Pictures!

[Skruffyhound]

Love your work Nikolay, the gut shot made me laugh though, that giant toroidal steals the show a bit 
Are you still getting your cases from local companies?

[Nikolay]

thanks, guys.
I change the company for the boxes. Right now I make 3d sketch for the box with all holes and bends using solid works and send the file. After 10 days I get the box. Than painting in another company

[tasos]

hey guys...i saw this capacitor rated with j... j stands for joule right?and how can we convert joule to fahhrad?

[Galego]

hey guys...i saw this capacitor rated with j... j stands for joule right?and how can we convert joule to fahhrad?

I think that's the tolerance of the capacitor J: +-5% M: +-20%

[John Lyons]

It does not stand for Joule, just as "M" on the cap above does not stand for Micro farad.
I believe it's the cap "composition" although they are both ceramic...

EDIT...Oh yeah, it's the Tollerance, that's right.

[Slade]

Fabulous work, Nikolay! Awesome.

[elenore19]

What I did all day.

I decided to go with a fuzz factory clone in this pedal. I love the way it looks.

My cleanest build yet. I'd say it couldn't get much cleaner for me. Pretty damn proud to say the least (nothing compared to all you guys...john/slade/nickolay...pedal gods...)


No LED yet. I plan on trying the plexiglass border for this guy when I get the time to work it out. But no light for now.

[Manny]

Looks good Elliot 
It's good to see that you managed to keep most of that nice paintwork exposed!

[Yorick]

That looks awesome!!!

[deadastronaut]

nice elliot...use a 2mm led for the eye!...

[Slade]

Or drill a 1mm hole in the eye and put a 3mm led from inside. That looks really nice

[deadastronaut]

Or drill a 1mm hole in the eye and put a 3mm led from inside. That looks really nice

yeah looks good..ive seen that on a few of yours......how do you attach the led to the top though?....

[Barcode80]

Or drill a 1mm hole in the eye and put a 3mm led from inside. That looks really nice

yeah looks good..ive seen that on a few of yours......how do you attach the led to the top though?....

I do it two ways. If I want the LED right next to the switch (I usually do), I simply solder the - leg of the LED to the switch and bend it so that pressure holds the LED in the hole.

Otherwise, a quick dot of super glue does the trick. Just put the LED in, then while holding it in put a dot of glue where it meets the enlcosure. Hold until it sets, usually a few seconds.

[bean]

Echo Base w/ PTAP!

[Taylor]

Nice! Is the PTAP available again or did you have a NOS one?  I was disappointed to see Robert close down his shop (or I thought he did anyway....)

[Valoosj]

Very nice pedal Brian. Just one question: how do you select the quarter/eight/dotted eight/... ?


Ok, a second one: is the PTAP accurate?

[bean]

Very nice pedal Brian. Just one question: how do you select the quarter/eight/dotted eight/... ?


Ok, a second one: is the PTAP accurate?

You select it with the position of the Time knob. I put the graphic on the switch so I would remember what's what

I'd say it's accurate enough for my purposes. I have not found any flaws in switching between the different subdivisions. Actually, I found a cool hack by placing a resistor across the Time pot. Depending on which lugs you put it on, you get an instant subdivision up or down. I didn't implement that in this build....two foot switched are enough.

Anyway, I've had the PTAP sitting around for a year....AFAIK they are not available anymore.

[Govmnt_Lacky]

Echo Base w/ PTAP!

Sweet pedal bean. How do you fab your faceplates? Is it etched aluminum?

[John Lyons]

Looks like copper in a cool lighting. Not that the lighting is neat/cool.
But more blue than orange. 
Nice looking box there Brian.

[Barcode80]

Yeah I'm guessing either the lighting is makin it look silver but it's copper, or he tinned the copper and popped it in an oven (been meaning to try this), then sanded. THat's supposed to be a decent "silver" plating with solder.