My DS-1 Mods ... with sound clip.

theblackman · February 16, 2006, 01:11:12 AM

can i just say with leds and a larger cap value for this pedal, sounds really good for bass.

Melanhead · February 16, 2006, 01:49:44 PM

Quote from: b_rogers on February 16, 2006, 12:18:20 AM
ok i tried a 3.3k in the r16 and and i think it really helped the tone control. it seemed to extend the sweet spot out quite a bit where as before it only sounded really good in one spot (11oclock) now its about 11oclock to about 2oclock. way less hollow sounding. i also socketed the cap across the leds and tried about 10 values 10pf up to 1uf with no sound difference that i could hea FWIW.

Yup! ... there was a discussion about it and if you look at the schematic there's allready a large cap across the diodes so adding another small value doesn't do much ... not sure why it's still in the mod sheet

Melanhead · February 16, 2006, 02:04:13 PM

Quote from: vanhansen on February 15, 2006, 11:50:05 PM
Finished the mods tonight. R13 is 2.2k instead of 2.4k, R16 is 4.7k and R39 is 22k instead of 20k.

Now, aside from R13 controlling the amount of distortion, C10 and C12 affecting the tone control, what did all the other changes affect?

BTW, the pedal sounds great now. Even with a SD-1 pushing it a little extra it's INSANE!!! I love the sound of the clipping LED's.

Thanks, Bob.

I'll take a look at the schematic later as I'm not near it and get as detailed as my knowledge allows, but most of it is just adding a bit of bass in each stage by increasing the value of the coupling cap slightly. All electrolytic caps in the signal path were replaced with the same value metal film caps. Supposedly, although hard to prove via ear tests, electros are supposedly more muffled sounding. I believe most of the other metal film cap replacements we're of the same value but by using metal film caps and resistors in the signal path you decrease the noise/hiss quite a bit, especially in a high gain circuit like the DS-1 ....

oh and you're welcome ...

LoudGreg · February 16, 2006, 10:05:22 PM

Hi guy's,

I'd like to try this. Can someone please post the schematics of the DS-1 with a diagram (I paint by numbers). I used to have this someplace but can't seem to find it.

Most appreciated.

LoudGreg · February 16, 2006, 11:44:17 PM

http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=78

Found this at tonepad . com but it states "workalike" Boss DS1. Does anyone know if it is a different design or a clone of the DS1.

(knew I should have saved that stuff when I could have)

Eirik · February 17, 2006, 07:33:27 AM

*edit* dead link removed

LoudGreg · February 17, 2006, 09:44:25 AM

Thanks !!!

But I can't open this for some reason

? $:-\$

Can you sent it again ??

vanhansen · February 17, 2006, 09:46:53 AM

Quote from: LoudGreg on February 17, 2006, 09:44:25 AM
Thanks !!!

But I can't open this for some reason ? $:-\$

Can you sent it again ??

It's because the HTML file is looking at his C: drive for the file. We can't see his C: drive. All that stuff needs to be yanked and just the image name retained, the image file being in the same directory as the HTML file.

It says this:
<img style="width: 1643px; height: 2339px;" alt="" src="file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Eirik/Mine%20dokumenter/Skjemaer/Overdrive-Distortion/DS1PG2.jpg">

Make it this:
<img style="width: 1643px; height: 2339px;" alt="" src="DS1PG2.jpg">

Eirik · February 17, 2006, 10:31:51 AM

Sorry! I I totally new to uploading stuff. I thought I was getting hang of it.... I was so wrong!

However, you can find it here: http://www.godiksennet.com/default.asp?main=Schematics

vanhansen · February 17, 2006, 10:47:48 AM

No worries. You can try it again for the heck of it with the fix I posted. You have to use either relative paths or absolute paths as seen from the viewer of the HTML page. Relative paths are much easier because if you ever move sites and keep the same directory structure, everything works. Since this isn't an HTML class, I'll leave it at that. You'll get it.

Thanks for the link to the schematic BTW. I need to look it over and see what all the part changes I made did, with Bob's help I hope.

LoudGreg · February 17, 2006, 12:44:06 PM

Quote from: vanhansen on February 17, 2006, 10:47:48 AM
No worries. You can try it again for the heck of it with the fix I posted. You have to use either relative paths or absolute paths as seen from the viewer of the HTML page. Relative paths are much easier because if you ever move sites and keep the same directory structure, everything works. Since this isn't an HTML class, I'll leave it at that. You'll get it. WHOA !!! (now I'm getting dizzy )

Thanks for the link to the schematic BTW. I need to look it over and see what all the part changes I made did, with Bob's help I hope.

Quote

Yes, thanks as well. (I've got a bid on ones of these things and I'm going to give it a try)

Melanhead · February 17, 2006, 08:01:14 PM

Quote from: vanhansen on February 17, 2006, 10:47:48 AM

Thanks for the link to the schematic BTW. I need to look it over and see what all the part changes I made did, with Bob's help I hope.

