Korg DT-10 Pedal Tuner (LED & true bypass) Mods?

[SonicVI]

No you couldn't do that because the switching is electronic, not mechanical. Each time the switch closes it turns the pedal on and off alternately, it's not a one way is on one way is off thing like the bypass footswitch. That's why it has to be normally open momentary also. If you never disconnected the pedal from the power supply and never unplugged the power supply and never took the cable out of the input jack then the jumper could work. But that's not gonna happen and every time you remove power it resets itself to being off.     I think an SPDT would work ok, but you'll have to make sure you wire it so that the two wires are not connected until you throw the switch. So the pole has a wire connected to it and then only one of the throws has the other wire connected and it has to be the side that connects to the pole when the switch it thrown, so that the two wires connect just momentarily but return to not being connected after you release the switch.       I looked at Radio Shacks website and they have a couple of SPST momentary pushbutton switches that would work fine.   

[formerMember1]

thanks, that makes sense now,

I got the 3mmLED's with the ridge to probably work,(didn't try it yet but i don't see why it wouldn't) i simply clipped the ridge off with nail clippers, no damage either, then i just sanded it smooth with 600grit sandpaper

i got one other question 

radio shack has a few SPST momentary pushbutton switches that should work fine.

Does it matter how many amps it is rated at?  Some are rated at 1.5amps and some are rated at 0.5amps.

thanks again for all the help with this pedal, i couldn't have done it with out ya, and you saved me a lot of headaches and made things more easier in the future for me.(no looper box!!)

I wish i could return the favor, maybe someday...

[SonicVI]

No, doesn't matter in pedal. You're dealing with milliamps. The higher rated ones are usually bigger though.

[formerMember1]

I understand the wiring from the 3PDT to jacks,

BUT, I am confused about the wiring to the board, (3PDT to board and the board to jacks.)

THe pad that originally had the sleeve of the pc mounted jacks connected to it, are we still connecting the sleeve of the off board jacks to that pad?

Becuase in your drawing, the top pad of the board originally had the sleeve connected to it, now we are connecting the pad to the 3PDT top left lug, not the sleeve of the "new" jack.

ANd in your drawing, the lower pad originally had the ring connected to it, now we are connecting the sleeve to it.

DId you make a mistake in the drawing? Or am i thinking too hard?

thanks


***EDIT***
what do i do with the pads in the pc board where the bypass jack we removed used to go?(the jack we removed so that we could use the hole to mount the SPST)

[SonicVI]

Yes, the sleeve connections just go straight to the board, they're the ground connections for the jacks.   I didn't make the drawing exactly as it looks on the board, just to show what goes where, you need to figure out which pad is which on the board.   You don't need to do anything with the enpty pads from the bypass jack, just leave them empty.

[SonicVI]

Looking at the pedal again it looks like I did actually end up using jacks from the pedal for both jacks, not a different one like I said before.  You have to turn them counter-clockwise or they won't fit heightwise under the bottom lip where the black screws go. I had to bend the tabs on the input jack so they would fit without touching the side of the case and them put silicon goo all over them to prevernt shorting to the case. The jack and the wires are all kinda smashed up flat against the side but it fit and I haven't had any shorts.

[formerMember1]

I didn't make the drawing exactly as it looks on the board, just to show what goes where, you need to figure out which pad is which on the board.

cool that cleared it up i understand it now. That is why i got confused because i figured out which pad was which, and it didn't match up with the drawing as i looked at it. 

thanks again for the help

PS:i got the switchcraft jacks to work, but if i buy another KORG tuner to have as a backup, i am glad i could just use the jacks it came with. 

[formerMember1]

hey sonicVI:

I wiried everything up, put the pedal back together and tested it. .

The very  outside 2 LEDS  on each side of display stay on.  I then step on the footswitch to tune and it goes to the tuning mode, and the tuner green led and whatever shows me i am tuning, it responds to the guitar note like normally, BUT, those outside 2 LEDS on each side stay lit, and actaully move with the middle LEDs showing my tuning.

I did change the outer LED on each side to a yellow one, so that might be the problem.  The yellow LEDs are way brighter than the other red and green LEDS.

