Pictures!

[elfito]

That is a rad look, good sir. If you get any hum make sure you pull the opamp out of its socket and blow on it.

hahahahaha
it bring memories of me fighting a megaman 2 cartridge for half a hour and end up playing all glitched.
and i still play my original nes from 1988

[phector2004]

[Beros]

Can't remember if i've posted this one, but here it is anyway. A Clyde McCoy-ish wah witch NOS russioan PIO-caps (lots of mojo) in an old vox wah enclosure (lots of mojo again). ICAR pot, Red Fasel, and trimpots for this and that. I made it some time ago, but i didn't get it to work properly. It has been buried under loads of rubbish, but i found it and finished it today.

[Magnus]

Hello,
@Beros:

witch NOS russioan PIO-caps

You should use those for the 666-Pedal-Contest, since they're bewitched  

btw: Nice Mojo-Wah - cool!!!


Greetings
Magnus

[knealebrown]

yeah thats a cool wah man, id love to hear some sound clips  great job btw

[tubelectron]

Hi Beros,

As I am reworking some wah projects, here is a good occasion for me to ask you some informations about what you've done here - if these infos are available, indeed :

1 - the Q's seems to like BC107/8/9 - exact type ? Have you measured the Hfe of Q1 and Q2 ?
2 - the inductor looks like a Fasel (or may be a copy ? You find a similar one in look in the today's standard GCB-95), have you measured the self-inductance (mH) and DC resistance (Ohms) ?
3 - have you added a serial and/or a parallel R to modify its Q factor ?
4 - is it a wide-band wah (suitable for... everything) or a narrow one (talking wah) ?
5 - is it a sharp one ? - I mean the treble kills ans the bass is moderate (acceptable in lead), or is it a smooth one, with nice bass, smooth high and smooth transistion (acceptable in rhythm and... everywhere if you want to save your ears)

For example, it is clear that the today's GCB-95 is a great seller, but I personnally feel that it gives a too much agressive, piercing tone. Moreover, there's nothing very different with the 1996 or 97 version I have. I had also a JH-1, but it was a too narrow band wah to be OK in rhythm wah sounds. In comparison, my 70's Colorsound Wah Wah is neatly more multi-purpose, so is my 70's Shaftesbury HA-9P.

Here's a pic showing the inductor of a 2010 GCB-95 :



And for the fun, my Colorsound Swell Pedal DIYed in wah pedal - works nicely to my taste, but the coil is too much vibration sensitive-noisy that I will have to do something on it or sadly replace it. Its brand is "Adjustoroïd Barnell & Co", and it is a 600mH / 70 Ohms inductor :





Thanks in advance for your technical help, Beros
A+!



I am searching - so that's the reason of my precise questions !

A+!

[igerup]

Falcon beer, eh? How Swedish of you. 

Here's my new project, an Orange Squeezer.
On a nice little board (courtesy of Electrokit.se)



I chose a board this time because of the 4558. Would be nice to be able to replace it if necessary.

[Beros]

yeah thats a cool wah man, id love to hear some sound clips   great job btw

Here's a litte Lizzy-ish for you. Gibson SG Jr with minihumbucker (and somewhat old strings), Wah, Super Hardon for the heavy part of the solo, and 18W mini-plexi.
The rhythm guitar is guitar straight to amp.

http://www.speedyshare.com/files/23265988/mojowah.mp3

Recorded with my home made isobox, 2 SM57 to preamps and Cubase.

Hi Beros,

As I am reworking some wah projects, here is a good occasion for me to ask you some informations about what you've done here - if these infos are available, indeed :

1 - the Q's seems to like BC107/8/9 - exact type ? Have you measured the Hfe of Q1 and Q2 ?
2 - the inductor looks like a Fasel (or may be a copy ? You find a similar one in look in the today's standard GCB-95), have you measured the self-inductance (mH) and DC resistance (Ohms) ?
3 - have you added a serial and/or a parallel R to modify its Q factor ?
4 - is it a wide-band wah (suitable for... everything) or a narrow one (talking wah) ?
5 - is it a sharp one ? - I mean the treble kills ans the bass is moderate (acceptable in lead), or is it a smooth one, with nice bass, smooth high and smooth transistion (acceptable in rhythm and... everywhere if you want to save your ears)

For example, it is clear that the today's GCB-95 is a great seller, but I personnally feel that it gives a too much agressive, piercing tone. Moreover, there's nothing very different with the 1996 or 97 version I have. I had also a JH-1, but it was a too narrow band wah to be OK in rhythm wah sounds. In comparison, my 70's Colorsound Wah Wah is neatly more multi-purpose, so is my 70's Shaftesbury HA-9P.

