copper clad board ?

[neon333]

I'm trying to source a supplier for copper clad board, via google, and the process has raised a few questions.

1.  Single sided or double sided?

2.  I'm not sure what pre-sensitized boards are?
http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/1635

3.  What is a good thickness?

4.  A good way to store a blank board so it won't oxidize?  

5.  Is tinning an etched board worth the extra time, effort, and money.

Thanks,
Joe

[markr04]

1. Single-sided for our applications.

2. Pre-sensitized boards have a light-sensitive coating. Unless you're going to go with the photo method of etching, you don't want them. In fact, you need to decide how you plan to etch before buying any boards.

3. I dunno on this one. I don't know how thick mine are either. I buy unmarked, generic 3"x5" for $.99 each at my local supplier.

4. They should come in a plastic package. You could store the unused portion of a board in a ziplock baggie I guess.

5. I dunno on this either. I can't seem to find any tinner in my city anyway. I seem to recall that it's illegal in some states or something... or maybe it was Canada... heck, I dunno - I read that in a post a year ago. I'm guessing tinning would be good for solder adhesion and protecting against oxidation. I've not had problems with solder adhesion so far, and I use conformal coating to protect against oxidation.

Try using the search function up top for more answers.

[markr04]

I Yahoo'd for liquid tin, tinnit, etc. It's available and I didn't see any notes about "cannot ship to...". So nevermind about it being illegal.

[neon333]

1. Single-sided for our applications.

2. Pre-sensitized boards have a light-sensitive coating. Unless you're going to go with the photo method of etching, you don't want them. In fact, you need to decide how you plan to etch before buying any boards.

3. I dunno on this one. I don't know how thick mine are either. I buy unmarked, generic 3"x5" for $.99 each at my local supplier.

4. They should come in a plastic package. You could store the unused portion of a board in a ziplock baggie I guess.

5. I dunno on this either. I can't seem to find any tinner in my city anyway. I seem to recall that it's illegal in some states or something... or maybe it was Canada... heck, I dunno - I read that in a post a year ago. I'm guessing tinning would be good for solder adhesion and protecting against oxidation. I've not had problems with solder adhesion so far, and I use conformal coating to protect against oxidation.

Try using the search function up top for more answers.

1. Thanks  

2. PNP Blue is the way I'm gonna go.

3. I figured it might save me some money to get a larger board and store it properly.  There are several circuits I want to build.

4. Still wondering about tinning.  Does this prolong the life/durabilty of a board.  I suspect it does, but would like to see feedback from the cognescenti(sp).

Did the Wiki, GEO faq, and DIY faq before I posted.  I didn't see much on these specific questions.  I may have missed them too, but I did search.
Well, your sig says it all

[markr04]

Heh... nevermind my signature. I should change that... and will.

For PnP Blue then, you need non-sensitized.

I found this info on tinning somewhere (Sorry, I closed the window too soon):

"I doubt the benefits of tinning (or even silver plating) pcb tracks is inproved conductance; the copper itself should do that adequately. If not then, a little bit more metal, even silver won't help much.

The real benefit of tinning or even silver plating is ease of soldering which in turn means better solder joints. At least in my experience, plated pcb tracks and pads are much, much easier to solder than bare copper and good solder joints increase the chances that the project will be a success.."

[sir_modulus]

If you're like me and leave some parts of your build for a really long time, tinning is nice, as the copper oxidizes and makes it hard to solder by the time I come back to the board. MG Chemicals liquid tin is the best tinning agent, as it's the safest. Tinning is mainly done for asthetic reasons, and to imporve the longevity of the boards (better contact, more professional finish, doesn't look like crap after a while, makes resoldering/ontrace mods easier).

Cheers,

Nish

[neon333]

If you're like me and leave some parts of your build for a really long time, tinning is nice, as the copper oxidizes and makes it hard to solder by the time I come back to the board. MG Chemicals liquid tin is the best tinning agent, as it's the safest. Tinning is mainly done for asthetic reasons, and to imporve the longevity of the boards (better contact, more professional finish, doesn't look like crap after a while, makes resoldering/ontrace mods easier).

Cheers,

Nish

Found the MG site.  

Thanks.

[neon333]

Cool! I've lifted my share of pads on my early attempts at mods.  I'm gonna tin my boards.

Heh... nevermind my signature. I should change that... and will.

For PnP Blue then, you need non-sensitized.

I found this info on tinning somewhere (Sorry, I closed the window too soon):

"I doubt the benefits of tinning (or even silver plating) pcb tracks is inproved conductance; the copper itself should do that adequately. If not then, a little bit more metal, even silver won't help much.

The real benefit of tinning or even silver plating is ease of soldering which in turn means better solder joints. At least in my experience, plated pcb tracks and pads are much, much easier to solder than bare copper and good solder joints increase the chances that the project will be a success.."