Pictures!

[BarnyardBill]

Here is a fuzz pedal with an interesting layout I just finished.  A triangle of torched copper.  I really like the raw aluminum look.   Let me know what you think. 

And here is some pics of the completed build.   


another angle



another angle


another angle


thanks everyone!

-Bill

[John Lyons]

[bean]

That is perfection, John!

[stezza]

Very impressive John, where did you get the enclosure?

[Barcode80]

http://www.pedalenclosures.com

[Slade]

Very nice, John, I like those candy knobs and melted chocolate cables... Oh, I'm so hungry, gotta find some wire here...

[slacker]

A happy marriage of SMD and vero.

[phector2004]

Cool! Spin FV-1?

And what's that funky blue IC socket?

[azrael]

Yep, I use decals...or at least on that one. 

Really? But...the super deep pitting....How do you prevent any air bubbles, and make the wording so clean? I are confuzed.


Also, where do you get your shielded cable? It looks much more flexible seems easier to work with than the stuff I use, which is from Small Bear.

[slacker]

Cool! Spin FV-1?

Yeah it's an FV-1, just got to learn how to program it now.

And what's that funky blue IC socket?

It's an old wire-wrap socket, I got a load of them cheap from a surplus place. Same as these here.

[familyortiz]

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/familyortiz/

Hey. I'm having no luck inserting jpg's with the insert image feature, so I thought I'd send a link to my gallery.
Dang, you guys got some precise builds there! My Direct Box is more like a war wagon... heavy duty but with little style!  M.O.

just a note - these few builds are hand wired on protoboard that has a ground plane. The critical thing for me is to add the decoupling caps pretty much right between power pins and ground, i.e., CLOSE. Since I like to use flux for all solder joints, it's also essential to clean with flux remover and/or high purity alcohol.

[tombola]

Echo Base, built on Taylor's PCB. Great board, great circuit, really happy with how it all came out

Here's an audio sample: soundcloud link


Echo Base PT2399 Delay by Tom.Whitwell, on Flickr

[Taylor]

Yeah it's an FV-1, just got to learn how to program it now.

Ian, I'd be happy to help with your code if you post your experiments in the digital forum. I've done a lot of programming for this chip and it's the area in which I have the most to contribute to this forum.

Echo Base, built on Taylor's PCB. Great board, great circuit, really happy with how it all came out

Echo Base PT2399 Delay by Tom.Whitwell, on Flickr

Wow, really cool. It has the feel of vintage test equipment.

[John Lyons]

Yep, I use decals...or at least on that one. 

Really? But...the super deep pitting....How do you prevent any air bubbles, and make the wording so clean? I are confuzed.


Also, where do you get your shielded cable? It looks much more flexible seems easier to work with than the stuff I use, which is from Small Bear.

Decals are very thin, they conform to the texture. Make sure the decal is very wet and come off the backing readily.
Slide is on slow. Lightly squeegie out the bubbles/excess water with a soft cloth. If you have a stubborn bubble you can
poke gently with a razor knife, piercing the decal and letting the air out. Use lacquer for a top coat and under the decal.
Lacquer will dissolve the decal and make the edges an imperfection mostly invisible. Spray a few light coats over the decal.

The shielded wire is actually quite stiff. It's Teflon insulation silver coated wire.

[tombola]

Wow, really cool. It has the feel of vintage test equipment.

I was going for the look of Buchla synth modules... http://www.flickr.com/photos/adeneko/4105428066/ Still not enough knobs...

[Barcode80]

Yep, I use decals...or at least on that one. 

Really? But...the super deep pitting....How do you prevent any air bubbles, and make the wording so clean? I are confuzed.


Also, where do you get your shielded cable? It looks much more flexible seems easier to work with than the stuff I use, which is from Small Bear.

Decals are very thin, they conform to the texture. Make sure the decal is very wet and come off the backing readily.
Slide is on slow. Lightly squeegie out the bubbles/excess water with a soft cloth. If you have a stubborn bubble you can
poke gently with a razor knife, piercing the decal and letting the air out. Use lacquer for a top coat and under the decal.
Lacquer will dissolve the decal and make the edges an imperfection mostly invisible. Spray a few light coats over the decal.

The shielded wire is actually quite stiff. It's Teflon insulation silver coated wire.

Also, buy a small bottle of decal softener. It will soften the decals to conform to almost any surface.

[John Lyons]

Also, buy a small bottle of decal softener. It will soften the decals to conform to almost any surface.

True, I forgot about that stuff. I think it's diluted vinegar. Anyone know for sure?

[tskullt]

freakin' awesome John!
m.

[Barcode80]

Also, buy a small bottle of decal softener. It will soften the decals to conform to almost any surface.

True, I forgot about that stuff. I think it's diluted vinegar. Anyone know for sure?

It certainly smells like it.

[ambulancevoice]

holy crap John that is beautiful
if you sold pedals that looked like this all the time youd make a crapload of money, just cause people would love the boxes