which overdrive pedal for me ?....., build journal

[waix]

hello everybody
i want to build an overdrive pedal as my first build
i've got some basic soldering skills and can read simple schematics
which overdrive works well with single coils and humbuckers, got a bluesy drive to rock crunch and can push my amp too ?

i was thinking of easy drive, ROG grace, peppermill, tube reamer
so which one out of these 4 ?  

[MartyMart]

As a good "all rounder" I would have to say "Easy Drive"
For a bit more "Rock Distortion" then the ROG Grace or Big Daddy
For more subtle "Blues" use, then ROG TubeReamer/Peppermill

So I think the Easy drive suits your needs best

Marty.

[waix]

k i'll go build the easy drive
and when i'm done with that i'm gonna build the other ones :mrgreen:  :mrgreen:

are there sockets for diodes so i could change them to experiment ?

[Fumi SG]

I'm going to build a MXR Distortion+ and I have changed the schematic just a little bit. I've put an extra pair of diodes in my schematic, and I can switch them by using a DPDT-switch.... maybe an idea for you too??

[waix]

that would be a nice idea but i'd still like a way to quickly changes the diodes to see what works best

en succes met bouwen he fumi  :wink:

[petemoore]

Absolutely, if you're going to build it, you might as well make it moddable to your guitar and amp !!! Get some sockets from Small Bear, they're nice ones you can cut off as many pins as needed per socket, or just use 6-8 [whatever] pin IC Sockets.
 To better say 'what's what', know the 'first whats' [your amp and stuff] 'is' may be of some help.

[Transmogrifox]

...are there sockets for diodes so i could change them to experiment ?

You can certainly put something in for the diodes if you'd like to experiment.  It was hard for me to find something specifically for diodes, but if you can find the sockets for a DIP that have the "post" type contact in each place, then you can cut these metal pieces out one by one and solder them individually to the diode pads on the board.

Another thing you may try is to get a very small screw, nut, and 2 washers--something small enough that it doesn't overlap other traces on the board.  Put the screw through the board with the two washers on the component side and the nut on the solder pad side.  Now you can clamp your diode leads in between the washers just by tightening the screw.

[Fumi SG]

that would be a nice idea but i'd still like a way to quickly changes the diodes to see what works best

en succes met bouwen he fumi  :wink:

danku! Jij ook! :wink:

[petemoore]

Some sockets are flimsyer than others, for the flimsy ones, I like to have at least three pins in a row for 'stability'.
 The 'post type socket holes are too small to accept larger lead sizes easily.

[waix]

thanks everyone for all your help
i've found a supplier for all my needs
so which diodes to get to experiment?
and if i get a switch to bypass the diode section does that give me a clean boost ?

[andrewretard]

If i were u id get some LEDs, Silicon (914s and 4001s), Germanium (1n34as). And its probably not a clean boost when bypassed, id hav to guess its a transparent od though

[Fumi SG]

Waix, I have a rather different question but are you going to build your own box to put al the things in?? Or are you buying one?? That's about the only thing that bothers me with my project..... I've thought about a little storagebox (you know, the tiny boxes with several compartments for little things like cap's), will this work in terms of shielding it from other signals??

(srry for going offtopic! :oops: )

[waix]

na i'm buying a box, i can't really be bothered doing it myself because it's only 5 euros and i have zero metal working skills.

don't know if those storage boxes will shield though

[Fumi SG]

aaah... where did you buy it?!?!  I'm having difficulties finding one. :?

[petemoore]

I used RACO junction boxes and 'converted' them into 'nice' [more nice functionally than aesthetically, with Some Work thay can look great too].  
 They are super cheep and available and work. You have to JB weld the punchouts first for best results, otherwise you'll have punched out punchout holes where you try to drill.
 Dirt cheep, super sturdy, not a bad size/shape, shielded.
 I like the little bit of extra weight, it helps them stay put on the floor good.

[Fumi SG]

that's a nice idea, but in Holland they're generally made out of plastic. I'm wondering if that shields nice! :roll:

[waix]

http://www.banzaieffects.com/europe/partshop.htm

shipping is rather high though so if you only need one box you'd better try another supplier

[Fumi SG]

I saw him (banzaieffects) already, and if I ordered everything there it was rather cheap. But my dad doesn't like international orders, and since he has the credit card... :roll:

I'll go and check out some stores here, and I'll take something else instead of a 'real box'. Will ANY metal material shield well?? And if I buy a box, a storagebox for example, and I notice that it doesn't shield well, is it possible that I shield it properly with copperfoil or anything like that??

[petemoore]

Shielding can be added to plastic boxes. I'm sure searches or links tell the story, I use metal boxes so...
 Testing the shielding is as easy as testing the continuity between ground and the shell.

[waix]

@fumi they're available at conrad.nl too i think

edit:

here


banzai hasn't got 1n34as which diode can serve as replacement?