Aron's 3PDT Wiring vs Phillip's 3PDT Wiring?

[formerMember1]

yeah aron i am sorry, i changed the wiring back to your way and it doesn't cause popping,  I can't figure out what stopped it.  It used to always make the fuzzface pop, but now i can't get it to pop.  I musta had something wrong with the RM and "accidentally"fixed it by changing the wires or something.  I guess cuz my inexperience.
Now, I am trying to get it to pop  but no luck.  If i get it to pop i will reply, until then i am going to stop talking.   :oops:

hope someone finds a verdict :wink:

[Gilles C]

I also noticed that with a switchbox I built and where I used the outer lugs for the signals and the center ones for the power, it was popping.

But the center lugs were also sending power to a LED, so I though that it was some induced switching current that was causing that.

I wanted to use the first 2 sets of lugs for the signal and the last outer set for the power in my next switchbox. But I never completed it so I can't compare both kinds of connexions, and I can't tell for sure if it would make a difference.

Maybe someday I'll finish it...

Gilles

[formerMember1]

giles C.

you just reminded me.  I removed the LED a couple days ago, until i get the ultra bright LED's(my battery is going down quick),  i will have to put the LED back and see if that caused the popping, since it would increase the chance of leakage of the power to other lugs.  I'll put the LED back when i get time,  
i'll post if there is a pop, if not i won't post.

:wink:

[vanhansen]

FWIW, I've been wiring my 3PDT's like Aron, using the middle lugs for the LED and its power, and haven't experienced any popping at all.  Maybe I'm just lucky, maybe it's the short wire runs, maybe it's how I'm connecting things, but I don't have any popping issues on anything I've built.

[Doug_H]

Many yrs ago I had a long nagging problem with oscillation with a high-gain pedal I built. Turns out it was due to crosstalk through the carling 316 dpdt's I was using at the time. When I moved to the 3pdt and kept the input/output on the outer lugs, the problem was solved. At the time I figured the bonus of running the LED dc through the center lugs might help shield the in and out from ea other further. It never occured to me that LED switching transients might bleed through to the signal contacts and cause "pop" problems.

I suppose with these stompswitches there will always be a potential for internal crosstalk. And although moving the LED switching to the "outside" contacts may minimize the probability of "popping" due to crosstalk, with a high-gain circuit it may increase the probability of oscillation problems for the same reason.

FWIW I don't have popping problems with any of my pedals anyway, so this is all kind of alien to me.

Doug

[aron]

Until the "crosstalk" is measurable (which it hasn't been for me at all), I have to assume that the problem lies elsewhere. This is all very strange and makes me want to go searching through the archives for R.G.'s posts on why circuits might pop.

[formerMember1]

hey aron, FWIW   i added the LED back to circuit and still can't get it to pop in the pedals after the RM.   I am happy it doesnt though. :lol:   It is not like i want it to pop.  You should PM R.G.  He is the MAN.

good luck dude

[Gilles C]

Interesting results, and still no clear answer...

As Doug mentioned, I also wanted to separate the input from the output when I used the center lugs for the power.

I also remember that I started to use transistors to switch LEDs after that to minimise popups.

Some more experimenting should be done to get more consistent results.

Gilles