Okay here goes ... I'll give you the info that I know: I'm an ear tweaker with limited knowledge, tweak 'till it sounds good

C1 - same value just a better quality metal film cap ( not sure how much better but what the hell ... )
C2 - upped from .47 to .68 to let a little more bass pass through ...
C3 - upped from .047 to .068 to let a little more bass pass through ...
C4 - not sure ... this is from the Keeley mod, beyond my electronics knowledge
C5 - same value just a better quality metal film cap
C7 - raised to cut some of the harsh top end of this opamp stage ( I think anyways ... )
C8 - raised in conjuction with lowering R13 to increase gain but maintain the same frequency response. If you lower the resistor you have to raise the cap ... ( anyone wanna verify this, I'm going from my TS knowledge and this looks to be similar. )
C9 - same value just a better quality metal film cap
C12 - effects the tone circuit but not sure how ...
C13 - upped from .047 to .1 to allow more bass to pass through ...
C14 - same value but change electrolytic to metal film for supposely less muffled sound ...
R16 - affects the mids, lowered for more ...
R39 - not sure but I'm assuming it let more signal flow through as it's a smaller resitance ( anyone ? )

Anyways ... that's about it, I may not be 100% correct but I won't be offended if someone was to correct me

I'm still learning

bluetubes · February 17, 2006, 10:47:53 PM

I've got to ask.....cause I think I'm losing my mind....

Where is R39?

? I can't find it anywhere!

vanhansen · February 17, 2006, 11:00:24 PM

Thanks, Bob. It's a start. I'm sure with all of our heads we can get the rest of it.

Thanks for taking the time to look at them.

R39 is right below R12 in mine. To the right of C5. It's not on the schematic/layout I have, which is from 1980. I need an updated one.

bluetubes · February 17, 2006, 11:33:11 PM

Thanks Vanhansen,

My board looks pretty much like this (there are some small differences but almost identical)...
http://www.godiksennet.com/images/sch/DS1PG2.jpg

Numbers on my board are:
ET-28F
ET5205-510B

There is no resistor located there on mine and no R39 listed in the picture above......is it possible that it was either an addition/omission on one of the versions?

Cheers,
BT

vanhansen · February 17, 2006, 11:39:15 PM

It's definitely an addition because I just bought mine on Monday brand new. If you don't see it there, then I wouldn't worry about it.

bluetubes · February 18, 2006, 12:57:37 AM

Thank you

gulliver · February 19, 2006, 06:10:59 PM

Quote from: Melanhead on February 17, 2006, 08:01:14 PM
Quote from: vanhansen on February 17, 2006, 10:47:48 AM

Thanks for the link to the schematic BTW. I need to look it over and see what all the part changes I made did, with Bob's help I hope.
Okay here goes ... I'll give you the info that I know: I'm an ear tweaker with limited knowledge, tweak 'till it sounds good

C1 - same value just a better quality metal film cap ( not sure how much better but what the hell ... )
C2 - upped from .47 to .68 to let a little more bass pass through ...
C3 - upped from .047 to .068 to let a little more bass pass through ...
C4 - not sure ... this is from the Keeley mod, beyond my electronics knowledge
C5 - same value just a better quality metal film cap
C7 - raised to cut some of the harsh top end of this opamp stage ( I think anyways ... )
C8 - raised in conjuction with lowering R13 to increase gain but maintain the same frequency response. If you lower the resistor you have to raise the cap ... ( anyone wanna verify this, I'm going from my TS knowledge and this looks to be similar. )
C9 - same value just a better quality metal film cap
C12 - effects the tone circuit but not sure how ...
C13 - upped from .047 to .1 to allow more bass to pass through ...
C14 - same value but change electrolytic to metal film for supposely less muffled sound ...
R16 - affects the mids, lowered for more ...
R39 - not sure but I'm assuming it let more signal flow through as it's a smaller resitance ( anyone ? )

Anyways ... that's about it, I may not be 100% correct but I won't be offended if someone was to correct me I'm still learning

All of this is very good for fine tuning, but are there any mods floating around that take the DS-1 in a different direction? Maybe a chip change? Maybe something that brings it into the TS-9 camp?

vanhansen · February 19, 2006, 11:09:12 PM

The DS-1 and TS-9 are pretty different from each other. You'd be much better off modding a SD-1 to get in to the TS category. The SD-1 and TS-9 are practically identical circuits. It's very easy to make one sound like the other.

gulliver · February 20, 2006, 09:46:55 AM

Quote from: vanhansen on February 19, 2006, 11:09:12 PM
The DS-1 and TS-9 are pretty different from each other. You'd be much better off modding a SD-1 to get in to the TS category. The SD-1 and TS-9 are practically identical circuits. It's very easy to make one sound like the other.

Perhaps my example was a poor choice. When playing my modded DS-1 next to a stock one, the improvements are appreciated, but it's not radically different from stock ... just way better. I'd like to try a good mod that is none of the above, where it brings me is not as important. Maybe a fuzz? Does anyone have anything?

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My DS-1 Mods ... with sound clip.