****EDIT***

Yup, the yellow LEDs were the problem,  I unsoldered all my wires and removed the boards, changed it back to the RED ones, and soldered her back up, everything works! 

thanks SONICVI!! 

one question though,

If i have the pedal plugged in, it has power etc... i hit the SPST to give it power, then step on the footswitch to tune, ok fine, now i am done tuning, but when i step on the 3PDT to bypass it, it bypasses, but the LEDS stay lit, they don't move or nothing, 

it seems when the pedal is bypassed it shows a letter B and stays lit with a few LEDs, even though it is bypassed.

does yours show any LEDs lit when it is bypassed by using the 3PDT? Or is it completely dark when bypassed.

thanks again 

***EDIT***

i also noticed that if i plug my strat into RM into korg tuner into amp, and i have the korg tuner bypassed it stays on the letter B and a few LEDs light like i previously mentioned, but, if i put my RM on and have the tuner bypassed, i could actually tune even though it is bypassed, and you could obvioulsy hear the note too, as if you used the bypass jack(we removed that) to hear yourself tune, then when i hit the tuner, it mutes the signal and lets me tune like normal.

I guess the RM is raising the signal or something.   

[SonicVI]

Yeah, that's what mine does too, it shows a B with the a couple of the LED's lit.  I don't know of any way to get around that.  I tried using the third switch on the 3PDT to see if it would break the connection between the pole and the two throws enough to turn the tuner on and off every time I stepped on it but it didn't work.  Anyway, I doubt it's hurting anything having it on all the time. Maybe it's showing a flat B becasue there's some noise at 60Hz getting in there from the power supply or something and 60Hz is just flat of a B?  Let's see 440 is an A, so 220, 110,  55 are all A's, so yeah, maybe 60Hz is a flat B.  That's my guess anyway.  ;D               If it's actually true bypassed then there shouldn't be any signal getting to the tuning circuitry no matter how hot the signal is. I haven't experienced this, but then I always put my tuner first in line so there's never anything before it.   Do you notice any difference now btw? Did you notice any tone sucking before that you don't have now?

D.

[formerMember1]

yeah before i did this mod, the other pedals in my chain, Rangemaster, Fuzzface, sounded horrible because of the tuner.  But now, i could put a rangemaster or anything in their and my sound doesn't suffer.

One thing i did notice is that the, B flat shows up when i don't have any other pedal on before the tuner, but when i put a fuzzface, or RM on instead of a B flat showing, it bounces around showing different picthes and the LED's flash,(mostly whatever note i hit) i don't really mind this, but the part that i wonder about is why is it doing this? I think it has something to do with the SPST switch, couldn't we wire those two wires to the 3PDT instead of the SPST switch, because when you hit the SPST, the b flat is gone, (actually like we already know, there would be no power)

BUt what happened if we wired the wires to the 3PDT instead of the SPST, or wired them to the SPST and then ran wires from the SPST to the 3PDT And used the 3PDT to turn the power on and off.  we would probably get popping or something.

Becuase i remember one tmie i wired my RM up wrong and instead of the input jack turing the power on and off, the 3PDT turned the power on and off, i changed it with help from ARON, because i wanted the normal way of turning power on. It took too long for the effect to come on when it was the other way.

i am sure there is something that could be done,

one other thing i want to add is:
I remember when i used my true bypass box to bypass the tuner the same thing happened with the B flat,
I would leave the tuner on  all the time, and just use my looper box to send the signal to the tuner and step on the looper box to bypass it.
Also, if i had a RM on and the tuner was bypassed via the looper box, but it was still on, it would jump around and display different pitches, the same way it does now,

Now that i think about i think what we did was build a looper box right inside of the tuner 

Where's R.G. Keen when you need him 

I tried A/B ing the tuner and i think i still hear a small drop in treble, but maybe not, it sometimes seems like there is and sometimes there is no loss,
I even recorded it and couldn't tell by much, but i think there might be still a little bit of treble loss.

BUt it is way better than before and the mod was definitely worth it!! 

[SonicVI]

That's right, the same principle as building a bypass box inside.  I tested my bypass with my multimeter and I get a beep in continuity mode when the pedal is bypassed so if it's not true bypass then the resistance is extremely low. So it is truly byassed and nothing should get into the tuner.   Maybe you have something not quite right?   I'm not sure why you would be getting any signal in there any other way, maybe RG or Mark would have a guess, but I guess they aren't watching this thread.     Like I said I tried using the extra pole of the 3PDT instead of the SPST but it didn't work unless I just didn't do it right.  I guess the 3PDT doesn't allow the pole and throws to disconnect long enough to switch the pedal on and off electronically.  I suppose you could use a Carling SPST momentary footswitch that Small Bear sells and mount it to the case right next to the 3PDT and step on both of them at the same time but that might be more trouble that it's worth.  You'd need to remove the battery box to make it fit.