1 - BC109B, not measured. Just soldered them in.
2 - It's a new Dunlop Fasel. The reissue. Haven't mesured it. Just soldered it in.
3 - I have added a trimpot to modify its Q. It's the upper one. The other trimpot adjusts bas and maybe gain too. Dont know really, but it sounds like it.
4 - I could tweak it to sound pretty much how I want it to sound.
5 - I rolled the wah-pot until the treble didnt kill my ears. Works for now, but I've realized that I usually like a bit more treble whenever I play live. Guess I'll be rolling the pot towards the treblier range later on.

Over all it's a pretty sweet sounding wah. Not icepicky nor too bassy. I have a 1979 Jen wah (with a real red fasel) and this one sounds close, just a tad less treble. A bit softer and sweeter.
I really dont like measuring and matching. I prefer playing. If it sounds good when it's done then I'm happy. If not, I tweak it. Or throw it away.


And yes, I drink Falcon Folköl. It's the best folköl in Sweden. I buy it at the bensinmack, where it's way too expensive, but they're the only ones who are open when i build pedals late at night.

[Processaurus]

my Tim Escobedo T.M.K

with a RAD look 

Oh dang. 

I got a bunch of the old NES power and reset button assemblies from All Electronics, haven't managed to stick them in anything yet.  Was thinking an amp built into the console would be pretty cool, with all the knobs in the cartridge hatch?

[elfito]

just finished my DOD 250 in a hand painted zebra theme enclosure

[auden100]

Finished up my first pedal: OmniDrive with various minor mods. Lots of fun to twiddle with all the knobs. Pretty ridiculous guts. Just too many knobs. Couldn't handle it. If anyone's interested, I posted a build report here: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=85585.0

[deadastronaut]

nice man..love the little switch on/off plate ,would look good on a retro style too.. ..

[bean]

That is hot!

[Galego]

Quite ambitious for a first build. Looks very cool.

[John Lyons]

Scarab Deluxe
Variable input capacitor, fat to thin tones and "feel"
Panel mounted Bias knob to adjust collector voltage
to taste. Slight gating at 25% up on Bias..
Etched copper faceplate
Basically a Hot-rodded silicon Tonebender MKII

[mattthegamer463]

Scarab Deluxe
Variable input capacitor, fat to thin tones and "feel"
Panel mounted Bias knob to adjust collector voltage
to taste. Slight gating at 25% up on Bias..
Etched copper faceplate
Basically a Hot-rodded silicon Tonebender MKII

Thats a great looking faceplate, have you ever tried illuminating the lettering with LEDs or something? I bet it would look amazing.  I would love to see illuminated lettering for readability on stage.

[deadastronaut]

Scarab Deluxe
Variable input capacitor, fat to thin tones and "feel"
Panel mounted Bias knob to adjust collector voltage
to taste. Slight gating at 25% up on Bias..
Etched copper faceplate
Basically a Hot-rodded silicon Tonebender MKII

Thats a great looking faceplate, have you ever tried illuminating the lettering with LEDs or something? I bet it would look amazing.  I would love to see illuminated lettering for readability on stage.

very nice john..brilliant..
...
i agree with matt..an led under there would be an excellent idea....the copper would cover the top of the led too...

and be the on/off led...very cool...

[John Lyons]

I've thought about it but the circuit board is opaque.
You could illuminate it with several LEDs I guess but the
spread of light though the plate would be very small
and I'd have to drill out most of the area around the lettering
which would make it very flimsy.

[Brymus]

How about a sheet of plexi under the copper clad?
That would diffuse the light more evenly,I might try this...

Nice looking build John.
I like the copper face plate,but doesnt it scratch just by touching it,kinda like Pine.
Is the extra Q, an input buffer ?
An input buffer made my BMP so much better I was gonna add one to my take on the TB MKII Pro Si.

[John Lyons]

The Copper clad still is very opaque so I don't know well how it would work.
I'm not too into that look anyway. Plus the plexi would make the top
even thicker and also light around the edge a lot more than it would the
lettering so that would be distracting...

The 3rd transistor is a buffer between the circuit and the tone control.