]

Well, the "good" way to do it is to use standoffs.  You can get plastic ones and epoxy them to the enclosure.  Metal standoffs are also available.  Perhaps you can epoxy those, but I bet there's a better way...  

Some of the folks here use velcro, or just leave them "flying."

There are LOTS of possibilities.  I've had luck with the plastic standoffs, but I haven't tried anything else yet.

[Del Pedro]

I use self-adhesive standoffs:

http://diy.musikding.de/berichte/eff/flipster/bilder/flipster_inside.jpg

[casey]

i use a machined screw - like a 8/32 or so, and use a piece of rubber tubing as my spacer and secure the board with lock nuts....

[aron]

The GEO FAQ at the top link addressed this a while back.

VELCRO  :shock:

[vanhansen]

The GEO FAQ at the top link addressed this a while back.

VELCRO  :shock:

Sure, why not velcro.  That's what I used to mount my Ruby amp circuit but I put one side of the velcro on the perf where there's no solder points. If I had put it in a more sturdy enclosure other than a tin, I would have used standoffs.

[petemoore]

I've had N/P's with this part.
 depends on how much room the board has for the mounting and how bigit is.
 I use the 'bolt through' method, with a Bic Pen's roll cut 1/2' section of plastic tubing...if the board has a flat section large enough for the tubing to 'seat'.
 I find the perf accepts the self threading metal screws that come from countless plastic enclosures [VCR's etc.], Using these and a piece of heavy theft prevention clear packaging plastic for shielding and mounting 'tray' [often times like on small resistor packages theres a lip for the lid or side of the package that I pin the sides of the board to with...1 screw threaded into the perf...drawback is another screwhead on the outside of the box. Very Kwik/works great, super EZ to access bottom of board...of course I have the 'wire' method I use for [Generally RACO's] laying out the box so the bottom of the board flips right up, no wires pinning it down. This is the method I use most often, because it is quick, I always save/have around some thick plastic sheet, the sheet keeps the screw in the box when the perf is loose, I can always find/get a screw like that...always goes real kwik and does what I want it to, and.. > :idea: Keeps the bottom of the board as close to the ground plane as is possible, but prevents any shorting to the enclosure. Sure Fire as any I've tried.  I leave a '9 dot square' in the middle of the board so I have room to use 1 screw and not have it touch wires...even pinning one end of the board does the trick for me...I try to use the lip method so the other end of the board away from the screw gets 'teetered/pinned down.
 Metal standoffs conduct.
 I also used plastic standoffs clipped/then flattened on both ends [so the board stays mostly flat], tightening the screw through box into tube very tight, then using another screw through the board into the other end of the tube...too much trouble, IMO not as good...works just fine tho.

[mojotron]

For the stuff I sell - I use the self adhesive plastic stand-offs. But, for my own stuff I usually have more wire on the inside anyway - so what I do is fold the PCB over the wires (so the wire is between the back of the pots and the PCB) and then hold it together with a cable tie. Either method works well, I like cable ties for my stuff because if I need to pull it apart it's really easy and cable ties are cheap...

[Apehouse]

Hey All!
Long time listener, first time caller here... (amazing forum!)
I haven't made tons of projects yet and if its for a friend i do it nice and clean with standoffs.  But, if its for me i use a silly little method where i epoxy down 3 round cord grommets(glued down in a triangler pattern). I vary the size according to the board size. But when i'm done i can snap the board down into the groove of all three (the groove that runs around the middle of the grommets, its the part that the enclosure occupies when you use the grommet the traditional/intended way). It snaps into all 3 grommets and the triangler pattern holds it nice and snug. When i want to work on it i can just pop it right out of its little "holder". The only down side is that i usually have to put down a thin piece of insulation in between to make sure there is no contact between the board and case. seems to work good.
so far so good, at least....
 -greg

[primalphunk]

Hey All!
Long time listener, first time caller here... (amazing forum!)
I haven't made tons of projects yet and if its for a friend i do it nice and clean with standoffs.  But, if its for me i use a silly little method where i epoxy down 3 round cord grommets(glued down in a triangler pattern). I vary the size according to the board size. But when i'm done i can snap the board down into the groove of all three (the groove that runs around the middle of the grommets, its the part that the enclosure occupies when you use the grommet the traditional/intended way). It snaps into all 3 grommets and the triangler pattern holds it nice and snug. When i want to work on it i can just pop it right out of its little "holder". The only down side is that i usually have to put down a thin piece of insulation in between to make sure there is no contact between the board and case. seems to work good.
so far so good, at least....
 -greg

Now this sounds very interesting to me...To date I have used mostly self adhesive plastic standoffs but have also tried velcro.

What kind of grommets are you using and where do you buy them?  I'd love to see pics for this method if you have the time to mess with it.   Cool idea...

peace,
James

[new2diy]

Thanks for the replies.. I thought about using a rubber plate. Making holes for the screws, and glueing the rubber down to the casing (with the screws on), then slide the board ontop. And tightening it.
Yes? no?

Also, two of the caps in the circuit are electrolytic, but I can't remeber how to identify the +/- side. I know how to on a standing cap, but not the resistor-type.
(The one on the right)

[petemoore]

Those 'capsule shaped outlines' shown in Pics, running down through the middle of the stripe [are the - signs] on the negative side of the caps...the other side is +

[JJR]

Those 'capsule shaped outlines' shown in Pics, running down through the middle of the stripe [are the - signs] on the negative side of the caps...the other side is +

'm sorry but that is confusing for me  :roll:

Is the upside +of - ?

Thank you  :wink:

[Samuel]

On that stripe there is an arrow shape, it is pointing to the (-) side. In this picture, thats the bottom.

[NaBo]

Velcro for tiny enclosures and small boards, plastic standoffs for everything else.

I just got a pack of 100 drywall anchors for very very cheap from a surplus store and figured they should work fine.

They look like this, but in pretty colours